'48 8n rear axle threads

BJ-WI

Member
Hi everyone. I have a 48 8n with leaking rear axle seals. After taking it apart I noticed the axle threads were stripped, not terrible but enough that the nut cannot be completely tightened. The PO must have ran it loose for some time,also the hub was worn so I bought a new one from this site. I took the axle to my local machine/welding shop to have him fix the threads. He tried many sizes of taps? I'm not sure what the name of the tool is to cut/repair threads. Anyway, he couldn't figure what size it took. He said they were finer than fine threads and a metric size was close but not perfect. I doubt the threads are metric. Anyone been here before? I Appreciate all Help! Thanks BJ
 
(quoted from post at 16:55:10 04/01/13) Hi everyone. I have a 48 8n with leaking rear axle seals. After taking it apart I noticed the axle threads were stripped, not terrible but enough that the nut cannot be completely tightened. The PO must have ran it loose for some time,also the hub was worn so I bought a new one from this site. I took the axle to my local machine/welding shop to have him fix the threads. He tried many sizes of taps? I'm not sure what the name of the tool is to cut/repair threads. Anyway, he couldn't figure what size it took. He said they were finer than fine threads and a metric size was close but not perfect. I doubt the threads are metric. Anyone been here before? I Appreciate all Help! Thanks BJ

You might want to ask yourself what sort of machine shop can't measure a 1.25-18 UN thread. That's a special and I doubt he has a die to recut them. A machinist could recut them using a single pointing threading tool and a lathe. Of course he'd also likely charge you more than the cost of a new axle....

TOH
 
If they're not too far gone you might try the two piece axle nuts.
Google "ford 8n two piece axle nut" and you'll find them.
The have an inner nut and then a clamp nut.
They're close to $30 each, and may not work if your threads are too bad.
 
Bob-Thank you.
TheOldHokie-Thank you. He probably did know the size but didn't have the correct die. This man did many, many welding jobs for me. Maybe welding is more his specialty than machining.
Royse-Thank you, too. I actually bought those nuts from this site, I wonder if anyone else has used them? They seem like a good idea. I'm sure the axle threads are too far gone though. Thanks Again!
 
I tried one of those 2 piece nuts on 1 of my tractors , I didn't think it worked at all , came loose not too long after ,ended up getting a different axle.

Stan
9N 222933
2N with 8N motor 8N345567
8N 146710
8N 179555
8N 197904
8N 199000
8N 254079
8N 362039
 
If your threads are too far gone, they won't work.
After all, we're asking them to torque to 400 ft/lbs on marginal threads.
I installed one on an 8N and it held well. Never came loose. But I only had
one or two damaged threads right where the original would hold.
Probably someone turned it with the lock ring still in at some point.
 
(quoted from post at 01:01:24 04/02/13) I tried one of those 2 piece nuts on 1 of my tractors , I didn't think it worked at all , came loose not too long after ,ended up getting a different axle.

Stan
9N 222933
2N with 8N motor 8N345567
8N 146710
8N 179555
8N 197904
8N 199000
8N 254079
8N 362039
hey hold long enough to get into the field & lose them!!!
 
(quoted from post at 02:06:30 04/03/13) If your threads are too far gone, they won't work.
After all, we're asking them to torque to 400 ft/lbs on marginal threads.
I installed one on an 8N and it held well. Never came loose. But I only had
one or two damaged threads right where the original would hold.
Probably someone turned it with the lock ring still in at some point.

Its not possible to torque them to 400 ft/lbs even with the best threads known to man... The best you can do is run them up haftarse tight and lock'em down with the outter nut... If that satisfies ya then you are good to go for awhile... I have one are two new ones on the shelf if anyone wants a deal on'em... I don't ever plan to go their again as long as I can afford to fix them right...
 
(quoted from post at 21:23:13 04/02/13)
(quoted from post at 02:06:30 04/03/13) If your threads are too far gone, they won't work.
After all, we're asking them to torque to 400 ft/lbs on marginal threads.
I installed one on an 8N and it held well. Never came loose. But I only had
one or two damaged threads right where the original would hold.
Probably someone turned it with the lock ring still in at some point.

Its not possible to torque them to 400 ft/lbs even with the best threads known to man... The best you can do is run them up haftarse tight and lock'em down with the outter nut... If that satisfies ya then you are good to go for awhile... I have one are two new ones on the shelf if anyone wants a deal on'em... I don't ever plan to go their again as long as I can afford to fix them right...
The one I installed on that 8N was the only one I've used so limited
exposure, but it was torqued to 400 ft/lbs with a torque wrench.
It was installed with the lock not in place but not tightened all the way.
Maybe I just got lucky, but it worked for me.
 
(reply to post at 05:55:12 04/03/13)

One question if you were able to tighten the first nut (sleeve nut) to 400 then why did you not use the original style nut... I can believe you jammed the ring nut to 400 but the sleeve nut never was at 400 again the hub and never will be... Best you can do is jam the ring nut again the sleeve nut to 400 if possible..

I will go one step farther... You can run the sleeve nut up to were it does not touch the hub,,, install the locks supplied and then run the sleeve nut up to 400 if possible you then applied 400 to the assymbley is 400 applied to the hub...:?:

I do like the instructions (when I read'em) they say run the sleeve nut up good N tight that's is all they say :lol:
 
Mine had different instructions.
They said to thread the first nut onto the axle until the outer end was flush
with the end of the axle, then install the lock nut just tight enough to hold
the threads engaged with the axle.
(Effectively giving you an inch or so thick nut minus the grooves)
Line the hex portions up and tighten as a unit to 400 ft/lbs, then tighten the
lock nut.
As I said, sample size of one.
I can't say it would work every time, and I'm sure it wouldn't work if the
threads were really buggered up, but it worked for me that time.
 
(quoted from post at 07:58:46 04/03/13) Mine had different instructions.
They said to thread the first nut onto the axle until the outer end was flush
with the end of the axle, then install the lock nut just tight enough to hold
the threads engaged with the axle.
(Effectively giving you an inch or so thick nut minus the grooves)
Line the hex portions up and tighten as a unit to 400 ft/lbs, then tighten the
lock nut.
As I said, sample size of one.
I can't say it would work every time, and I'm sure it wouldn't work if the
threads were really buggered up, but it worked for me that time.

I understand we do agree if the proper Torque can not be meet you have just pizzed away the cost of the nut... Its a roll of the dice...

I will try and get a few pix together to show how they are spose to work...
 

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