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Oil pressure

A

Aaron from Iowa

Member
Hello again, :)

Well, the clutch noise went away, BUT.... It is reading 60-80 PSI oil pressure and is having a slight knock. I plan on draining the oil and replaceing the filter when I get a chance, but would like any opinions on the cause and what to look for if that doesn't clear it up. I don't remember the oil pressure being that high when it was parked. Kin of thinking maybe an oil line or something plugged? Been looking for my Ford manual, but it's been a few years since I set it down somewhere.
 
(quoted from post at 18:31:08 04/08/13) Hello again, :)

Well, the clutch noise went away, BUT.... It is reading 60-80 PSI oil pressure and is having a slight knock. I plan on draining the oil and replaceing the filter when I get a chance, but would like any opinions on the cause and what to look for if that doesn't clear it up. I don't remember the oil pressure being that high when it was parked. Kin of thinking maybe an oil line or something plugged? Been looking for my Ford manual, but it's been a few years since I set it down somewhere.
Click to expand...

Aaron, 60-80 lbs of pressure aren't even possible. I believe the pressure relief, behind the big 15/16" nut behind the radiator, is set around 35 lbs.

I would get a new gauge and see what you get.

As for the knock, try to isolate where it is coming from. An automotive stethescope or long screwdriver stuck to your ear will help. Is it a deep, throaty knock? A tapping? Increase/decrease with more/less throttle?

Post back
 
(quoted from post at 21:37:38 04/08/13)
(quoted from post at 18:31:08 04/08/13) Hello again, :)

Well, the clutch noise went away, BUT.... It is reading 60-80 PSI oil pressure and is having a slight knock. I plan on draining the oil and replaceing the filter when I get a chance, but would like any opinions on the cause and what to look for if that doesn't clear it up. I don't remember the oil pressure being that high when it was parked. Kin of thinking maybe an oil line or something plugged? Been looking for my Ford manual, but it's been a few years since I set it down somewhere.
Click to expand...

Aaron, 60-80 lbs of pressure aren't even possible. I believe the pressure relief, behind the big 15/16" nut behind the radiator, is set around 35 lbs.

I would get a new gauge and see what you get.

As for the knock, try to isolate where it is coming from. An automotive stethescope or long screwdriver stuck to your ear will help. Is it a deep, throaty knock? A tapping? Increase/decrease with more/less throttle?

Post back
Click to expand...

Oh it's possible, I had an 8N that carried pressure like that with different
new gauges that I even tested in other tractors.
Pressure relief valve was stuck on mine.
I agree with isolating the noise, need to know where that's coming from.
 
(quoted from post at 18:54:33 04/08/13)
(quoted from post at 21:37:38 04/08/13)
(quoted from post at 18:31:08 04/08/13) Hello again, :)

Well, the clutch noise went away, BUT.... It is reading 60-80 PSI oil pressure and is having a slight knock. I plan on draining the oil and replaceing the filter when I get a chance, but would like any opinions on the cause and what to look for if that doesn't clear it up. I don't remember the oil pressure being that high when it was parked. Kin of thinking maybe an oil line or something plugged? Been looking for my Ford manual, but it's been a few years since I set it down somewhere.
Click to expand...

Aaron, 60-80 lbs of pressure aren't even possible. I believe the pressure relief, behind the big 15/16" nut behind the radiator, is set around 35 lbs.

I would get a new gauge and see what you get.

As for the knock, try to isolate where it is coming from. An automotive stethescope or long screwdriver stuck to your ear will help. Is it a deep, throaty knock? A tapping? Increase/decrease with more/less throttle?

Post back
Click to expand...

Oh it's possible, I had an 8N that carried pressure like that with different
new gauges that I even tested in other tractors.
Pressure relief valve was stuck on mine.
I agree with isolating the noise, need to know where that's coming from.
Click to expand...

Exactly right Royse. If the can stick open the can stick closed...
 
I"ve got a 2N that"s reading 50+ oil pressure. Already changed the oil and filter. Where is this pressure relief valve? Getting blue smoke so if pressure is too high, excessive blow by?
 
(quoted from post at 05:29:43 04/09/13) I"ve got a 2N that"s reading 50+ oil pressure. Already changed the oil and filter. Where is this pressure relief valve? Getting blue smoke so if pressure is too high, excessive blow by?
Click to expand...

The pressure relief spring and plunger is behind the big 15/16" nut on the very front of your 2N engine. It will be right beside the #3 plug nipple on your front mount distributor under the upper radiator hose. Just remove the nut and all three (nut, spring, plunger) will come right out; careful there is a little spring tension. The flat spot on the plunger is supposed to be there.

Blue smoke from the exhaust is rings/valve seals. Blow by would be smoke from the oil filler neck.
 
(quoted from post at 08:29:43 04/09/13) I"ve got a 2N that"s reading 50+ oil pressure. Already changed the oil and filter. Where is this pressure relief valve? Getting blue smoke so if pressure is too high, excessive blow by?
Click to expand...

No - higher oil pressure does not produce blow-by.

TOH
 
Yes, I"ve got blue smoke out the oil breather too. I suspect I may have some stuck piston rings since this tractor sat more than ran. Also has ran cold for who know how long. Will check out the relief valve as soon as this blizzard blows by.
 
I would look to gauge first, then relief valve. Filter? Would you believe that the pressure will be the same, even if you put the lid back on the canister WITHOUT and element inside? Filter, wishful thinking! No increased blow by as a result of high oil pressure either.....or smokey exhaust.
 
(quoted from post at 06:44:39 04/09/13) Yes, I"ve got blue smoke out the oil breather too. I suspect I may have some stuck piston rings since this tractor sat more than ran. Also has ran cold for who know how long. Will check out the relief valve as soon as this blizzard blows by.
Click to expand...

Stuck/worn rings or liners would be indicative of that. Oil can be sucked into the cylinder on the intake stroke due to the vacuum induced by the piston traveling down the bore. Thus the blue smoke from exhaust.

Combustion products will be forced past the rings on the power stroke, thus the smoke from oil filler neck.

An ATF soak could help some by pouring a teaspoon down the spark plug hole and letting it set to free up stuck rings.

You can have all the snow you want...sunny and 72 here in Glendale, KY

Good Luck
 
I'm going to add a little more background info. In about '03-'04 a friend thoroughly went through the tractor after my grandad passed away, as it had been parked next to his shed for as long as I can remember. It was then repainted and parked inside another shed. It was maybe ran 5 or 6 times between then and now. It's been probably 3 or 4 years since the last time it was started, but this is the first time the oil pressure read high or a knock was heard. When it gets a bit warmer, I'm planning to drop the pan and do a sludge check, as well as check out the pressure relief valve.

He had a second N that needs quite a bit more attention than this one, so I'm hoping this is an easy fix.
 
Funny you should post again today on this subject.
I started my 9N this afternoon for the first time since last fall.
Oil pressure gauge pegged above 50 PSI and stayed there!
It was running at a consistent 20 to 30 last year.
I had that happen on an 8N once and it was the relief valve.
I haven't taken this one apart yet to see what the cause is,
but when I do I'll let you know.
Dropping the oil pan might not be as easy as you think.
May want to find that manual. :)
 
Yeah, the oil pan isn't a whole lot of fun. I had to drop it on the other N a few years back to rebuild the oil pump.

I'd like to switch to a multi-viscosity detergent oil on this tractor, which is my biggest reason for wanting to drop the pan. The other is to double check and make sure there aren't any animal nests or walnuts in the pan.

I DID find my FO-4 finally
 
The archives here are full of discussions on multi-vis oils and what type to use.
General opinion seems to be to use 10W-30 or 15W-40 weight quality oil.
The Old Hokie has posted a lot of information including temperature charts
and graphs on the differences which helped me make up my mind what to
run.
Your tractor, your choice. :)
 
I drained the oil today, and found a nice sized pile of crud in the plug. :( I'm thinkin' the pump sucked a whole lotta that stuff up and plugged some lines... So I'm trying to plan ahead for when I've got the pan off. What kind of tools should I have on hand for un-clogging oil lines? Wire/drill bits/pipe cleaners? Any specific diameters? Is there a better way?

Thanks,
Aaron
 
(quoted from post at 19:40:12 04/26/13) I drained the oil today, and found a nice sized pile of crud in the plug. :( I'm thinkin' the pump sucked a whole lotta that stuff up and plugged some lines... So I'm trying to plan ahead for when I've got the pan off. What kind of tools should I have on hand for un-clogging oil lines? Wire/drill bits/pipe cleaners? Any specific diameters? Is there a better way?

Thanks,
Aaron
Click to expand...

Why bother with the wire. Just unhook em and give em a shot of compressed air. Works fast.

I'd run detergent oil like normal and short change it a few times to clean it up. A little atf in the oil will help too.
 
(quoted from post at 22:40:12 04/26/13) I drained the oil today, and found a nice sized pile of crud in the plug. :( I'm thinkin' the pump sucked a whole lotta that stuff up and plugged some lines... So I'm trying to plan ahead for when I've got the pan off. What kind of tools should I have on hand for un-clogging oil lines? Wire/drill bits/pipe cleaners? Any specific diameters? Is there a better way?

Thanks,
Aaron
Click to expand...

If your tractor is suffering from artherosclerosis-N (sludge clogged oil passages to the bearings) a wire or pipe cleaner isn't going to do the job - the cure is a good immersion cleaning in a vat. Inadequate oil supply to the bearings will quickly kill an engine....

TOH

PS> High quality detergent oil and regular oil and filter changes help prevent sludge buildup.
 
I pulled the pan and miked 3 of the rod journals....Readings varied from 2.0885-2.0920. Does anyone know of a good place in NW Iowa to get the crank reground? How much does it usually cost?

On the bright side, the journals and mains didn't look in too bad of shape. I wonder what kind of fun I'll find when I pull the motor?

Thanks guys.
Aaron

Oh. Here's a picture of the topside after I replaced the plugs, wires, and wiring harness.
17124.jpg
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