Working on 8N Tomorrow

JCinKY

Member
Got a call to check it out tomorrow after work. No idea what I'm getting into, all I know is that it cranks but won't start. Previous help has just thrown parts at it.

Packed 100 lbs of junk to make sure I had everything. Probably over packed, but id rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it :lol:

Let me know if I forgot anything...bear with me.

Every hand tool I own; wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers etc
One complete front mount harness, half a side mount
Enough wire and terminals to make 2 complete :lol:
Complete used front mount dist kit
One running front mount dist
Side mounts points, but no condenser :(
New round can 6v coil
Battery cables
Meter & test light
Feeler gauges
Gasket material
Spare plugs w/ 1 extra test plug
Spare plug wires
2 partial carb kits
Complete repop carb

And on and on and on

...couldnt forget a crow bar, breaker bar, and BFH.

Jeff
 
I might have missed it, but jumper wire for the key switch and/or
to hot wire the ignition if it doesn't have power to the coil.
Contact cleaner and a burnisher to clean points maybe.
Let us know how it turns out!
 
They are very simple machines.
You need all the tools that were issued in the original tool kit. Plus a VOM and/or a test light. Not much more.

ntools2.jpg
 
Thanks for all the suggestions...

I'm will be picking up some ether and some carb cleaner on the way. I can always use it.

I packed plenty of wire and terminals to wire the whole thing twice.

Gotta get some gas though. Forgot the can this morning.

And yeah I know you basically got 4 Briggs engines stuck together, but with so little information, I don't wont to get there and have to go out. Funny how every time I head out to work on one the exact same stuff goes in the tool bag. Got it down pretty good and it keeps me organized.

Its only about 10 miles from the house, but about 45 min to the nearest parts store.
 
I've been working on a front distributor 8N for a week or so about two miles from my home. Wouldn't run. Replaced the coil and it would run but sputter etc. Removed the distributor and replaced the points and condenser. Chinese distributor plate and Chinese points and condenser. Hard to adjust the points as usual with this Chinese junk. Got them open to .010. Back together same. Pulled distributor and changed the condenser. Still sputtering. Took the carburetor off thinking it may be partially plugged up somewhhere. Cleaned everything. Had bad plastic venturi. Ordered new one and took the cleaned carbutetor back with bad venturi. Same thing. Had metal wire spark plug wires but real old and hard. Got new wires and installed them. Started up and ran good like it's supposed to. Bad wires I would not have really suspected being metal wire but they were clamped tightly together with wire ties and may have been swapping fire with adjoining wires.

Zane
 
here's a tip.

if it is a side dizzy, and you don't have a condensor handy for a side mount.. but do have a front mount condensor, and you think it's the condensor.

you can remove the side mount faulty one. assemble dizzy.

attach front mount condensor pigtail to feedthru post on side of dizzy, then ground body of condensor to chassis.

electrically it will be the same.. :)
 
(quoted from post at 05:27:50 06/05/13) here's a tip.

if it is a side dizzy, and you don't have a condensor handy for a side mount.. but do have a front mount condensor, and you think it's the condensor.

you can remove the side mount faulty one. assemble dizzy.

attach front mount condensor pigtail to feedthru post on side of dizzy, then ground body of condensor to chassis.

electrically it will be the same.. :)

Neat trick...

I've got one front mount condenser that I clipped the mounting tab off of to go inside a side mount. Condenser I got at Napa has a removable mounting tab (???).

I clipped off the tab, since it was 180 off from what I needed and slipped it into the side mount tab.

Its much simpler to do than the explanation. On that one it turned out the condenser wasn't bad after all, just out of time.

If it turns out that way hope he doesn't mind having a front mount condenser taped to the outside of his side mount for a few days. :lol:
 
(quoted from post at 06:42:30 06/05/13) but it will run.. :) ( if that was the issue.. )

Yes sir. I think he's got a few acres that he needs to bush hog.

One thing I can't forget while at work, is to print JMORs wiring diagrams. I've only done 2 12v conversions and all my stuff is still 6v.
 
12v is pretty easy.

in general.. most o fthe N wireing stays put.. and you can retask a few wires that were for the vreg and genny.

for instance.

ignition and headlamp and starter wiring remains unchanged * ( add 12v lamps.. and add correct coil, and if need be, resistor inline. )

for the alt to genny swap.

line going to armature goes to charge stud. at reg. connect bat and arm wires and remove reg.

run the field wire to the #1 on the alt on one side.. and on the other side.. run it to a 194 lamp then to the key switch.

jump #2 to charge stud.


that's pretty much it...
 
Welp...got the old girl going. Much to my surprise, I met an old Pakistani guy at the end of the drive. He turned 70 today.

Got the call from his son. Perfect English, actually spoke three languages, and a necessary interpreter.

It was a 9/2N for sure. From what I could make out of the SN, 9N 2135..... It had the cast, one piece column. So I lucked out with all my front mount stuff. And yes... I packed too much.

Had a hacked together 12V job, 3 wire. Pretty sure they ran the field wire with old lamp cord. New batt cables, swapped in my good dist with his new coil, 6v. Took carb apart and hosed it out with cleaner. Ran new wire to coil. Cranked and fired right up.
 
Continued from above. Smart phones suck.

It actually hadn't ran for 3 years and had no oil pressure. Good suction from carb throat and no smoke. Going back Saturday with his rebuilt distributor, new gas line, and to prime the pump.

Left plenty of MMO in the cylinders when I left. Probably get it charging too.

Here's my question...not that I'm concerned about liability, his machine do what you want, but how far do I go with safety?

I made it blatantly clear in the danger of not using the oem start button several times. Explained not to run it till I get it some oil pressure and put in the additional resistor for his 6v coil.

I've done a few and made sure they were right. But if they don't want to pay for it, I ain't doin it.
 

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