I was asked to help a friend who has a 39 ford N and not much knowledge of its history. In short I need guidance testing the starting system as it won't turn over. Here's what I know. It is positive ground on 8 volt battery. I am unsure of what battery should be in it, 6 or 12. It has an alternator as opposed to generator. I am going over to get serial number for more info later but would like some guidance on testing the no crank issue. I have volt meter and battery shows 8.5. How should I further test it and does anyone have a theory? Of course it had run fine and then one day nothing. Thanks Greg.
- Thread starter Tgkobal
- Start date
Most alternators are 12 volt negative ground unless it was custom.
The starter should still roll it over, but hooking the alternator up
Positive ground may fry it if it is 12 volt neg. ground.
Maybe just unhook it for now until you know for sure.
The starter won't care pos or neg ground, it will still spin.
The 9N should have a mechanical switch to connect the starter to the battery
when you push the thumb button. Many have been altered.
If it has that mechanical switch under the battery, you can jumper it to see
if it will roll over.
Be absolutely certain its in neutral and block the clutch down first!
The mechanical linkage that pushes the switch sometimes wears down and
won't push the switch far enough, or the switch may be bad.
They will sometimes act like this if the starter is stuck in the ring gear too.
Sometimes you can put the tractor in high gear and rock it by hand to get
it to pop loose, other times you have to take the starter loose or out.
Let us know what you find.
The starter should still roll it over, but hooking the alternator up
Positive ground may fry it if it is 12 volt neg. ground.
Maybe just unhook it for now until you know for sure.
The starter won't care pos or neg ground, it will still spin.
The 9N should have a mechanical switch to connect the starter to the battery
when you push the thumb button. Many have been altered.
If it has that mechanical switch under the battery, you can jumper it to see
if it will roll over.
Be absolutely certain its in neutral and block the clutch down first!
The mechanical linkage that pushes the switch sometimes wears down and
won't push the switch far enough, or the switch may be bad.
They will sometimes act like this if the starter is stuck in the ring gear too.
Sometimes you can put the tractor in high gear and rock it by hand to get
it to pop loose, other times you have to take the starter loose or out.
Let us know what you find.
If it has an alternator and is + ground good chance the smoke has escaped from the alternator and will cause many problems like a dead battery. Unless it has an alternator made in England that is. Plus unless custom it would be 12 volts so an 8 volt battery would fry if the charging system works. I would start by pulling the alternator off and have it checked and then find a good 12 volt battery and hook the system up - ground
an 8v alt huh? pos or neg grnd?
I'll leave that lil headache to someone else.
the machine will start and run with no alt or genny.
start switch is a manual job between the thumb button on trans top and back of steering pedistal via linkage.
charge battery.. clean connections.. close switch.. starter should roll.
post back
I'll leave that lil headache to someone else.
the machine will start and run with no alt or genny.
start switch is a manual job between the thumb button on trans top and back of steering pedistal via linkage.
charge battery.. clean connections.. close switch.. starter should roll.
post back
On the back of that switch, is there mechanical linkage or a couple of wires?
If it has a couple of wires, they probably go to an added solenoid.
The solenoid would have two large terminals, one from the battery and one
going to the starter. You would jumper those two large terminals to bypass it.
Again, making sure it's in neutral and blocking the clutch down as you are
bypassing any safety mechanisms.
But if that's how it is set up, you have some more variables instead of just
the mechanical linkage and the big switch.
You have the little push button that could be bad, the wiring and the solenoid
itself to test. Not a big deal, we just need to know how its hooked up.
If it has a couple of wires, they probably go to an added solenoid.
The solenoid would have two large terminals, one from the battery and one
going to the starter. You would jumper those two large terminals to bypass it.
Again, making sure it's in neutral and blocking the clutch down as you are
bypassing any safety mechanisms.
But if that's how it is set up, you have some more variables instead of just
the mechanical linkage and the big switch.
You have the little push button that could be bad, the wiring and the solenoid
itself to test. Not a big deal, we just need to know how its hooked up.
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