Well finally got the 51 back from the machine shop. Had new sleeves installed, oil pump rebuilt, block and head machined,new bushings in connecting rods, crank turned, new ring gear, flywheel resurfaced. All the good stuff, and not a bad price just under a grand with all new parts and labor. I did notice he did not fit the bearings to the rods or main caps so i believe we will plastiguage when we assemble then take apart and if everything measures up should be good to go? Anything i should watch out for or that might be troublesome when reassembling? Will be ordering a new clutch kit also. My only concern is it looks like the head was shaved quite a bit. Thanks
- Thread starter Lisa K
- Start date
Before you both the head down lay it on top of the block and spin it over. If it jumps your in trouble. Also put a light coat of grease on the pistons and valves then look at the head after spinning it over for traces of grease on the head. If you have grease on the head you may have a problem
Hi Lisa, Sounds like you are making progress. As others have said, check that head clearance. If the pistons hit the head, post back and we can help. I would definitely plastigauge the bearings just to be sure. When you put the bearings in place for the last time. Do the main bearings first and check for easy rotation as you tighten them in place, Then repeat for the rod bearings. That way if something binds up, you'll find it right away. Make sure to use assembly lube and don't forget the torque wrench.
Are you OK with putting in the rope seals?
Did your machine shop set up the valve clearance for you?
Make sure you get the valve timing right with the crank and cam gears.
Keep us posted.
Are you OK with putting in the rope seals?
Did your machine shop set up the valve clearance for you?
Make sure you get the valve timing right with the crank and cam gears.
Keep us posted.
Line up the marks on the crank and cam gear is correct. Double check it.
Did the machine shop grind the valves and/or seats. If yes, the valve will need to be adjusted. Do you have adjustable lifters or the older solid ones? In any case I would follow the manual and check the clearance.
Most of us oil the rope seals and press them into the groove with a large socket. Then trim the ends with a sharp knife or razor blade about 1/16" proud. I would search the archives on this, many posts on it both here on YT and on the other N Tractor board
Have fun.
Kurt
Did the machine shop grind the valves and/or seats. If yes, the valve will need to be adjusted. Do you have adjustable lifters or the older solid ones? In any case I would follow the manual and check the clearance.
Most of us oil the rope seals and press them into the groove with a large socket. Then trim the ends with a sharp knife or razor blade about 1/16" proud. I would search the archives on this, many posts on it both here on YT and on the other N Tractor board
Have fun.
Kurt
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
It has the adjustable lifters, he put new exhaust valve seats in. I guess it says valve job on the receipt so maybe he did.
Adjustable lifters is good news Lisa, If your shop put in an engine rebuild kit, he probably put in new valves and it sounds like new seats. That means you need to adjust the lifters. Do you have a good manual? It should show you how to adjust those lifters. It takes special, inexpensive tool, and about 1/2 hour. Not difficult, just tricky the first time.
i must have forgot to mention non of the parts were installed after the machine work. so we have a bunch of parts in boxes, the valves were in a different box than what they came in so i'm not sure. Yes we have two manuals so hopefully we can get it together. Is is difficult to time a side mount with EI?
Here is a link to the lifter adjustment tool you will need.
http://www.ytmag.com/8WR1770_6325.htm
Just take the reassembly of the engine one step at a time and ask questions. These engines were made to be rebuilt in the field by farmers. Nothing really difficult here.
http://www.ytmag.com/8WR1770_6325.htm
Just take the reassembly of the engine one step at a time and ask questions. These engines were made to be rebuilt in the field by farmers. Nothing really difficult here.
Colin King
Well-known Member
Sounds like great progress!
Colin, MN
Colin, MN
Olds grease on the valves and pistons is a must if you thing the head is shaved to much. When it comes to plasta gauge I put it at about 7 oclock position for the best reading. The best advice I ever got on a rope seal is to offset seal seam from the parts seam with a dap of sealant on the proud ends. Really cuts down on the chance of a leak. Have fun.
Make sure the rods all go back to the same cylinder and are in the same position (front & back)as they were before tear down, that the rod caps and main bearing caps are put back in the same direction and on the same rod/main. I am sure you have these bases covered.
If you have the proper measuring equipment, I would mike the mains and rod pins and compare them to the size listed on the package. The plastigage will also pick this up.
Sounds like you are doing a great job. Thanks for sharing with us.
If you have the proper measuring equipment, I would mike the mains and rod pins and compare them to the size listed on the package. The plastigage will also pick this up.
Sounds like you are doing a great job. Thanks for sharing with us.
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