Right Wheel Noise

B.Dodge

New User
Recently, my right wheel on my '41 9N makes a popping sound, once a rotation. What would cause that? Also, when it has been running for a while, the tractor will quit. Wait 30, it will start and then quit again. Any solutions?
 
at the moment it quits, check to see if you have spark at the plugs. if you have good spark, then pull the drain on the carb fuel bowl. should be able to get a steady stream of fuel. if not.. check for tank vacume.. and stuck float..e tc. you can rap a screwdriver handle onthe side of the carb and see if it make sit flow.

ont he popping sound, is it brake dependent? does it go away if you press the brake? how about if you pull the pedal up?

any oil leakage from that axle seal?

have you checked all lugnuts and rim to center bolts/nuts?

i'm not as familiar with that early hub and axle design.. but if none of hte other panned out..i'd be be checking the bearings.

jack her up and se eif there is considerable play. might be bearing pop.


post back.
 
Noticed the oiler filter was low, could be sediment in carb. I know I have fuel flow. Sometimes I forget to turn key on, try to start, and the carb overflows. Then when I turn key on, it starts, runs, then just quits.

The clunking noise is once a rotation. Yes, I have leakage. All nuts are secure for wheel.
 
BDodge........you ask......"when it has been running for a while, the tractor will quit. Wait 30, it will start and then quit again. Any solutions?".......
There are 4-common runtime issues with the weird 4-nipple frontmount 9N engine.
1) runs fer about 1-min and quits; restarts innna'bout 5-mins; BAD condenser; NOT yer problem
2) runs fer about 5-mins and quits; restarts innna'bout 5-mins; CLOGGED in tank fuel filter; NOT yer problem
4) runs fer about 1-hr and quits; restarts innn'about 4-hrs or overnite cooldown; BAD squarecan ignition coil; NOT yer problem as described, but could be depending about yer definition of "runs fer a while"
3) runs fer about 15-mins and quits; restarts innna'bout 30-mins; BAD weaksister ignition switch ($15, cheap) Most likely yer problem
........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
It will run for an hour then sound like it is running out of gas, power down and quit. I wait 30 minutes, it starts then after 10 minutes it will power down and quit. Fuel flow good and spark is good. I never had this issue before. It makes like it wants to run when I start it but it will not go.
 
B.Dodge........what does my item (4) say??? 1-hr run time. BAD squarecan ignition coil???

Once the internal insulative tar melts, it will ALWAYS melt and cause weak sparkies, just as you are complaining. Unfortunately, the squarecan ignition is NOT very robust.

Remember, ittza 2-bolt, 15-min job to replace/adjust the points (0.015") on the kitchen table. Just un-snapple yer capple and letter dangle and walk. Installation is a reversal of the removal ...except... finger start the 2-bolts. Install the rotor and rotate until the OFFSET tang drive fits the OFFSET camshaft slot. Now tighten the 2-bolts and re-snapple yer capple. Simple, eh?

Remember to "polish" the INVISIBLE corrosion from between the points (0.015") after installation. Me? I clamp a clean $1-bill between the points and pull. Iff'n yer really cheap, tear a strip from HEAVY brown paper grocery sack and use that. ........HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
Thank you. I now have information to work with. That's why I love this forum. I have gained so much knowledge in the last year on my tractor. Will let you all know the results.
 
(quoted from post at 12:37:56 06/05/13) Hi their, can you please tell me what are specs to set my points and condenser on my 1951 ford 8n tractor? thank you.

51 would make it a side mount.

If thats correct, points gap at .025.

Nothing to do with a condenser but install it.
 

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