8N Split (Photos)

Colin King

Well-known Member
The '50 8N finally split for me. I discovered a mouse had made a huge nest inside the bell housing. I suppose it might have gotten through the inspection cover. Between mouse urine and rain over how many years this tractor sat abandoned outside, everything was badly rusted in the bell housing. The splines on the output shaft going into the flywheel are rusted enough that they kept binding while I attempted to separate the halves of the tractor. I thought I was doing something wrong...

https://nnalert.com/b3xms92</img>

Here's the clutch assembly.

https://nnalert.com/a236l6r</img>

Flywheel is pretty rusty. Should I have this machined or can it be wire wheeled clean?

https://nnalert.com/aq2pd8n</img>

I was going to have this rebuilt, but there's nothing salvageable in this.

https://nnalert.com/aozwa3a</img>

https://nnalert.com/b5ld4lw</img>

The clutch sliding mechanism on the output shaft was also seized up. I wire wheeled that and lubricated it with a heavy grease. I also got the PTO shaft pulled, the water pump and starter pulled and ready to send off for rebuilding, the ring gear off, and the valves and cylinders soaking.

All in all, it was a productive day in the shop.

Colin, MN
 
Looks like you had a productive day on what has turned into a big project.
As to the flywheel, I would have it machined and checked for flatness.
You could probably clean it up first and save yourself some labor cost.
I'd hate to put that all back together and have the clutch jump because it was warped.
Others may have different opinions and may have done more of these.
 

Colin, looking forward to seeing the "after" pictures. Looks like you have some fun times ahead on this one!
 
Hi Stan,

Here's a photo of my set-up. I have the engine cribbed with 4"x6" timbers. The front axle is shimmed with 2"x2"s to keep it steady.

When I took this photo, I was having a really hard time separating front and back. I was also feeling pretty gunshy so I but that jack stand under the engine side of the bell housing. It just got in the way and wasn't needed. In short, don't do what I did ;-)

The back was rolled away from the front on the jack.

Colin
Picture1485_zps7a60bb35.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 07:31:41 01/30/13) Thanks! Yea, this is a bit of a resurrection. I'm looking forward to getting my parts from YT :)

Colin
b:0f475f0bca][i:0f475f0bca]
Colin;
Looks like it is gonna be a little while longer, before we can get together on the phone, for your carb.!!!! You gots lots of dead bodies in yer clutch housing to bury!!!!!! :lol: :shock: :lol:

The offer still stands, to help ya clean up that carb..........just let me know when you are about ready!!! 8)
Let the carb wait, until you get the rest of the work done.......AND....you gots a bunch of that, to do!!!! :shock:

Gary :wink: [/i:0f475f0bca][/b:0f475f0bca]
 
:) It"ll be April before I can paint again, sadly. That should give me plenty of time to get this ole girl going, though.

Colin
 
Will do. Having never tackled this type of project before... do you think there is a possibility that the surface could be warped? Or, in other words, what should I be looking for to determine of machining is needed?

Maybe the best thing for me to do would be to clean it up and photograph it for ya'll to look at....

Colin
 
If that input shaft doesn't clean up good enough for you, keep in mind that I have extras. Angle or straight gear. Email is open.

My machinest will resurface an N flywheel for $30, but that's because I give him 3 at a time. I think he charges more (maybe $40?) for just a single. He likes me to install new ring gears BEFORE I have him smooth them off. He doesn't like to hear about people messing up his work with a sloppy mistake with a ring gear install.
Inputs.jpg
 
Colin,

I have a good used clutch disk and pressure plate sitting on my shelf i will sell cheap if you want to go that route. Thanks,
Keith
 
Thanks, Keith! I really appreciate the offer. My plan is to get a new disk and plate through YT. I have such a large order that the freight ends up being pretty negligible.

Colin
 
Thanks, Jim! I should be able to get it cleaned up, but if not, I'll certainly keep you in mind.

And thanks for sharing your experience on the flywheel resurfacing. Much appreciated!

I'll finally be putting that batch of parts you sent me to use on this one :)

Colin
 
Colin, in your last photo you can see where the tractor isn't coming apart lined up very well which can also make it harder to seperate. Not the gap at the top and bottom. When it goes back togeher it should be as close to perfect as possible to make it go better. One trick is to find long bolts that will screw into the engine side, cut the heads off, taper the ends and use them as alinement studs. Once it back in one piece you can just unscrew the alinement studs and put them away to use again as needed.

I always, always resurface a flywheel when I have a tractor split. Cost a little more but it's not going to give me any problems later. I'd wire wheel it before I take it in, replace the ring gear too from the looks of it. I really hate to have to do a split over.

Rick
 
Thanks, Rick! That's a great tip about the alignment bolts. I'll give it a try.

Stay warm! I've been hauling demolition material from our basement to the transfer station, but I don't know if the truck will start this morning. It was reluctant to yesterday and today it's much colder. At least the wind has died down.

Colin
 
(quoted from post at 08:21:40 02/01/13) Thanks, Rick! That's a great tip about the alignment bolts. I'll give it a try.

Stay warm! I've been hauling demolition material from our basement to the transfer station, but I don't know if the truck will start this morning. It was reluctant to yesterday and today it's much colder. At least the wind has died down.

Colin


Lucky you, I was on my way to Fargo at 5:15 this morning, showing -24F.

Rick
 

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