Battery on 8n not charging

I have a Ford 8n that has been converted to 12 volt. I have a 12 volt coil with an inline ballast resistor. The ballast resistor is inline to wire to top of coil. I have a one wire alternator. I have a jumper from port 2 to the battery post on the alternator from there to solenoid. What was working now is not. My battery is not charging. Please any ideas will be much appreciated. I took my alternator to an alternator place and they said it was fine, but recently I fried my coil due to bad ballast resistor. Please see my attached album on my connection and setup. If I charge my battery with my battery charger tractor cranks right up and runs fine till battery dies from cranking.

photos below of my setup.

https://plus.google.com/photos/1143...799396865751073?authkey=Gv1sRgCNeL_7ixipfazAE
 
if it truly is a 1 wirte job.. then you need a wire from the charge stud to some location that finds the battery hot... usually by way of ammeter, then hot solenoid post.

jumping bat stud to #2 is fine. if you want to see if it runs like a 3 wire.. run a wire from the key switch thru a 194 lamp to the #1 post...
 

I have an ACC connection on my ignition switch. Can I use that to excite the alternator? To excite would I turn to acc than back to ignition setting? Currently my one wire goes to the pos. battery side of solenoid
 
If you hook to the acc on your switch, you should be fine if it's a regular 3 wire. You won'y need to turn it to acc to excite it. Accessory is hot along with the ignition when you turn on the key. That's how I Always do it. Even worked on my Volvo 122.
 

Ty for the reply. I will give it a try. This then would eliminate my need to rev my engine to high rpms (which I don't want to do). This then would connect to the no. 1 terminal on my alternator correct?
 
Wirewound resistors fail open never change value.The rivet connections on the old Ford do get poor conections but that makes the resistance increase.
 
iff accy is hot when ignition is on, and goes cold when ign is off, it would work. i generally still like a lamp or small resistor in line to limit current on the #1 circuit, though, as if the charge line comes off.. the alt will try to charge thru the #1 line and burn up the printed traces around 4a..e tc.
 
Ty for the reply what type of resistor? or I have seen were some use a zener diode. Which is better and of what value?

Instead of a resistor could I use a 12 volt dash light? If so what is the best one? I already have a hole where someone had once had the ignition switch. Not sure I would want a dash light that only lights if my alternator fails. I'd like a dash light so I can see dash at night.
 
i'd go with a red lensed marker lamp for the light.. not a resistor.. and certaintly not a zenir diode. that's asking for trouble. a REGULAR diode.. sure.. but not a made-to-avalanch zenir.

if you want a dash light.. get a dash light.

for the lamp inline with the alt #1 a 168 or 194 will work fine.

for a diode.. a 1n5408 will be mor ethan fine.. and radio shack 276-1661 and 276-1141 are ok. in practice.. and 50piv/1a diode will work.. but 200piv and 3a is way superior.

the diode will have a marked side. the marked side goes toward the alt.

strian relif it or it will break the leads off the case.
 
usually easiest.. side benefit of an idiot lamp too.

just get one with 2 wire pigtail.. not frame grounded.
 

Well I have the 194 lamp installed inline from the number one terminal on alternator and to the acc. connection at switch. It operates as you said it would. Light goes out when tractor starts.
 
good deal.

and now if you see that lamp come on while running.. you know you have a fualt int he charge system.

post back if you hit any snags.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top