X it dont care where ya live,snicker. If ya mean altitude, humidity ect. Each tractor and carb have their sweet spots they all start and run different.Do it by the book and go from there till ya get it where you and the tractor are happy,thats what I do.
 
xring.........high speed sputter is most likely a weak sparkies problem. .........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
Where in WV you live? I live in Augusta, WV near Romney, WV. I get over to Moundsville, WV a lot. My Girlfriends home is in Cameron, WV.
 
[b:b029f0a3e0][i:b029f0a3e0]
Firstly.....I've read and re-read, all four posts, that you have made about your 2N!!!!
BTW:.....I like yer paint job...Looks nice!
A couple of observations, in yer statements, in the posts:
#1.....If you have to have the distrib., advanced all the way, to get yer engine to run even half-way good......then you have something wrong, with the distrib. set-up!!!!!! IE.....advance weights not right/free to work under the timing plate,.....worn bushings, for the distrib shaft.....improper setting for the points...ETC.!!
FO-4 manual tells you where to start.....(as in this pic.)....:
timing2.jpg

Your timing plate should look orientated, like this....after you set the distrib. as in the first pic.......:
Hermiesnewdistplate1.jpg

setting the floats, in the M/S TSX carb., should ALWAYS be set at, 1/4"!!!! Anything higher or lower, will NOT insure the fuel level, inside the carb. bowl!!!!
Easy to set, with a 1/4" drill bit, on top of the gasket, and under the float...(Make sure to get the float level.!!!!!
Center of this page will show you how!!>>>>
reassembly-1.jpg

Speaking of carbs....here are my settings that I use to set a carb up after overhauling!!!! YES, I do know that you will not have a RPM meter, on your 2N.....you just have to have a good ear!!!
If these setting do NOT help ya get rid of the high throttle sputtering, take a good look at re-setting your distrib.!!!............:
M-STSXsettings-1.jpg


OH YEH...........You really should take a compression test on yer engine......especially if you want to get top $$ for the 2N!!!!!!! The buyer is gonna want to know!!!!?????

HTH

Gary :) [/i:b029f0a3e0][/b:b029f0a3e0]
 
OK. I always stop at the McDonald's in Mannington on my way to and from Cameron. Cameron is another 45 minutes up the road. About 175 miles from over here in Augusta to Cameron. I run across U.S.50 and U.S.250.
 
I USE to go through Augusta on our way to Capon Bridge where I go hunting and fishing also belong to a sportsman club in that area now we use 68 to Cumberland then 220
 
I borrowed a compression gauge today I've replaced the counter weigh unit in the dist. and there is no play in the bearing and I made a tool in my lath that fits the bolt hole and is 1/4 inch step up used a file on the dist. tung clamped in a vise and a spring clamp on the piece I made wither other end of the file and a ohm meter to set the timing I also just order a new coil from nnalert. I'll fix this thing or be damned
 
(quoted from post at 19:19:34 02/05/13) I livr in Mannington thats north on 250 out of Fairmont about 14 miles

Hey I know where that is. I lived in Buckhannon for the first 31 years of my life. Keep messing with it. You'll figure it out.
 
The next time you come down to Capon Bridge...
Get off at the Industrial Bvld. exit on I-68 in Cumberland. About three miles to Virgina Ave. Make a right onto Virginia Ave. Go thru short Gap, WV, Ft. Ashby, to Springfield, WV. In Springfield there is a big 4-way intersection. Main road bears to the right. YOU GO STRAIGHT AHEAD. 12 miles to rt.29 at Slanesville, WV. Cross rt.29 on Cold stream rd. to Capon Bridge, WV. This route saves a lot of time over going to Keyser and out U.S.50 to Capon Bridge.
check it out on a map.
 
G.B. in MT. posted some good stuff. You might want to save that and, maybe, print it out and laminate it for future quick reference.
My '48 runs good after I rebuilt and timed my distributor. It seems to be running a bit rich and bogging down on top end. Carb was rebuilt and screws were "ballparked" about where they were. So, I'm gonna use these instructions and get into the carb adjustments for my own piece of mind. Good luck with yours.
 
I go that route Springfield grade road I got the compression checked 75 80 80 85 1234 in that order engine ice cold if it matters next time you get to mannington call I'm retired home most of the time 986-3163
 
the question is reference to hills or mountains to you flat landers going up and down or side ways how will it affect the fuel level in the float bowl or not compression is 75 to 85 psi how bad is this
 
(quoted from post at 09:36:00 02/06/13) the question is reference to hills or mountains to you flat landers going up and down or side ways how will it affect the fuel level in the float bowl or not compression is 75 to 85 psi how bad is this
b:1749cc568a][i:1749cc568a]
xring;
1st question.......Now that you said you re-set the floats to 1/4", and IF you did not bend the floats from side to side, JMHO....the float level will NOT be any big factor, going up, down, or side hilling, UNLESS you don't use the "N" with common sence on too steep a hil!!!! THEN, you would have a roll-over situation, and NOT be worrying about the fuel level!!!!!!!!!!!! :lol: :shock:
2nd. question...... You now have to do another compression test, because you did the first one with an "ICE COLD" engine.
again......the FO-4 Manual, tells you how to do a compression test....engine at operating temp....., and also tells you what the min. compression should be!!!!
AND, what may be any problems with the test report. (LOW Compression #s...etc)

If you have an up-dated FO-4......152pages......go to page 25, paragraf 22,....for the proper compression testing.
If you have the older version......you will have to look it up in the books index, to find out where to read up on it.

Hope this does not tic ya off......if it does I can always, stop trying to help ya!!! :)

Respectfully
Gary (GB in MT) [/i:1749cc568a][/b:1749cc568a]
 
thanks for the info I only have a CD my manuel hasn"t arrived yet and the CD is mostly for the 8N I don"t mind being picked on my wife does all the time so join the crowd all in good fun but is the compression acceptable
 
(quoted from post at 13:38:20 02/06/13) thanks for the info I only have a CD my manuel hasn"t arrived yet and the CD is mostly for the 8N I don"t mind being picked on my wife does all the time so join the crowd all in good fun but is the compression acceptable
b:0c7b36baa4][i:0c7b36baa4]
xring;
Not an athority on being a mech., here, just trying to give ya some info., to help out!!!
Given, that the #'s were done, with the engine stone cold, with no lube/very little lube on the rings,....JMHO, is that with the exception of the 75lbs on #1 cyl, those #'s would be acceptable to run, but NOT up to spec's.!!!
With that said,....I am thinking that a compression test taken, when engine is up to running temp., and with a little lube on the rings and valves, yer #'s will come up conciderably, .....( the #'s Just MAY come up, to very acceptable levels, and NOT be below the 'minimum acceptable limit' OF 90psi. per cyl.!!!)

Hope that you will receive your manual soon, as most of the info you will need, is in that manual!!!!

Let us know if you need more info, before it gets there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Be glad to help you, if I can!!!!

Good luck with your endevores!!!
Have an "N" day!!!!
fordtractor.gif


Gary :wink: [/i:0c7b36baa4][/b:0c7b36baa4]
 
(quoted from post at 00:50:25 02/05/13) carb float is 9/32 some say 1/4 I live in north centeral WV also would this affect high speed sputter

NO,,, if it did you would have a fuel flow issue that would also show up at 1/4"...
You need to eliminate one are the other (fuel are ignition) jumping around will get you no were...
 

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