1949 (Front Mount) 8N Distributor Challenges - Maybe?

Gents,

I was a away for a while. Always good to seek the advice from the knowledgable folks here.....

My 1949 8N has been at odds since I have been back in Texas using it. The spark keeps, well, disappearing.

First time it happened I discovered a little round ring by the bottom fan pulley (this would turn out to be the distributor bushing! How this bushing found its way out of the distributor without the distributor being off is an 8N mystery??? I discovered that the little round ring was the distributor bushing when I took the distributor off to check the points. I realized what is was immediately (because play in shaft).

I soon discovered that there was two hairline cracks in the distributor housing (see picture) and, although the distributor bushing was reinserted, the bushing would come out fairly easy.

With a hope, a prayer and consultation from my manuals, I replaced points, inserted the bushing and reattached the distributor. It would not start. I did the old "let her sit a week" trick and it started up on the first try.

I ran for a while and went down. But kind of a sick death....sputtering for several minutes. I thought I lost compression.

Yesterday, I went to do a compression check. Just for fun, I checked sparks first...no spark. I removed the hood and completed the compression check with following results:
1 - 90 psi (rear)
2 - 90 psi
3 - 90 psi
4 - 105 psi (front)

With the tractor having adequate compression (I believe) and the tractor having no spark.....I turned my attention to the cracked distributor....

Can these little cracks be causing the problem? I am assuming that when mounted, there is NO play in the shaft?
How did the bushing escape the first time?
Regarding compression, why was 4 cylinder so much higher than other three?

Oh, and I did a test with the voltmeter and I was getting juice to the coil. I attached a pic of bushing out of distributor to make sure anyone interested in helping knows what I am talking about.

Thanks for your wise comments.

I see no way for that bushing to escape, unless it fell out when you removed the distributor.
The bushing in the picture looks like it is out of round, as if there is play there.
I would think with those cracks, as it warms there would be play.
I can't say for sure if that's your problem, but if it were me I would replace that housing.
Forum members Jim.UT or John Smith might have a good used one.

It's possible that could be welded. I'm not positive, but it would be worth stopping by a local welding shop and showing them.

The housing is still available as a new part from this site.

Colin, MN
Distributor Housing

Thank you. I am thinking it is replacement time as well regardless....just wondering if that is going to solve the inconsistent no spark issue.

Check the ignition switch. They are famous for being intermittent. If the ammeter works it will tell you if the switch is not making contact if everything else is working OK. Or, jumper the switch next time the spark disappears.

Good point, I tend to go for the distributor, but I did check the point where the wire connects to the coil and I had electricity up to that point?

I ran out of time, but now with the gas drained and the hood off....I can easily replace the distributor and run diagnostics.

I wil do that this week.

no spark, probably the insulator where the pigtail makes contact,
or the key switch, or with that much play, the points aren't opening at all
when the engine is turning over.
With those cracks, I'd probably find an ebay or scrapyard distributor.
between the 2, make a good one.
It isn't worth the risk of chewing up the cam.

BTW, probably just a typo, but when you
put it back together, check the firing order.
#1 cyl is at the front......

Anvilhead, what happens when the dizzy is bolted down without the tang being lined up in the slot in the end of the cam is that the back of the distributor case cracks just like yours has. Usually they break. Your dizzy has been abused.

Clearly the rear bushing was running loose and off centered for a long time! It should not have fallen out when someone was reinstalling the dizzy. This bushing should be so tight it should have to be driven in with a hammer and bushing driver.

That rear bushing cannot be flopping around or your points cam is not going to be able to hold the .015" points gap consistently, and then your engine will not run smoothly. It needs to be tight in the distributor case and the cam and weights also need to have no play in that bushing.

I'd say, bite the bullet and get a new or used case without cracks, and a new rear bushing.

Charlie....thank you. I figured as much, but your words seem to drive it home. Thank you.