12 Volt Conversion - Fried two Alternators

HeyObie

Member
I converted my side mount 8N from 6V to 12V with a kit I bought. The kit came with mounting brackets, alt, and new 12V coil. I hooked it up and started right up and was charging around 14V. Everything looked fine.

I started it another day, and I noticed the ammeter was all the way to the right over charging. I noticed my battery was bubbling out the top. I put a meter on the battery and it was reading around 20V.

The company I bought it from sent me a relalcement alt. I put it on and the same result. Worked perfect for a short while. Then the battery started bubbling again and the ammeter over to the right charging 20V.

It is a single wire alternator. The wire that is connected to the alt is hot even with the key off. Negative ground.

I called the company and they will refund, but I need to send it all back. They don't love me anymore.

The tractor runs fine. Obviously, I have something wrong.
 
Some 1 wire alternators are bastardized 3 wire ones that do not work as they should. Me I do my own wiring and use the common Delco 10si like what would come on a 1980 Chev pick up no power any thing no AC. Easy to wire up and if you have an O'Reilly's close by you can buy them for around $45 plus a core of $10.
 
We have Napa around here and can get one for $49. It is a three wire. Can you share how to wire it up? Or is it too hard to explain.
 
I never do the 1 wires any more due to odd problem caused by them. Like battery drain and high RPMs needed to exciter them etc. The 3 wire ones are simple to hook up and if as I said you have an O'Reilly's close to you they come with a lift time warranty so if it does go bad you can take it back and get a new one for free. The 3 wire has as it says 3 wires. The big charge wire which you hook like the 1 wire and then a plug with a #1 and #2 wire. The #2 goes to the charge stud on the alternator and the #1 with a diode in line radio shack #276-1661 goes to the ignition side of the coil or the ignition switch the coil side and your done
 
When replacing an alternator on a car one time I went through 4 of them before one finally worked. I had been getting the from the auto place. I finally got smart and got a Bosh like it came with. Problem solved.

Take that alternator and have it tested. If it is bad get a new one and have them test it before you leave the store. That takes that out of the equation.
 
I had a similar problem with my daughter's eclipse. I went through 2 after market alternators. A mechanic told me that the company that rebuilt them had bad parts until it was caught. Had to buy an oem and everything was fine


I am going to Radio shack and then Napa for the alternator.
 
Old,

Let me see if I have this right in my own words:

1 - the large wire connected at the starter/battery connection, connects to the alternator at the charging stud.

2 - Connect a wire from the #2 connection on the alternator and attach it to the charging stud

3 - Connect a wire from the #1 connection on the alternator and attach it to the coil side of the ignition switch.

Which way does the diode face? Does the ring on the diode face away from the alternator or toward it?

Thanks,

Obie
 
ring on diode ( cathode ) toward alternator....

any 1+a / 50 PIV+ diode will work.

a 3a/200piv is much prefered..
 
I just put a 12 volt conversion on my 2N It stays on 0 while running high rpm"s don"t help I got it on e-bay for a $100 free shipping. When the lights are on it discharges it is also a one wire unit I put on new wire that came with it and followed instructions, checked twice,other than going to a three wire any help?
 
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Xring, you might check to make sure you have the right pulley and that it and the belt are tight.
A parts store will test the alternator for free if you want to rule that out as a cause.
You might also check and see if your one wire alternator has all three terminals.
If it does I've read on here (Old maybe?) that you can sometimes wire them as a three wire.
 

A voltmeter would have tipped you off before the amp meter would...
Add are replace the amp meter with a voltmeter...

Nutter reason to ditch the amp meter... :x
 
Many 1 wire set ups need 2000 plus RPM to excite and the N series engine has a problem doing that often so that is why i never say to use a 1 wire. BTDT and never again will I use the one wires
 
Yes once in a while you can get lucky and wire a 1 wire like a 3 wire by adding the 2 wire plug but it does not work every time
 

I am sure @ 20V and a maxed amp gauge the belt and pulley is not a issue at this time but gonna be as its get'n a good strest test :D
 
(quoted from post at 06:48:00 03/17/13) I would agree Hobo!
I was actually responding to Xring, who said his was at zero. :)

Did'n catch that yes you are correct... I will say this cuzz its seems to be the standard reply,,, why take it off its already bolted to a test stand....

Maybe the amp meter lubbers can help with diagnosing it with a amp gauge as their first line of defense...
 
I got the new alternator, 3 wires and diode all hooked up. Seems to be working great.

Thanks for all the help. Especially OLD for sending me down this path.

:lol: :lol: :lol:
 
this altenator came with a second pully which I used I fit the belt better 5/8 with as I see it judging by the size of the pullys at high speed this alt. should produce voltage I do have voltage on # 1 terminal but not on # 2 the literature says may have to jump # 1 to the main post which I did I"ll try the alternate wiring monday weather permitting it may be sunny NOT!!!!!
 
(quoted from post at 16:46:08 03/16/13) I just put a 12 volt conversion on my 2N It stays on 0 while running high rpm"s don"t help I got it on e-bay for a $100 free shipping. When the lights are on it discharges it is also a one wire unit I put on new wire that came with it and followed instructions, checked twice,other than going to a three wire any help?
ight verify the ammeter/alt/load wiring. Some of those kits show strange (non-std) ammeter connections.
 

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