Position Control

I'm working on a '48 8n. The lift is giving me some trouble. Draft control is fine,now that I adjusted it to get about 2 inches on the control. On position control, the lowest position holds the box blade 4-5 inches off the ground. When adjusting to get draft control right, I had to slide it all the way forward. Before that, position was even higher. Any thoughts? I'm thinking something bent.
 
(quoted from post at 16:28:57 05/12/13) I'm working on a '48 8n. The lift is giving me some trouble. Draft control is fine,now that I adjusted it to get about 2 inches on the control. On position control, the lowest position holds the box blade 4-5 inches off the ground. When adjusting to get draft control right, I had to slide it all the way forward. Before that, position was even higher. Any thoughts? I'm thinking something bent.
ent, worn, maladjusted? Sounds like you have been adjusting only the quadrant(4 slotted holes). There are two other adjustments under the lift cover.
 
you have to have the lift cover off to fully evaluate the lift linkages.. control rod and cam folower pin and cam surface.
 
I guess I'll pull the top. Anything to look out for? I drove this tractor a few years ago. The lift was out of wack then. draft control had full range on the control, and at the top of the control.it kind of sounded like it wanted to keep lifting. adjusting the quadrant fixed that,and lowered the overall position,but still too high on position control.
 
I'm assuming that you adjusted the quadrant mounting by loosening the four bolts and moving the mount back??????

When the lift position comes to the point where the draft mode comes into effect that is as far as the position mode is going to respond because it is now in contact with the draft setting.

Took me years to figure that one out.

Zane
 
(quoted from post at 10:41:51 05/13/13) I'm assuming that you adjusted the quadrant mounting by loosening the four bolts and moving the mount back??????

When the lift position comes to the point where the draft mode comes into effect that is as far as the position mode is going to respond because it is now in contact with the draft setting.

Took me years to figure that one out.

Zane

That's what's got me. With it moved back,the whole works was way too high. When I went all the way forward, the draft came in at about the last couple of inches, and didn't want to keep lifting at the top of the lift. Seems almost backwards, unless I'm seeing it wrong. Now it seems right,but the lowest posision on position is about 5" too high.
 
(quoted from post at 12:23:54 05/13/13)
(quoted from post at 10:41:51 05/13/13) I'm assuming that you adjusted the quadrant mounting by loosening the four bolts and moving the mount back??????

When the lift position comes to the point where the draft mode comes into effect that is as far as the position mode is going to respond because it is now in contact with the draft setting.

Took me years to figure that one out.

Zane
That's what's got me. With it moved back,the whole works was way too high. When I went all the way forward, the draft came in at about the last couple of inches, and didn't want to keep lifting at the top of the lift. Seems almost backwards, unless I'm seeing it wrong. Now it seems right,but the lowest posision on position is about 5" too high.
ery confusing wording. You make reference to 'too high', 'last couple of inches', 5" too high', etc. Need to be able to know what each is in reference to......the Touch Control lever, the lift arms, the lift links, or exactly what, in each case.
 
(quoted from post at 14:52:54 05/13/13)
(quoted from post at 12:23:54 05/13/13)
(quoted from post at 10:41:51 05/13/13) I'm assuming that you adjusted the quadrant mounting by loosening the four bolts and moving the mount back??????

When the lift position comes to the point where the draft mode comes into effect that is as far as the position mode is going to respond because it is now in contact with the draft setting.

Took me years to figure that one out.

Zane
That's what's got me. With it moved back,the whole works was way too high. When I went all the way forward, the draft came in at about the last couple of inches, and didn't want to keep lifting at the top of the lift. Seems almost backwards, unless I'm seeing it wrong. Now it seems right,but the lowest posision on position is about 5" too high.
ery confusing wording. You make reference to 'too high', 'last couple of inches', 5" too high', etc. Need to be able to know what each is in reference to......the Touch Control lever, the lift arms, the lift links, or exactly what, in each case.

Ok. When I started, with the lever set to draft, I had movement of the lift arms as soon as I moved the control as if it were set to position control. There was no control of the position in this setting,but the lift arms would stop on the way up and go back down if I moved the control to lower them. I could almost get them to stop in positions,as you can by kind of feathering the control. If I moved the control all the way up, the arms would raise, what looked like too high compared to my others, and would act as if it was trying to raise them even higher,as in I could hear the pump laboring. Moving the quadrant position back made it worse. I didn't even have to raise the control to the top, to get it to go too high,and try to go farther. By the time I adjusted the quadrant all the way forward in small increments, (sp?)testing each time, I got the draft control to only work in the last 2 inches of movement of the control lever, and stop at a reasonable height, without continuing to labor the pump. So all seems good on the draft.
On position control,my control lever all the way down, it holds a box blade about 5" off the ground. Metal to metal solid holding. Positions change higher as they should as I raise and loweras I lower the control, but stops dead with the lower lift arms holding my blade off the ground 5-6".
 
(quoted from post at 15:16:56 05/13/13)
(quoted from post at 14:52:54 05/13/13)
(quoted from post at 12:23:54 05/13/13)
(quoted from post at 10:41:51 05/13/13) I'm assuming that you adjusted the quadrant mounting by loosening the four bolts and moving the mount back??????

When the lift position comes to the point where the draft mode comes into effect that is as far as the position mode is going to respond because it is now in contact with the draft setting.

Took me years to figure that one out.

Zane
That's what's got me. With it moved back,the whole works was way too high. When I went all the way forward, the draft came in at about the last couple of inches, and didn't want to keep lifting at the top of the lift. Seems almost backwards, unless I'm seeing it wrong. Now it seems right,but the lowest posision on position is about 5" too high.
ery confusing wording. You make reference to 'too high', 'last couple of inches', 5" too high', etc. Need to be able to know what each is in reference to......the Touch Control lever, the lift arms, the lift links, or exactly what, in each case.

Ok. When I started, with the lever set to draft, I had movement of the lift arms as soon as I moved the control as if it were set to position control. There was no control of the position in this setting,but the lift arms would stop on the way up and go back down if I moved the control to lower them. I could almost get them to stop in positions,as you can by kind of feathering the control. If I moved the control all the way up, the arms would raise, what looked like too high compared to my others, and would act as if it was trying to raise them even higher,as in I could hear the pump laboring. Moving the quadrant position back made it worse. I didn't even have to raise the control to the top, to get it to go too high,and try to go farther. By the time I adjusted the quadrant all the way forward in small increments, (sp?)testing each time, I got the draft control to only work in the last 2 inches of movement of the control lever, and stop at a reasonable height, without continuing to labor the pump. So all seems good on the draft.
On position control,my control lever all the way down, it holds a box blade about 5" off the ground. Metal to metal solid holding. Positions change higher as they should as I raise and loweras I lower the control, but c.
hen it"stops dead with the lower lift arms holding my blade off the ground 5-6", 1) if you flip the small lever to Draft at this time, what happens at lift arms? (touch control still fully down). 2) If left 5" up (as far down as you can get it) overnight, is it still holding that 5" the next day? 3) On level surface & lowered as much as possible, then measure & report the distance from flat surface up to Lift Link ball/socket/pin center line.
 
When I switch to draft with it lowered as far as it goes, it eases on down. With it parked as far down as it goes in position,it will bleed off an be dropped in the morning., actually probably in an hour. I guessed that was bleedoff. When I lower it to the lowest position, the center of the ball socket where they attach to an implement is 21"
 
(quoted from post at 20:01:10 05/13/13) When I switch to draft with it lowered as far as it goes, it eases on down. With it parked as far down as it goes in position,it will bleed off an be dropped in the morning., actually probably in an hour. I guessed that was bleedoff. When I lower it to the lowest position, the center of the ball socket where they attach to an implement is 21"
K, the observance that it will bleed on down shows that it is not a hard metallic stop.....so we are back to hydraulic valve operation/position. 21 inches is far off the mark. When you switch to draft and it drops on down shows that the position control adjustment/wear is a problem. It would be normal to drop an additional ~ 3 inches but no where close to (21-6) or ~ 15. Eventually the top cover will need to come off to inspect/observe/adjust/repair. If you want to learn a bit more first, you can pull the right side round port with dipstick & reach in an pull control arm toward rear & very likely see the arms drop. This will tell you that if you can move the valves, then it is operational and you need to focus on linkage. By the way op manual says 8 1/2 to 34 1/4 is range of travel.
 
Thanks for the info. I usually just tear into things and figure them out, but have alot of irons in the fire, and too many to think about at one time.. I guess the top will come off. I was really just looking to get enough info to reduce the number of times I had to have it off and back in. The draft control isn't as important on this one as position, so I'll have to tear into it. Is the 8 1/2 -34 1/2'' normal range on both settings? Topping off this, I found a piece of a part in the bottom of a container of drained hydraulic oil. Worse than that it contained oil from 3 different tractors, including this one. It doesn't get any better than this :roll: I'll post a picture in a new thread.
 
(quoted from post at 20:37:08 05/13/13) Thanks for the info. I usually just tear into things and figure them out, but have alot of irons in the fire, and too many to think about at one time.. I guess the top will come off. I was really just looking to get enough info to reduce the number of times I had to have it off and back in. The draft control isn't as important on this one as position, so I'll have to tear into it. Is the 8 1/2 -34 1/2'' normal range on both settings?
he way I read it, there will be about 3 inches less travel in Posn than Draft.
 
8N FORD TRACTOR LIFT ADJUSTING JIG AND BOOKLET FOR ADJUSTMENT

This is something that has been needed for years. It is not an original idea for me. I used to be a mechanic and parts man in a small dealership in Talladega AL. and used such a jig to adjust the 8N lifts. The jig that was supplied to every Ford dealership was cast aluminum and I suppose that most or all of them have been lost or broken over the years because nobody can lay hands on one. I just made up my mind to resurrect the knowledge and so the booklet that I have compiled and the jig I have fabricated by actually repairing and adjusting an 8N lift and fitting the jig so it can be done in a more practical way. What the jig does is give a hard fixed point to adjust the linkage to.
I am going to charge a total of $65.00for the pamphlet with illustrations and text instructions for adjusting the lift along with the jig and a new cam follower pin. This price includes the shipping in the USA. If sold outside the US the shipping is more and I will state it for the destination. Usually about $10.00 more to other countries, but more in some.

Adjustment alone will not fix a system that has excessive internal hydraulic oil leakage. If the lift will not hold a load for more than a couple of minutes you should repair the lift while the cover is off for adjustment. Such things as replacing the pressure relief valve and the piston rings on the ram cylinder piston etc.

Total is 65.00

PRICE OUT OF LOWER 48 IS $75.

Send a personal check and it I will ship when it clears the bank
Send a Money order and I will ship the next working day.

I now accept PayPal too. Email [email protected]

Send to—
Zane Sherman
2824 Renfroe Road
Talladega Al. 35160
256 268 2327
 
Zane I have an original, if I can be any help. Here is a picture of it and one for the NAA and 600's
a115391.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 01:03:56 05/14/13) 8N FORD TRACTOR LIFT ADJUSTING JIG AND BOOKLET FOR ADJUSTMENT

This is something that has been needed for years. It is not an original idea for me. I used to be a mechanic and parts man in a small dealership in Talladega AL. and used such a jig to adjust the 8N lifts. The jig that was supplied to every Ford dealership was cast aluminum and I suppose that most or all of them have been lost or broken over the years because nobody can lay hands on one. I just made up my mind to resurrect the knowledge and so the booklet that I have compiled and the jig I have fabricated by actually repairing and adjusting an 8N lift and fitting the jig so it can be done in a more practical way. What the jig does is give a hard fixed point to adjust the linkage to.
I am going to charge a total of $65.00for the pamphlet with illustrations and text instructions for adjusting the lift along with the jig and a new cam follower pin. This price includes the shipping in the USA. If sold outside the US the shipping is more and I will state it for the destination. Usually about $10.00 more to other countries, but more in some.

Adjustment alone will not fix a system that has excessive internal hydraulic oil leakage. If the lift will not hold a load for more than a couple of minutes you should repair the lift while the cover is off for adjustment. Such things as replacing the pressure relief valve and the piston rings on the ram cylinder piston etc.

Total is 65.00

PRICE OUT OF LOWER 48 IS $75.

Send a personal check and it I will ship when it clears the bank
Send a Money order and I will ship the next working day.

I now accept PayPal too. Email [email protected]

Send to—
Zane Sherman
2824 Renfroe Road
Talladega Al. 35160
256 268 2327

I'll have to have one of those I guess. This tractor is a deer lease tractor, and only gets used a couple of times a year. I'd be satisfied to get a lower position, and make it usable. On the other hand, I've rebuilt the motor, spindles, axle pin, alternator,rear axle seals, pto seal, carb, pretty much everything. I guess it deserves the finishing touch. Have more in line and still looking, but some are 9s and 2s, and all they really need to do is go up and down.
 
On second thought I'm going to play with it til I get it, and be making my own jig in the process or when done. Forums suck. I'm guessing 10 times this has been read by someone who could tell me how to get a lower position. I'm not going to beg. I'll tune on it even if I have to pull and replace the lift cover dozens of times. That,or I'll swap lift covers and various part from 1 or all of 5 others til it lowers.Don't give a rat's rectum if it's correct. I just want it to be usable.Won't be back.
 
That is the first original 8N lift jig I've seen since I quit the dealership in 1967,

Mine is fabricated from steel so it doen's break quit as easy as the aluminum ones did.

That is great!

I never did see the ones for the later models like you have????

We did it with a feeler gauge at the control valve and I fabricate those too with my lift adjusting kits.


Zane
 
(quoted from post at 21:40:55 05/14/13) That is the first original 8N lift jig I've seen since I quit the dealership in 1967,

Mine is fabricated from steel so it doen's break quit as easy as the aluminum ones did.

That is great!

I never did see the ones for the later models like you have????

We did it with a feeler gauge at the control valve and I fabricate those too with my lift adjusting kits.


Zane
ey, Zane.........that factory jig has a hole & two notches in top......why does yours have only one? What other for?
 
I was having this problem, or very similar. This was even after I removed the follower pin turned it around reinserted it. I also nickel welded the cam surface (a little at a time, allowing to cool after each weld.) I then slowly smoothed it with a file and dremel tool. Using the wear area on the cam surface as reference for full up and down poition, checking draft spring length,etc. After all that, my low position was too high. The control rod inside was bent a little. I guesstimated the amount, and tweeked it a little. I had to adjust on the quadrant a little,but the machine is working great, and has been for many years. The draft comes down a little too low, but will not with a plow attached. The lowest position is a little too high, but lower arms will lower, 4 or 5 inces lower than I will ever need them, unless I want to brush hog 8 or 10 inches under ground. None of this is covered in the manual. Hope this helps you and anyone else who is not interested in restoration, but making things work in a pinch.
 

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