Question(s) for Dell (WA) regarding 20/20 Pai...

Dell: I read your archived post about the "20/20" Brush/Roller Paint Job, which I plan to do on my Fergy TO-20.

I don"t have the facilities, equipment, ability or desire to spray with automotive paint, as I don"t need that kind of end result for a Workin" Tractor.

Question(s): 1. For the rolled paint on the sheet metal, do you figure on just one coat? Same for brush on castings?

2. Do you prime over old, but sound paint on sheet metal/castings, or just areas that are down to bare metal after sanding/cleaning?

Can you use brushed/rolled primer, too? Does it need to be sanded, before applying the topcoat?

3. I know your instructions call for acrylic automotive enamel, but I"m planning to use VanSickle alkyd enamel, with hardener, mainly because they have the Ferguson color in stock at my local farm supply store.

Thanks.
 
Why not use a rattle can to do the paint job. A rattle can will take a lot less work and the paint job comes out a whole lot better then a brush or roller. Now if you where close to me I have all the tools you need for a good but still 20 foot job. As in looks good till you get up 20 foot from it then you see the old paint lines etc.
 
The more time you spend smoothing and sanding, the better it will look. I've never used a roller on sheet metal, but I would only do one coat at a time. Multiple thin coats are better than one thick one whatever technique you use.
 
If you go the 'rattle can' method. I reccomend spending the $3 on the handle that effectively(sp?) turns the can into a spray gun - saves wear and tear on your index finger(s). I have had GOOD results with the 'can'. HTH
 

One rolled coat should cover . If your paint is too thin you may get air bubbles , too thick and it may be "lumpy" . A short nap roller would work better .

Test a spot and if you don't like it , wipe it off with a thinner rag , let dry and try again .

Basically paint sticks better to paint . Paint doesn't stick well to metal so primer is used . You only need to prime the bare spots .

Brushing/rolling primer is OK , just make sure it has fully cured before applying paint or you could mechanically mix the two . I have seen red primer and white paint turn to a light pink top coat .

Alkyd w/ hardener would be good for a DIY working tractor .

I use "Paso" or a liquid sander which removes oil , grease , dirt and softens the old paint so the new paint can stick . Just wet a rag and wipe . Keep refolding your rag and change when it gets dirty .

Cast iron doesn't need sanded before priming but smooth metal could use a little roughing up to help the primer stick . Cast iron needs the pores to be free of oils , use soapy water , thinner , or liquid sander .
 

iIf you are OK with plenty of edges of old paint being softened and curled up by new paint, you don't need to prime over existing paint. Over on the paint and body work forum there are a bunch of guys that really know the whys and why nots of painting, weather it is for work or show.
 
Tom........alotta yer questions have been answered.
1-coat with short nap roller paint
brush bare metal with primer paint

Nice thing about hardener, it actually acts to smooth the paint. Some claim hardener is BAD for the nose and lungs. Using SPRAY gun will certainly vaporize the paint and you will breath that toxic stuff. Howsomevers; roller does NOT vaporize the paint. Me? I would NOT worry about it as I would be roll painting sheet metal OUTDOORS. ..........Dell
 
(quoted from post at 12:57:03 04/29/13) Dell: I read your archived post about the "20/20" Brush/Roller Paint Job, which I plan to do on my Fergy TO-20.

I don"t have the facilities, equipment, ability or desire to spray with automotive paint, as I don"t need that kind of end result for a Workin" Tractor.

Question(s): 1. For the rolled paint on the sheet metal, do you figure on just one coat? Same for brush on castings?

2. Do you prime over old, but sound paint on sheet metal/castings, or just areas that are down to bare metal after sanding/cleaning?

Can you use brushed/rolled primer, too? Does it need to be sanded, before applying the topcoat?

3. I know your instructions call for acrylic automotive enamel, but I"m planning to use VanSickle alkyd enamel, with hardener, mainly because they have the Ferguson color in stock at my local farm supply store.

Thanks.

I brushed on the red and when it became "tacky" I oversprayed to remove the brush marks..I sprayed the sheet metal..Works for me!!
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Thanks for the tips, everyone - you all had some very helpful ideas, and I appreciate it.

I"ll post a few pictures over in the Fergy forum, once I get started.
 
One more question: how much paint and hardener will I need?

Orscheln"s has VanSickle paint on sale in a couple of days, so it"s a good time to buy. (A buck off spray cans and quarts, and a pint of hardener is $13, which is less than half their usual price!)
 

Whut Ken said,,, The trick is to have a rattle can paint (that matches) to fog over the brush/roller job... That's why I like CNH paint their rattle can paint is a dead match for their bulk paint... TISCO paint is also the same bulk can are rattle can its all the same color...

A rattle can job alone will never match are hold up to a "20/20" Brush/Roller Paint Job done right...
 

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