I"ve read some were made without sleeves. Are they visible in the bottom of the bore with the oil pan off?? I have 4 engines,and I want to rebuild one that was sleeved. Thanks
 
I don't think there were any from the factory without sleeves, a different approach in later years, and used flathead Ford pistons. And yes, you should be able to see the sleeves from the bottom (oil pan off --duh). There are two types of sleeves. You need the manual and some time to read - or you could check the 'Archives' above. HTH
 
I figured you could see them, but the first one I opened up, I couldn't. I've read and read, and a few places said some of the 2Ns came without sleeves, and steel wheels. The one I opened today was from a '48, but could have been made during the wartime conservation period. I guess I'll open up another one tomorrow. I just want a sleeved one to rebuild, for the ease and cheaper to rebuild next time. The engine is the original one to the tractor. I was hoping it was sleeved. When I pulled the oil pan I expected them to stand out, but after cleaning around the bore, it all looks like solid cast.
 
(quoted from post at 10:20:45 01/24/13) I figured you could see them, but the first one I opened up, I couldn't. I've read and read, and a few places said some of the 2Ns came without sleeves, and steel wheels. The one I opened today was from a '48, but could have been made during the wartime conservation period. I guess I'll open up another one tomorrow. I just want a sleeved one to rebuild, for the ease and cheaper to rebuild next time. The engine is the original one to the tractor. I was hoping it was sleeved. When I pulled the oil pan I expected them to stand out, but after cleaning around the bore, it all looks like solid cast.
the thin 040 sleeves can be hard to see if you are familiar with them. I bet they are sleeved. Easier to take the head off to check them also.
 
I heard if you have a star at the end of the serial# the motor has size 40 sleeves. A star at each end of # has size 90. Just what I read somewhere. If I am wrong I"m sure someone with more knowlege will corect me. Lots of luck and fun on your rebuild.
 
Hi Bill,
I am in the process of doing an inframe rebuild of my 1948 8N.
When I took the head off, the sleeves were really easy to see. Just wipe the top of the engine clean and they should stand out like a sore thumb.
Hope this helps !
 
I heard if you have a star at the end of the serial# the motor has size 40 sleeves. A star at each end of # has size 90. Just what I read somewhere. If I am wrong I"m sure someone with more knowlege will corect me. Lots of luck and fun on your rebuild.

A star at the beginning and end of the serial number means that the engine came with .040" sleeves originally. A diamond at the beginning and end of the serial number means that the engine came with .090" sleeves originally.
 
Hi Again Bill,
I determined that my 48N had .040 inch thick sleeves.
In the archives there was a set of directions for pulling .040 sleeves written by the Old Hookie. He suggested heating a red stripe down each sleeve with an ox-actylene torch to shink the sleeves. I did this and they really came out easy with a puller. It might be worth your time to read this posting over.
Hope this helps.
Thanks
 
Measure the bore. The .040 sleeves are removed , then oversized pistons are run in the block. When that was worn out it should be bored for .090 sleeves.
 

With the head off, it looks like it has .040s sitting about .040 below the deck. Does that sound right. Still looks like solid cast at the bottom though.
 
(quoted from post at 22:32:42 01/23/13)
With the head off, it looks like it has .040s sitting about .040 below the deck. Does that sound right. Still looks like solid cast at the bottom though.

No that does not sound right. Sounds more like the sleeves have been removed and you are looking at the counterbore in the top of the block. The sleeves should be quite obvious when looking from teh bottom. As Teddy said it is not uncommon to find engines that have been rebuilt by removing the sleeves and installing .080 over pistons in the sleeveless block. Measure the bore - should be 3.187 if the sleeves are present, 3.267 if they are MIA. You can measure that much difference with a good steel rule. If you have a block that was rebuilt using oversize pistons, and it certainly sounds that way, you will need to have it rebored for the .090 wall sleeves. Not a big deal and any good automotive machine shop can do the job.

TOH
 
More time and $$$. I was sure hoping it was sleeved. I thought they should stick out looking from the bottom. I didnt want to heat and start pulling on something that wasn't there. Looks to have about .030 ridge on one side of the cylinders, and two had a pit about the size of a dime burnt into the top of the bore with a matching hole in the piston. If the bore measures sleeveless size,I think I'll button this one back up for now and pull the pan ad/or head from another one this morning. Wish me luck.
 
I just went through the same ordeal. Mt sleeves were removed and had oversize pistons in the bare block. The pistons were stamped .083 on top. there was a pretty good ridge around the top of the bore were the lip of the sleeve used to set. Mine was worn bad enough that I had to put custom .125 sleeves from melling back in. It turned out real nice but it wasn't cheap
 
just went trough the same ordeal on a 41 9n. My sleeves were removed and oversized pistons were run in the bare block. The pistons were stamped .083 on the top and there was a pretty good ridge in the top of the bore where the lip of the sleeve used to go. Mine was worn bad enough that I had to use custom .125 sleeves from melling. It turned out nice, but it wasn't cheap
 
(quoted from post at 09:54:16 01/24/13) I just went through the same ordeal. Mt sleeves were removed and had oversize pistons in the bare block. The pistons were stamped .083 on top. there was a pretty good ridge around the top of the bore were the lip of the sleeve used to set. Mine was worn bad enough that I had to put custom .125 sleeves from melling back in. It turned out real nice but it wasn't cheap

I'm a little confused here. The difference in the OD of the .040 wall and .090 wall OEM sleeves is .100. Are you telling me your block was worn more than .100 and it could not be rebored for the OEM .090 wall sleeves?

TOH
 

This one did end up being sleeveless. I feel better now that I realize it wasn't just my poor vision. I have another that was running, but developed a bad rod knock. It's ready to go on the table tomorrow. I'm wondering if the first one will have enough meat to bore for.090s. Between the hole blasted at the top of the bore and a big landing ridge across from that. I'll save it for last.
 
If you can't save it I have the part number for the
.125 melling sleeves. Just get a good machine shop.
 
I'll keep that in mind. I'll measure and see. I have to pull the crank from that one for the second one. It has a rod bearing spun and is a rough .090 plus undersize on #4.
 

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