Soundguy's Hyd.Super Douche

Onetime I read a post for cleaning and flushing the hyd. system. I think it was written by Soundguy. I sure wish I had I had it now. It was saved in my old computer but lost with a fried mother-board.
 
I assume we are talking about an N. I use kerosene. If it is really dirty with a lot of sludge, the only way to really clean it is to drop the pump and scrape it out.
 
I'm having trouble getting lift to go down so I thought flushing it out would be a good place to start. Someone,I think Soundguy, posted a mix for flushing the system. It probabley won't fix it but might be cleaner to take apart.
 
you probbaly read one i mixed up for the later machines when I was cleaning a sump..

a mix of diesel, or mineral spirits, or kerosene, + atf, + rubbing alcohol.

this is a good way to flush a sump of loose debris and de-water it.

in an N.. you hav ethe issue where there is likely a cabe of solid debris on the bottom of the sump.. and manual cleaning would really be best.. though it it's ok / clean and wet.. the above mix will help dewater it.
 
Thanks, but how much of each ingredient? As I remember you said to drive it around for 15 minutes. Do I need to drain the hyd. fluid or is this added to the fluid? Thanks again.
 
You can get the pump gasket in wrong and end up with no pressure.Had to fix an 9N with that problem.I would not run the hydraulic system with kerosene or diesel in it.
 
Systems with 90 mineral oil get very stiff in cold weather.Do not add any witches brew to the hydraulic oil.
 
you may want to ignore 36's comments. he know's not of what he speaks.

it's COMMON to use a product to dewater a hyds or trans sump.

if you can pay the big $$ for commercial products.. seafoam makes a product called transtune that is for dewatering hydraulic and tranny sumps.

it relies on science.. not witchcraft that 36 must be familiar with.

here's the science:

you have water in a sump.. some of it will remain liquid water.. some of it will be emulsified.. some of that emulsion may even makie it to a stabilized emulsion and not settle out.

alcohol is a polar solvent.

water is polar.

adding alcohol to a wet hyds sump will allow the alcohol to disolve the water. Once it is disolved you have 2 things going for you.

1, it's easier to drain much of it out as it is now is 'soloution' and not suspension, plus, any that does not get drained out, is now EASIER to flash off. The alcohol and disolved water form what is called a aveotrope. the azeotrope has flash off properties lower than both constituants.. meaning water flashes off well, now.

adding the other components, like diesel or mineral spirits is done as they are a petro solvent and will thin the oil in the sump so that it will drain fastr and have less residue stuck tot he sides of the walls. also.. any thick emulsion should start disolving, again.. an aid to draining. ATF is full of detergents.. IE.. suspension agents.

all this is working towards the goal of getting stuff out of your sump.

that's the entire point of this.

soundguy
 
You did a lot of typing but said nothing.Hydraulic oil with water in it has to be dumped.Oil pumps can mix oil and water.Put the wrong hydraulic oil in a system and get trouble.Add other fluids that dilute the hydraulic oil,ruin pumps.Hydraulic fluids are a complex subject.My small wood splitter uses A36 or dexron or hydraulic jack oil but the manual says never mix the fluids.We had 8 barrels of different hydraulic oil at the JD dealer I worked for in the 50s.The night crew put the wrong oil in a new back hoe.All control valves were stuck tight.
 

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