Cintuned Probelms with 2N No Start

wsmm

Member
Got back to working on my troublesome 2N again today. Put in new points and checked the timing on the distributor, checked okay. Still low compression on #2 cylinder, even after putting in ATF fluid and letting it soak for a couple of days. Turned the engine over to make sure no ATF was left in cylinder. Checked the spark, nice blue/white spark, jumped a 1/4" gap on test plug. Tried starting no go. Would not even start with a little shot of starting fluid. Placed hand over carb intake and there was suction. After cranking a few more times I had gas flow out of the carb intake. Can someone advise what the float setting should be? Pulled two of the plugs, #4 & #4 they were dry. It looks like gas may not be getting from the carb to the engine. I'm at a loss at this point. If I can't get it running soon I may just try to get rid of it. I might add that the tractor sat for about 6 or 7 months and was only started twice. I posted two or three issues while I have been trying to resolve this problem. Want to get a new exhaust/intake manifold as I've got an exhaust leak at #4 cylinder. Thanks in advance for any and all help. Also anyone know of a good 2N person in Arenac County, Mi. About 35 miles north of Bay City Mi.

[b:b161551af9]Problem seems to be with gas not getting into the cylinders. Fuel does get to carb. Plugs when pulled seem to be dry, no fuel present. Does not even fire with starting fluid. Can feel a vacuum if I hold my hand over the carb intake while cranking.[/b:b161551af9]
 
Just turn off the gas, put in fresh plugs, and use only starting fluid to try to start. Raw gas leaves deposits that foul plugs....then it won't start until you swap them out.
 
wsmm.........uh? you do know yer #4 exhaust leak has 'nuttin' to do with engine not starting, don't you?

While ATF is good stuff and will "un-stick" stuck piston rings, you do know iff'n either the intake valve ...or... the exhaust valve fer #2-cylinder are stuck OPEN, guess what??? NO COMPRESSION. The N-Engine is very good, it will generally start on just 3-cylinders, just need sparkies at the correct cylinder at the correct time. Many neubie shadetree mechanics miss-plug the weird 4-nipple frontmount dizzy sparkie wires. Firing order is 1,2,4,3 CCW. Suprizingly enuff the 4-nipple capple has MOLDED sparkie numbers, just plug as numbered. #1 sparkie is next to radiator. Simple, eh?

It is very eazy to FLOOD yer M/S carb, so ennytime you have starting issues, replace yer sparkies. NO ARGUE!!! Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025". Don't throw yer FLOODED sparkies away, just clean'n'dry them one-atta-time in HOT running engine; and save'um fer the next time. (and there will be a next time)

You ask what the float setting should be? Would you believe 1/4"??? (I use a 1/4" drill) .........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 

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