At what point do I decide to do a total rebuild?

A 1942 Toro Master B. Has set for the last 25+ years. Where do I start?

This is a 9N motor. Industrial

With the introduction you present in pictures,I would recommend complete dis-assembly of the engine to clean, measure and assess the condition of all parts. I can only guess the cooling system needs a good cleaning as a result of some child or other errant person pouring the pictured material into the radiator......I would want to know if the oil sump(s) have been similarly contaminated.Better safe than sorry if the machine is worth saving.

Yup I would recommend a total teardown.

Heck a little MMO and it will run another 30 years.

Rick

I bought my first N in 1977 I had no idea what I was buying. It had set may years at least since late 50s I was told. Rubber rotting off, rims were sunk into the dirt and real bad rust on 2 of them. Radiator fins plugged full with alfalfa stems and leaves. It is crank start it has a mag. We pulled on the crank, engine was free. Undid sed bowl an ran some gas through the tank to flush it, buttoned it up drug it into a heated shop all night. Put new gas in it (had old oil in it) 3 cranks she took off. Now all I can say is I was so lucky it would defy all odds and all I can say is it was a divine intervention. If I would find one today in the shape I found it in I would completely dismantle it cause I used all my good luck up in 77. I bet you may be surprised if they didn't run it out of oil or ruin it in some way you may have a good deal. Take the plugs out and turn it by hand and see if it will roll. It can have mice nest or mud dobbers in the valves and cyls if the air cleaner and or carb gave them an opening. It still has the original hose clamps and hose and wiring that shows aint rotted. I bet youll be fine. That N I told you about at first I used to plow,hog, till, disc, blade, and post hole dig with is my winter project and I am completely refurbishing it to be put on loan to the museum. Engine, tranny and hyl have never been touched. I did have to put a water pump on it once. I hope you are as lucky. Have fun

See your up late too. Hows that family farm project doin? Good I hope.

I think it depends on what your plans are. If I was going to run it in what it was in, and didn't have lots of time or money I'd do what I did on the 8N given to me again. It sat for 30+ years in a barn. Engine was locked. Patience is the key if you don't want to damage parts. I'd pull the drain plug to see what comes out. If it's clean use fresh oil and replace the filter. Pull the head and put in trans fluid and let soak. Use a 4x4 and a 32 oz. ball pien hammer to tap, not beat the pistons loose. When I freed mine up, I honed the cyl. walls and used oil to aid in compression. Mine doesn't smoke and runs well. I too got lucky which is why I would be patient and not assume the worst. Prime the oil pump through the front plug, replace all hoses and belt. Wiring too. Rebuilt the carb, cleaned out the tank and it works fine. Hope this helps. Gerard

Where do I start?

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I learned the hard way , always pull the pan on one that has been sitting out side for years .

These motors have a poor oil filtering system (passive) that will recirculate dirt dobber nests and other contaminates that may stay trapped in one of the baffled chambers built into the oil pan until the oil gets to operating temperature .

An average oil filter will remove particles larger than about 20 microns , the bearing clearance should be about .003 to .005 but the screen if you even have one would let particles of about .030 pass through (762 microns ). The oil pump may grind up a large grain of sand or pass it through a few times first , after it gouges past the bearings .

It ain't a pretty site