UpDate: $400 8n/ Machine Work?

Fuddy Duddy

Well-known Member
As I said earlier, the guy I got the 8N from said it had a hole in a piston and that was when he parked it. I pulled the head off. No holes in any piston. Got a bad valve on the #3 cylinder. The engine was stuck. After soaking it in a mixture of Acetone and ATF for a week I got out there and started pounding on the pistons with a block of wood and hammer. I didn't take much and I noted the #3 sleeve was raising up. I keep on pounding now knowing it was moving. I was able to remove the sleeve once it got high enough. Sleeve are the thick ones, 0.090. Little bit of a wear ridge. But not to bad.
Any way, I plan to pull the engine and go thru it. I've never done a Flat Head. In the past I would take the engine apart and take everything to the machine shop and let them do their thing. O'course I would just give them the heads and they rebuild them. They would install new cam bushing. Do what ever needed to be done to the crank and cylinders and such. I would also just get the 'Kit' from them. That way they could get what was needed depending on what mains and rod bushing and such that would be needed to fit.
Question is, How much work do you get the machine shop to do? Just leave the valves and cam in and let them take care of it. Or maybe only take the Crank to them if it is needing turned and do ever thing else your self? I see they sell Rod Bearing 0.001 and 0.002 over. Use them if there is only a very little wear on the Crank? I've got Mikes and dial indicators and such.
The guy at the machine shop that I had do my Daughters '92Tempo told me he cut his teeth on "N"s. So I'm sure they would do a good job. They did on the Tempo.
Some of the Kits have every thing you need to do the valves. New valves, guides, springs, seals and new seats for the block. So now grinding wouldn't be necessary. The FO does show some Special tools needed.
Should I get the newer adjustable tappets? I'm guessing Yes to that question.

I know that's a lots of questions. But any help will be appreciated.
 
Not an expert, but when I did 9N 445 I completely disassembled the engine and took it to the machine shop. They ground the crank and surfaced the head. The also installed new rod bushings. I reassembled using new adjustable valves, new sleeves, pistons, and new oversize bearings. There is an great tutorial on assmebly of these engines on the other site by John Korshot.
 
I took a block in mainly to have it magnafluxed for cracks. milled the block and head and replaced the valve seats. I replaced all bearings, valves and guides and sleeves and pistons. crankshaft was in real good condition. I already had the adjustable lifters but would have replaced them if they were not adjustable. They are the only way to go.
 
New seats have to be ground/fit they are hard as ell let them do it....
Very few DIY'er know how to do valve work the right way are can tell when valve parts are worn out let the machine shop tell ya...
 
Machine shop guy looked at mine - said it was OK. There are no camshaft bearings - rides in the block.
 
When I rebuilt #849 I took the disassembled engine and a complete overhaul kit to an old school automotive machine shop that is owned by a friend of mine. He did all the work on it himself wouldn't let any body else touch it. When I got it back it was ready to go back in the tractor. Best money I ever spent!!
 

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