Limiter chains connected to the top link

tracman

Member
Gentlemen from your experience how do you feel about the strength at differental connection when chaining a brush hog with limiter chains? I imagine it should be strong enough but it looks like an awful amount of weight at that top point.
tracman
 
Tracman......welp, since you are supporting yer brushhog by the lower 3-point balls ...and... a wheel on yer brushhog, there is really NOT MUCH weight on yer diffy top-link when mowing. When lifting, different answer. And yes, continue to use yer limiter chains.

Make certain you have yer MANDATORY ORC (over running coupler) on yer PTO. And yes, you may haffta saw 6-in off'n BOTH yer PTO drive shafts. Don't worry, they're made to be sawed. .........Dell, yer ORC safety preacher
 
remember when you lift a hog up.. that 3rd link sees a pretty good amount of force too.

as for strength. plenty of guys use depth limit chains..

can you break something? sure? is it common.. not really.
 
Get one of my "Zane Thang" position / height control devices and you won't need chains. The lift will hold what you want where you want it.

See the link below.

Zane
ZANES LIFT STUFF
 
(quoted from post at 10:45:41 06/05/13) Tracman......welp, since you are supporting yer brushhog by the lower 3-point balls ...and... a wheel on yer brushhog, there is really NOT MUCH weight on yer diffy top-link when mowing. When lifting, different answer. And yes, continue to use yer limiter chains.

Make certain you have yer MANDATORY ORC (over running coupler) on yer PTO. And yes, you may haffta saw 6-in off'n BOTH yer PTO drive shafts.[b:8b29659402] [color=red:8b29659402]Don't worry, they're made to be sawed. [/color:8b29659402][/b:8b29659402].........Dell, yer ORC safety preacher

Maybe not so much...when I put the ORC on my PTO of course that made it longer. My drive shaft slides onto a square shaft on the gearbox side of the mower. This addition with the ORC put the end of that drive shaft at about an inch and a half away from bottoming out on that squared shaft.

I was going to cut off about three inches from the end of the drive shaft but discovered that the squared part that slips over the mower shaft is not that long. If I remember right, it's only about 6 inches. I figured that taking anything off would leave to less of shaft on that squared mower shaft.

In other words there would be so much of that square mower shaft stuck up into the drive shaft with not enough of the square part to hold it steady and keep it from vibrating and causing problems on down the road.

The only alternative I could see is cutting the drive shaft in the middle and removing around three inches. This would require some good welding and balancing to do it right.
 
Carry.......my advice still stands. Cut-off as much as you need so the 2-part PTO shaft will still fit on the MANDATORY OCR. It should be intuitively obvious sawing too much will cause the sliding PTO shafts to disconnect. I'm NOT THERE so you haffta to do yer own custom engineering. .......respectfully, Dell, yer ORC safety preacher
 
i tend to use limit chains on all my mowers. no guessing if it's mowing at the correct height.. no looking back.

lift to avoid obstacles. drop when passed. :)
 
(quoted from post at 07:32:11 06/06/13) i tend to use limit chains on all my mowers. no guessing if it's mowing at the correct height.. no looking back.

[b:aa20d79bb8][color=red:aa20d79bb8]lift to avoid obstacles. drop when passed.[/color:aa20d79bb8] [/b:aa20d79bb8] :)

I tend to use the sliding stop on the quadrant housing to do that.

Although the chains would tend to be more of a no fault fool proof thing.
 
i've had a sliding stop slip a bit.. plus not all my machines have a sliding stop. not all my machines have a conventional 3pt lift.. I do own other color tractors. ;)

I've also, (not mine) seen a lift stick due to dirty oil.

the chain method is just 100% fool proof.

true.. that a 3pt with all it's piece in place.. adjusted and operating at 100% is real close to fool proof. maybee 95%.. etc. that said. a couple foot of scrap chain and some scrap flat tabs that you can buzz and torch for free from the scrap pile is hardly worth a message post this long with people wringing their hands about it. I could have built a set of limit chains in the time it took me to punch this post in... anyone with a torch n welder and decent scrap pile could have. ;)
 
Yes, limiter chains are cheap, easy, set & forget, 100%, and I have those on one bush hog & tractor, but if you can find it, the pictured setup can't be beat! On my other. :)


or a home brew version:

 

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