Live hydraulics and using trans sump for crank driven pump

tachnem

New User
I have a crank driven hydraulic pump and would like to plumb it into the transmission/rear axle sump. Will I need to drill and tap or are there already supply and return ports I can plumb into? Is that too far of a run for the supply line to the pump?

If I understand correctly, after doing so I'll have live hydraulics for the 3ph using the original lever. Are there any downsides to doing this? I assume the internal pump continues to work but isn't doing much at that point....?

Thanks.
 
There's an article in the "How To" section By Kevin LaRue on the N tractor board that gives you step by step procedures.

I'd give you a link but it won't post.
 
(quoted from post at 18:04:33 03/04/13) I have a crank driven hydraulic pump and would like to plumb it into the transmission/rear axle sump. Will I need to drill and tap or are there already supply and return ports I can plumb into? Is that too far of a run for the supply line to the pump?

If I understand correctly, after doing so I'll have live hydraulics for the 3ph using the original lever. Are there any downsides to doing this? I assume the internal pump continues to work but isn't doing much at that point....?

Thanks.

No downside - it is a great upgrade. The basics:
  • [*:eeb55d4b7f]The primary rule is maximum flow rate to the test port is roughly 2 GPM. If your pump makes more than that at 2000 RPM you will need to find a way to throttkle it down. Anything more than 2 GPM and you will overwhelm the exhaust valve in the OEM pump and generate enough back pressure in the lift circuit to cause the 3pt to raise and stay there.[*:eeb55d4b7f]Your pump is delivering 2 GPM to the rear sump so you need to pick up the oil from the same place and at the same rate or you run the risk of overfilling or sucking it dry. The transmission and hydraulic sumps are "common" but the oil does not flow between them at that rate.[*:eeb55d4b7f]You can use the 1/2" NPT pipe plug in the differntial as your pickup point but I prefer the drain plug. You can drill and tap that plug for a fitting but I prefer using an adapter made specifically for that purpose. I make and sell them if you are interested[*:eeb55d4b7f]The test port has a 1/2-20 thread so you need an appropriate adapter for it. DO NOT attempt to use a pipe fitting if you value your OEM pump! I recommend an SAE ORB x JIC elbow. The test port is an uncommon size as hydraulic ports go so they are a little hard to find in the proper size. I keeo them in stock and sell them for way less than most hydraulic supply houses[/list:eek::eeb55d4b7f]

    I have everything needed to hook up your pump - hoses, hose adapters, port adapters, etc. - and it all fits together correctly. If you want to go one stop shopping for your plumbing needs give me a call. I can guarantee it will be cheaper than buying it piecemeal.

    Top picture is a test port adapter and the bottom picture is a sump adapter with ORB hose barb for the suction line. These are what i supply in my live hydraulic kits.

    TOH

    [email protected]
    301.655.0631 (EST)

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Using the crank driven pump will not work unless you were to install a "flow diverter" in the pressure line that would dump the excess back into the sump or to some other hydraulic device.

Otherwise the three point hitch will raise up and not go down as long as the pump is running/

See my site link below.

Zane
ZANES LIFT STUFF INVENTED BY ME.
 
(quoted from post at 21:23:35 03/04/13) Using the crank driven pump will not work unless you were to install a "flow diverter" in the pressure line that would dump the excess back into the sump or to some other hydraulic device.

Otherwise the three point hitch will raise up and not go down as long as the pump is running/

See my site link below.

Zane
ZANES LIFT STUFF INVENTED BY ME.

I guess that depends on the pump. No diverter needed or used on this one - .25 CID = 2.16 GPM @2000 engine RPM ;-)

TOH


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