Starter Solenoid Problem 1952 Ford 8N 6 volt Pos Ground

The solenoid negative cable lug threads on my 8N was stripped, wouldn’t tighten, had to jiggle it sometimes to start the tractor. Finally wouldn"t energize at all so I changed the solenoid with a new 8N11450 from YT. (Small terminal facing the engine). Had a brain fart and cracked the plastic housing on the first replacement solenoid when I tweaked the nut without the backer wrench, tested it anyway – starter turned instantly when I touch the negative battery cable to the battery if I connect the yellow lead from the wire harness to the battery lug on the solenoid. Replaced the solenoid again (without the cracking part). Same thing happens when I touch the cable to the battery. Disconnected the starter switch and same results, starter turns engine when the yellow wire from the (?) ammeter I guess is connected.
In other words, I wire the new plastic solenoid in just like the original steel housed solenoid Henry put on it, and the starter spins when I touch the negative cable to the battery post. I disconnect the wire from the starter switch on the tranny, and the starter still turns when I touch the battery lead.
If I take the yellow wire off of the starter solenoid battery lug,(switch wire disconnected) the starter doesn’t turn when I touch the battery lead. Solenoid clicks when the switch is pushed with the solenoid unmounted from the starter.
I"m guessing short to ground in wire harness, or regulator.

It"s not the voltage regulator but it could well be a short to ground somewhere between the starter switch and solenoid.

Dean

"If I take the yellow wire off of the starter solenoid battery lug,(switch wire disconnected) the starter doesn’t turn when I touch the battery lead.".....that right there says that you have some very incorrect wiring on your tractor!! Whether or not that yellow (power to everything else) wire is connected or left hanging in the air will make absolutely ZERO difference to the solenoid/starter operation on a correctly wired tractor!! I suggest you verify wiring against correct FO-4 diagram or one of my diagrams, if you find friendlier to work with.

Thanks guys. I have to evict a bunch of field mice from my tractor each spring. Dang gnawers. I have a new wire harness I am going to install as soon as the mud from this rain and ice storm dries up enough to drive back in there.

I had the same problem with a new solenoid, turned out the studs would turn inside the plastic housing causing the problem. I drilled out the rivets holding the base on and moved both studs to the right positions and tightened the nuts, rivited the base back on and hooked everything back up taking care to make sure the studs did not turn. Solved the problem.

It's still too muddy to visit my N, and I was bored, so I disassembled the cracked solenoid from YT. I guess no-one explained the theory of electricity to the guy building solenoids in some Chinese factory. The slack in the copper wire they wrap around the copper lug when they assemble the solenoid was left in an upright loop satisfying the contactor. Back together and bench tested. Continuity between the big neg battery stud and the little ignition switch stud, none to the big starter side lug. Then I apply 6 volt negative lead from my battery charger to the big ignition stud and attach the positive charger lead to the small switch lug on the side of the solenoid, the relay clicks and holds the contact establishing continuity between the big ignition lug and the big starter lug. Does that seem right?

Terminology a bit awkward, but yes, power from batt (lrg) to small (start) energizes, but no energize with opposite large terminal & small.

Thanks to all who replied to my post. I got bored and decided to rebuild the original Ford solenoid also. Took a side grinder and a bolt tap and JB Weld but I got it fixed also. Revisited my tractor and both new replacement solenoids still had the starter turning instantly when battery connected. Before I began rewiring the entire tractor I put on the Henry Ford starter I had rebuilt. I actually said "Are you shi###ng me?" out loud even though I was by myself in the middle of 80 acres. The Ford Solenoid worked perfectly, even though the replacements do not.? The old girl (1952 8N, one model year newer than me) is running again. There has to be an issue with the new 8N11450 solenoids.