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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
Show Parts for Model:

Re: 9N oil pump bushing

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Bulldozer

02-02-2013 05:43:43
24.165.92.6



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When installing the oil pump kit, pressed the split bushing into the hole with a the side hole lined up with the drift hole in the pump housing used for lubrication.

The machine shop used the same machine as used for the rod bushings to ream the split bushing to size for the driver gear. About .01" had to be removed on the wall of the bushing to fit the new pump shaft.

The reamed split bushing hole was not exacly centered and about .003" offset towards the driven gear shaft.

With both gears installed the gear teeth clear the housing, but two teeth have some sliding noticable friction when rotated by hand. The other teeth have no noticable sliding friction.
Hoping the the two teeth will "run in" when the engine is first started.

Agree that a new separate non split silicone bronze bushing drilled, bored and reamed on the lathe is the preferred method, since assured of concentricity.

Toss the the split bushing supplied with the kit.

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russb wa

02-02-2013 10:03:57
67.185.6.72



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 Re: 9N oil pump bushing in reply to Bulldozer, 02-02-2013 05:43:43  
And the $50 question is why do only 3 of the gear teeth hit the housing.Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see



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TheOldHokie

02-02-2013 08:33:32
74.110.76.253



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 Re: 9N oil pump bushing in reply to Bulldozer, 02-02-2013 05:43:43  

Bulldozer said: (quoted from post at 09:43:43 02/02/13) When installing the oil pump kit, pressed the split bushing into the hole with a the side hole lined up with the drift hole in the pump housing used for lubrication.

The machine shop used the same machine as used for the rod bushings to ream the split bushing to size for the driver gear. About .01" had to be removed on the wall of the bushing to fit the new pump shaft.

The reamed split bushing hole was not exacly centered and about .003" offset towards the driven gear shaft.

With both gears installed the gear teeth clear the housing, but two teeth have some sliding noticable friction when rotated by hand. The other teeth have no noticable sliding friction.

Hoping the the two teeth will "run in" when the engine is first started.

Agree that a new separate non split silicone bronze bushing drilled, bored and reamed on the lathe is the preferred method, since assured of concentricity.
Toss the the split bushing supplied with the kit.


The manufacturing tolerances on those cheap offshore silicon bronze sleeve bearings are all over the place. If you ream them on a lathe prior to pressing them in the ID will shrink due to the heavy interference fit and the resulting hoop stress in the bearing wall. You won't even be able to fit the shaft into the bushing. Setup on a mill using a coaxial indicator is trivial and I always ream the bushing after it is installed in the housing. Its's the only way that works. :twisted:
TOH

PS> Don't buy cheap import co-ax indicators. This one didn't last much longer than this job - the Blake that replaced it is worth every dollar I paid for it.




This post was edited by TheOldHokie at 08:42:53 02/02/13.

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russb wa

02-02-2013 11:22:26
67.185.6.72



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 Re: 9N oil pump bushing in reply to TheOldHokie, 02-02-2013 08:33:32  
I had forgotten about the split bushing, which I would still consider reaming on a lathe with a collet chuck. No setup, just a tool change.
One of the best tool for my 9x20 lathe modified lathe kit from the land of almost right, was my ER32 collets and chuck, opened up the lathe possibilities, rechucking etc. With accuracy to 0.0004 (four ten thousandths), hold fragile tubing tightly with out crushing, no slippage. So good, I got a chuck for the mill, use the same collets. ER32, collets are cut with 16 contraction slots giving each collet a range of about 1/16" hence Extreme Range. 12 collet set will reach down below 1/8 up to 13/16. Brilla Precision Tools, BPT. But they are not cheap.

I still wonder about the squareness of the setup on the mill. You must have set the main cap in the vise with parallels. I guess you can run the tip of the indicator down the inside of the bush housing to check square. Also, deflection from the over hang, but it might not be significant with such a light cut.

http://www.birlaprecision.in/standard_products.html

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TheOldHokie

02-02-2013 14:03:20
74.110.76.253



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 Re: 9N oil pump bushing in reply to russb wa, 02-02-2013 11:22:26  

russb wa said: (quoted from post at 15:22:26 02/02/13) I had forgotten about the split bushing, which I would still consider reaming on a lathe with a collet chuck. No setup, just a tool change.
One of the best tool for my 9x20 lathe modified lathe kit from the land of almost right, was my ER32 collets and chuck, opened up the lathe possibilities, rechucking etc. With accuracy to 0.0004 (four ten thousandths), hold fragile tubing tightly with out crushing, no slippage. So good, I got a chuck for the mill, use the same collets. ER32, collets are cut with 16 contraction slots giving each collet a range of about 1/16" hence Extreme Range. 12 collet set will reach down below 1/8 up to 13/16. Brilla Precision Tools, BPT. But they are not cheap.

I still wonder about the squareness of the setup on the mill. You must have set the main cap in the vise with parallels. I guess you can run the tip of the indicator down the inside of the bush housing to check square. Also, deflection from the over hang, but it might not be significant with such a light cut.

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I'm using a 10HP/8500# Cincinnati horizontal mill with an optional 2HP Toolmaster vertical head mounted on the overarm. The head has an NMTB 40 spindle running on extremely high precision bearings inside a 4" quill. The reamer is chucked in the spindle using a top of the line Devlig/Universal Engineering Accuflex collet chuck and my work piece is solidly anchored to the stationary table with a 100# machine vise.

You are holding the work piece in an ER32 collet chuck mounted in the MT3 headstock spindle of your 250# Grizzly/Enco/HF 9x20 lathe. I presume you intend to mount the 8" long reamer in the 1" MT2 tailstock quill on the lathe and feed it horizontally into the spindle with the hand wheel.
And you are worried my clamping setup may be susceptible to deflections from a 2" overhang on the work piece?
TOH
This post was edited by TheOldHokie at 15:02:25 02/02/13 3 times.

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russb wa

02-02-2013 18:22:57
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 Re: 9N oil pump bushing in reply to TheOldHokie, 02-02-2013 14:03:20  
While the spindle has an MT3 female taper, the spindle nose is threaded 4x39mm with an indexing shoulder. The chuck blank was first threaded and indexed to fit the nose of the spindle, then attached to the spindle, machined, tapered and threaded for the closer nut, which was purchased, more difficult to make than the chuck. That the chuck was machined in situation on the spindle, it can only be mounted in the same position as it was machined.
This post was edited by russb wa at 18:26:02 02/02/13.

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russb wa

02-02-2013 16:18:05
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 Re: 9N oil pump bushing in reply to TheOldHokie, 02-02-2013 14:03:20  
And you are worried my clamping setup may be susceptible to deflections from a 2" overhang on the work piece? Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see



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Bulldozer

02-02-2013 20:15:33
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 Re: 9N oil pump bushing in reply to russb wa, 02-02-2013 16:18:05  
If there not so much bushing material to remove would used the old fashioned method.

Take 1/4" dia aluminum rod, make a hacksaw cut slot from the end about 1" long.

Take a strip of some emery cloth about 200# grit, place it through the slot.

Place the rod in an electric drill motor and start rotary sanding until get the correct fit.
That way you know the bushing is "honed concentric"



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