well ive thoroughly, disassembled, and cleaned the distributor, replaced both bushings, cleaned and inspected the centrifugal advance,installed new points,condenser,rotor and cap,checked out the coil,all systems perfect,all clearances correct, put the dist. back on the tractor and have the exact same original problem, it runs 1 to 1 1/2 minutes and the points close and lose their gap, when taken apart the base of the point set is tight and has not moved, needless to say i am now seriously considering driving over the whole tractor with the d-8-R before i do, has anybody got any ideas, it just doesnt seem physically possible for this to be happening
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- Thread starter ericlb
- Start date
BillM (OH)
Well-known Member
1.Echlin or Blue Streak points?
2.star washers under the hold down screws?
3. quality points lube?
4.nothing on the rotating part that would eat up the rubbing block?
can't think of any other fix........
2.star washers under the hold down screws?
3. quality points lube?
4.nothing on the rotating part that would eat up the rubbing block?
can't think of any other fix........
Bill Rowles
Member
I had a different problem with points replacement in my ford NAA tractor.....would not run with points I got in a tuneup kit from Tractor Supply(TSC). I put the old points back in and it ran fine........the points were not made correctly and moveable arm of point was rubbing on screw head holding fixed (base) arm to the distributor plate. Try your old points (after filing and polishing contacts best you can). You did not answer the question asked about the manufacturer of your new points....that may be important and the experts here can't help if you don't give all the info. they ask for. Also,can you borrow another distributor form someone to test?
John Kruer
Member
Before you get the D8 out put in an eletronic ignition module for $100 and be done with it.
b:15eddcaa6a][i:15eddcaa6a](quoted from post at 00:17:15 03/23/13) me either nothing apparent is wrong, the rubbing block looks ok, there is no play in the shaft now, this is driving me nuts
Eric;
You ARE still working on the 2N front mount....RIGHT????????
If you are.....It's possible that the plate is moving, and changing the points settings!!????
Advance/retard screw on the side of the distrib, may be loose/and or stripped letting the points plate slide around....????????
Don't take much movement there to change/close up the points setting!!!!
Check it out for stripped threds if the screw is loose!!!!
Gary (Just a thought) :?: [/i:15eddcaa6a][/b:15eddcaa6a]
the screw on the side for the plateis tight i checked that,the snap ring fits tight on the plate, the star washers under the screws on the points are tight,and the stars themselves are in good shape the advance meckenism under the plate is free, and no slop, the eccentric screw for points adjustment is working properly, now when i set thepoints when new they will gap at 0.015, but after i run the engine a minute or 2 they close, and will no longer gap, that is the ecentric screw will move the point base but i cant gap the points, this happened on 3 different sets of points i tried different ones as i thought maybe they got regular china junk in blue streak boxes, so where in the world it this thing getting the slack? nothing makes any sense the shaft with new bushings installed has no slop side to side or up and down, can it be that the store is peddling junk points in the good boxes, and can the rub block really wear that much in that time?
mhb@ufe
Well-known Member
- Location
- Jefferson Maine
How about some pictures of the points? both installed and uninstalled.
Mark
Mark
well we discovered something at least, as usual, it cant be a simple deal it has to be a totally bizarre out in the field problem,when i went and picked up the 4th set of points in 3 days, i took the whole thing inther with me, what we discovered was the contact on the movable half of the points is being pulled thru the pivot block, its actually trying to weld the 2 pieces of points together! now when i replaced the ballast resister i ordered the original style and replaced the wires from the original one to the new one 1 terminal at a time,so no chance of mixing the wires up, im going over to the tractor with a volt meter in a few and seeing what kind of voltage the coil wire has on it, if 12,the ballast resistor isnt working or somebody changed something if it has 6 any other ideas of how i could be getting that kind of voltage to the points??
t looks like that answered my question........plastic rubbing block, not phenolic. Anyway, too much current. You must measure coil voltage with points closed (current flowing) in order to get anything in way of meaningful measurement. Measure input of resistor to ground & output of resistor to ground with current flowing, too.(quoted from post at 13:36:15 03/23/13) well we discovered something at least, as usual, it cant be a simple deal it has to be a totally bizarre out in the field problem,when i went and picked up the 4th set of points in 3 days, i took the whole thing inther with me, what we discovered was the contact on the movable half of the points is being pulled thru the pivot block, its actually trying to weld the 2 pieces of points together! now when i replaced the ballast resister i ordered the original style and replaced the wires from the original one to the new one 1 terminal at a time,so no chance of mixing the wires up, im going over to the tractor with a volt meter in a few and seeing what kind of voltage the coil wire has on it, if 12,the ballast resistor isnt working or somebody changed something if it has 6 any other ideas of how i could be getting that kind of voltage to the points??
Answered mine too. Excess current, excess heat.(quoted from post at 13:44:08 03/23/13)t looks like that answered my question........plastic rubbing block, not phenolic. Anyway, too much current. You must measure coil voltage with points closed (current flowing) in order to get anything in way of meaningful measurement. Measure input of resistor to ground & output of resistor to ground with current flowing, too.(quoted from post at 13:36:15 03/23/13) well we discovered something at least, as usual, it cant be a simple deal it has to be a totally bizarre out in the field problem,when i went and picked up the 4th set of points in 3 days, i took the whole thing inther with me, what we discovered was the contact on the movable half of the points is being pulled thru the pivot block, its actually trying to weld the 2 pieces of points together! now when i replaced the ballast resister i ordered the original style and replaced the wires from the original one to the new one 1 terminal at a time,so no chance of mixing the wires up, im going over to the tractor with a volt meter in a few and seeing what kind of voltage the coil wire has on it, if 12,the ballast resistor isnt working or somebody changed something if it has 6 any other ideas of how i could be getting that kind of voltage to the points??
I don't remember if the coil was 6 volt or 12 volt if it was mentioned.
well i found 12 volts to the coil, so im going to go see if the parts store has a voltage reducer that i can install in the power wire otherwise ordering a 12 volt coil will also solve the problem right? now, how in the world did this tractor run great for 3 years with the same setup originally ??? nothing makes sense anymore i guess im just too old
ric, did you measure coil input voltage with points closed? If you measure it with points open, then there is NO current flow & thus NO voltage drop/reduction through your ballast resistor and you WILL measure full battery voltage.(quoted from post at 08:29:27 03/25/13) well i found 12 volts to the coil, so im going to go see if the parts store has a voltage reducer that i can install in the power wire otherwise ordering a 12 volt coil will also solve the problem right? now, how in the world did this tractor run great for 3 years with the same setup originally ??? nothing makes sense anymore i guess im just too old
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