So I used Zane's Hydro adjustment jig today....

I enclosed some pics, if anyone sees anything out of the ordinary can you let me know....thanks.

We seem to have it working better, but it's still not quite right...this is not because of Zane's jig, more just lack of equipment and knowledge. We will continue to adjust, so see if we can get it working better.
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one thing to add is that the fabric gasket on the draft control spring plate was pretty much gone. Is there some way to make something that will work, or do I need to order a new one?
 
Holy cow that needs a cleaning. I'd be dropping that pump and crawling in there with some diesel fuel and a stiff brush. I'm not sure that you can tell what might be going on with all of that goo (or maybe I am just staring at that). I'd think that if it was picking up any of that you might have all kinds of erratic things going on with the hydraulics from valves getting debris in them.

Once it is clean, put the cover on the workbench and put his jig on. Do it twice to make sure it is how you want it. Then button it up knowing you aren't going to have to get in there again. Just my 2 cents.
 
Ok, I think that is the plan, we got the position control adjusted pretty good. The draft control is off, but I'm not too concerned about that right now. What is the hydro fluid capacity off the top of your head?
 
I think the book calls for 5 gallons between the trans, hydraulics and rear end.
One common sump on an 8N. But if you don't have it all drained out and clean,
it won't hold quite that much. Maybe 4.5.
I used UTF that meets Ford spec 134C/D.
Is your control rod that goes from the quadrant to the valve on the pump bent?
I couldn't get mine to adjust for both draft and position control, it would do
one or the other but not both. Mine was bent.
 
I don't think it was bent, I think we just adjusted the draft control incorrectly. Thanks for the info, I have some tractor hydro fluid from TSC, think it will be ok?
 
Check the specs on the back of the can, if it lists the Ford 134 spec it should be Ok.
Around here some of the TSC Traveler oil does and some doesn't.
If it does not, I would look for one that does.
 
(quoted from post at 23:59:01 03/19/13) I enclosed some pics, if anyone sees anything out of the ordinary can you let me know....thanks.

We seem to have it working better, but it's still not quite right...this is not because of Zane's jig, more just lack of equipment and knowledge. We will continue to adjust, so see if we can get it working better.
15862.jpg
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15865.jpg

Your draft control linkage (8N540) is badly bent. It will never work right until that is fixed.
 
I agree with John.

You will need to replace the draft control fork in order to obtain proper adjustment and function.

Dean
 
(quoted from post at 08:44:17 03/20/13) I agree with John.

You will need to replace the draft control fork in order to obtain proper adjustment and function.

Dean

It can be straighten ...

to the original poster...

I did not follow the instructions to well either first go around :lol: you adjust the Draft FIRST as suggested in Zane's instructions... Get the draft set up and its all down hill from their...
 
I cover the problem with the draft linkage being badly worn in the pin area in my instructions. I hope you read the whole thing before you started the process.
That wear pattern on the anchor plate is an indication of a lot of wear from useage.
You can still get the draft linkage to work if you will follow my trick mentioned in the instructions with the flat washer. No need to even remove the lift cover to do it.

Read it again.

Zane
 
The position control was what I was really after and it is working much better, since we only use it to mow, and occasionally lift heavy things. I'll prob just give it a good cleaning and new oil and go with it for now. Now, about that fabric gasket that sits behind that plate?

Zane, I'll read it again, but the only thing I recall about that plate was you mentioned building it up by welding. Since, I don't have any equipment, I would just buy a new piece, for $20.
 
What always gets me is how much moisture gets trapped under the lift cover. Just look at the years of rust.

One would think there should be a way to vent or dry out the sump. Not to mention, rust flakes off and goes throught the pump. That can't be good either and there is no filter either.
 
MY APOLAGIES!!1

I was just looking through my Jig instructions and realized that I have not included my flat washer trick to obtain the "draf" mode adjustment for a badly worn lift linkage.
So here is it and in the future I'll include it in the instructions in a separate page.

Sorry! Senior moment!


DRAFT FLAT WASHER FIX
I make and sell a jig with instructions and a new cam follower pin which is usually worn out that allows you to be able to correctly adjust the 8N lift the first time you try to do it.
See my link below.

If the quadrant is not all the way to the back you should be able to adjust the draft by moving it rearward just enough to make the lift raise when the touch control lever is at the top of it's travel.
There is one other way to do it if the quadrant is all the way rearward already.
You can remove the big draft sensing spring and yoke. Then remove the three bolts that retain the draft spring anchor plate. Under the plate there is the flange of the draft control rod. The anchor plate keeps it from coming out of the lift housing. Obtain a flat washer that will just go down the shaft that the spring was over and cut or grind out enough of the flat washer so that it will fit over the dowel pin that prevents the link from moving. This will move the draft linkage more forward which is what we are trying to do here so the linkage will make contact with the control rod when the touch control handle is raised to the top of it's travel when in draft mode with the little lever.
Put the anchor plate back on and the three bolts that retain it and you can try it before you reassemble the big draft sensing spring to see if you got it to work. If it now makes the lift start to raise too far down the quadrant you can move the quadrant mounting forward some to where it will begins to raise in draft mode when the touch control lever is about an inch or two from the top of it's travel.
The lift is supposed to drop all the way to the ground when in Draft mode. The depth of the ground engaging implement can be set to keep a constant draft by slowly lowering the touch control handle to the point of draft you desire and then setting the handle stop so you can go back to that setting next time the lift is raised and lowered.

Zane
 

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