Hopefully my '48 8N vids are here with some questions.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74gnkokE6wk, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=byyr-kDeS3s,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74gnkokE6wk

Hopefully these links will take you to my videos of my '48 8N.
I don't matter which order you play them. They are different views of the same tractor.
This is my '48 8N that I've worked on for the last 2 years off and on. It's sat for the last 25 or 30 years. A lot of stuff has been replaced and the fluids are all changed, too. Loose steering and no hydraulics are my only complaints yet.

A couple of questions: 1). What causes the popping in the exhaust and can it be fixed? It isn't normal is it? 2). Amp gauge acting OK? It never moves much. Is the fluttering normal? Battery seems to be staying up.
Anybody notice anything else that needs attention?
Thanks
 
My 2¢, the experts will be along shortly to
correct me -
Popping in the exhaust is a burnt valve.
If you turn the lights on and does it charge more?
Ya don't want it to charge too much.....
 
point are not set right with the dwell setting not right which cause a backfire and leak exhaust make it sound really bad too. replace amp gauge but before that if 6 volt battery hook up two headlight and start the tractor and running then turn on headlight and you should see a draw on the gauge don't replace.. but no action on gauge replace the gauge..
 
I've ruled out a burnt valve as the compression on all cylinders is about 100-105 lbs. Points are right on as far as I know. Timing may be off a tad. I'll have to check on that.
I'll do another compression test to be sure.
Amp gauge is original as far as I know.
Thanks.
 
Our 9N sounded EXACTLY like that and grandpa said burnt valve, ya never questioned grandpa. When we tore it down, sure enough-burnt valve. Took care of the popping.
Our 9N didn't have headlights so there was no real draw on the battery, only starting it. Had the genny set low so's we didn't cook the battery.
 
Bob, Your engine sounds great and normal. Seems like you have a minor exhaust leak. I wouldn't worry about it.

Ammeters can bounce a bit. The meter on my '49 8N will bounce like yours at idle, but will even out at higher RPMs.

Colin, MN
 
That exhaust leak may be the Chinese almost fits clamp that looks nothing like the original.
I got to apologize for the video quality. they are better quality here on my computer. They lost something in the uploading, I guess.
I'm gonna stay away from the carb tweakums for the time being. It was rebuilt and the guys at New Holland said they only ballparked them somewhere close to where they was.
 
I'll do another compression check and post back here on what I find.
I got a new wiring harness on the tractor but headlights aren't hooked up yet. Harness is a little tight in that direction.
 
Bob make sure you have firing order correct- you may have 3 and 4 crossed. 1-2-4-3 is firing order and cap has #s embossed on it. It will start and run with them crossed. A gauge is a gauge and only a gauge right or wrong. In one clip it seems ok in another it acts hokie so it just may be the gauge.
 
When the valve seats were ground, did they use a grinding pilot that fit in the block or did they pilot off the guide. Have you used a basic vacuum gauge to see if it had a steady reading?Were the valve springs checked? L head engine the springs lose tension .They get a lot of heat since 1948. Throttle shaft tight in the carb?
 
Which ever method the Ford factory used. To the best of my knowledge the engine is factory original.
It's sat in storage for the past 25or 30 years. Before that it belonged to a weekend farmer. Not much running at all on this engine.
 
Hi Bob, My mistake, I thought the engine had been rebuilt. I am a retired engine machine shop,magneto & carb rebuilder. I would say it runs good for setting that long. Put it on a plow or disc will tell you alot about it. Earl
 
I always thought the "popping" sound in the exhaust was normal 8N behavior since it is quite common. Last year the guy in California called "britcheflee" chased that sound until he got it fixed! Due to my oldtimers disease, I don't remember the cause or the cure. You may find it in old posts or he may come on here and remind us oldtimers what he found.
 

You should get a vacuum gauge. It is a great tool for tuning and doesn't cost that much.
 
Thanks everyone for the responses
I'll do some checking on the points, timing, and vacuum leaks.
I'll get a vacuum checking thingy as soon as I get to town.
Thanks again.
 

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