8 N Sleeve replacemant

My question is: what is the most common sleeve retainer to use when replacing the sleeves. I have read so many stories that i am totally confused on it.
So, I need somebody that has done this before and knows what they are doing to tell me what is best. I understand that you are supposed to coat the bottom 1/3 of the cylinder wall with it. So how much really stays on the wall as you drive the sleeve in? Seems to me it would just scrape it off as the sleeve goes down?
Also, i was told that Loctite Threadlocker is the same stuff as sleeve retainer, is that true??

If the sleeves are tight force fit like they are supposed to be nothing is needed to retain them.

Way back before all the good new stuff was on the market I've used two part epoxy to glue one or two in that had the cylinder walls caved in by a shade tree mechainic trying to get the sleeves out with a screwdriver and hammer.

Zane

loctite 290 was called bearing and sleeve retainer and weld sealant back in the 70s sometime in the late 80s or early 90s the name changed to thread lock, a good feature of 290 is its wicking ability, it can be applied to an assembled nut and bolt and will wick into the threads.It should work fine for sleeves.

The bore should be .0005 to .001 smaller than the sleeves. Any time you put anything in to seal or lock them, they don't transfer the heat as well and wear faster.

(quoted from post at 08:53:23 05/06/13) I understand that you are supposed to coat the bottom 1/3 of the cylinder wall with it. So how much really stays on the wall as you drive the sleeve in? Seems to me it would just scrape it off as the sleeve goes down?

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It fills any gap it finds and if they are loose there are gaps to be found.

(quoted from post at 08:53:23 05/06/13)Also, i was told that Loctite Threadlocker is the same stuff as sleeve retainer, is that true??

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No. There are number of different Loctite thread and sleeve retaining compounds and they have different performance characteristics: cure rate, gap fill limit, shear strength, max temperature, chemical/solvent resistance, activator/primer requirements, ease of disassembly, etc. For example Loctite 641 has a shear strength of 940 PSI and maximum gap fill of .2 mm, Loctite 609 has more than double the shear strength at 2300 PSI, and Loctite 660 has a shear strength of 2400 PSI and a maximum gap fill of .5 mm.

(quoted from post at 08:53:23 05/06/13)My question is: what is the most common sleeve retainer to use when replacing the sleeves.

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I prefer Loctite 620. It is a high shear strength (2,500 PSI)/high temperature (230C) compound. Maximum gap fill is .2 mm (.008"). I have used it on "slip fit" sleeves and it works well - almost too well. Once it cures you won't get the sleeve back out without a LOT of heat or a boring bar. If you have a really sloppy fit it isn't going to work as well and you might consider something with a greater gap fill. You can find the technical data sheets for all of the various products on the Loctite web site.

TOH

The instructions that came with my new (and dimensionally mated) pistons & sleeves state to use "Glycerine" or "Stoddard Solvent" or "Other light sealing lubricant" between the sleeve and the cylinder block bore.
This goes against some posts/comments elsewhere to use use engine oil since the recommended chemicals are essentially mineral spirits (from web research I conducted).
That said, I will try freezing (or at least cooling) one sleeve to see if that really reduces the OD to ease installation. If, after ambient temp stabilizes, I find the sleeve is loose - I would consider the high-temp Locktite; but only toward the bottom 1/3 of sleeve OD.
I have a couple of days before I do this: Any objections/comments from other users to this approach?

(quoted from post at 22:40:38 06/03/13) The instructions that came with my new (and dimensionally mated) pistons & sleeves state to use "Glycerine" or "Stoddard Solvent" or "Other light sealing lubricant" between the sleeve and the cylinder block bore.
This goes against some posts/comments elsewhere to use use engine oil since the recommended chemicals are essentially mineral spirits (from web research I conducted).
That said, I will try freezing (or at least cooling) one sleeve to see if that really reduces the OD to ease installation. If, after ambient temp stabilizes, I find the sleeve is loose - I would consider the high-temp Locktite; but only toward the bottom 1/3 of sleeve OD.
I have a couple of days before I do this: Any objections/comments from other users to this approach?

Click to expand...

There is no need to us any sort of sleeve retainer on properly mated sleeves. If you do you will simply make life miserable for the poor SOB that has to replace them the next time - and that might well be you.

TOH

Ok. Will go clean and dry for sleeve installation...