12 volt conversion on 1947 8n

I just had to replace the starter on my 1947 8n that had just recently been converted to 12 volt system. When I went to hook up the solenoid I noticed the one wire from the key ignition was hooked to right side of solenoid. Every diagram I have looked at shows both wires from the key ignition running to the regulator. It seemed to be working fine, but could this be why I'm now replacing starter? I understand there are multiple ways to hook up the solenoid, I just want to make sure this way is acceptable.
Thanks,
Tim

(quoted from post at 10:35:15 12/27/12) I just had to replace the starter on my 1947 8n that had just recently been converted to 12 volt system. When I went to hook up the solenoid I noticed the one wire from the key ignition was hooked to right side of solenoid. Every diagram I have looked at shows both wires from the key ignition running to the regulator. It seemed to be working fine, but could this be why I'm now replacing starter? I understand there are multiple ways to hook up the solenoid, I just want to make sure this way is acceptable.
Thanks,
Tim

Click to expand...

hould be from battery terminal side of solenoid to ammeter & from ammeter to terminal block 3rd terminal.

Tim.........one of the reasons to convert to 12V is the FASTER spinning of the 6V-starter motor on 12V for eazier starting of worn low compression engine. The 6V-starter motor does just fine on intermittent 12V starter duty. There is NO problem, connecting yer ignition ON switch to the right side of the 3-terminal starter solenoid as you described. Iff'n you connected to the left side of yer 3-terminal starter solenoid, yer engine would only run while pushing the BIG thumb starter button by the tranny shifter.

Remember, yer 30-0-30 ammeter was originally wired for positive (+) ground and will read BASSACKWARD with negative (-) ground that yer 12V-alternator demands. Iff'n still the original "loop" ammeter, just thread the ammeter wire thru the loop the OTHER direction, otherwize swap leads on back of 2-terminal ammeter. Surprizingly enuff, ammeter don't care, positive (+) ...or... negative (-) ground and even more amazing don't care iff'n 6V or 12V.

HOWSOMEVERS: both the original 6V-squarecan coil and the modern 12V-squarecan coil use the same "infamous ballast resistor".......NO ARGUE!!! ........Dell, a 12V advocate for the right reason, who knows 8-ways to convert to 12V and they all work the first time

Thanks Dell......so on the right side of the solenoid I got the ignition wire, positive battery cable, and wire from regulator coming from alternator. Left side is hooked to starter and small post in back is hooked to the push start button. Now all I gotta do is charge the battery and I should be good to go....
Thanks again.

Tim

post the diagram pic you saw where BOTH wires from the key switch went to the regulator...

Resister block not regulator....my mistake

Well. I got everything hooked up to the new solenoid and
starter, everything seemed to be correct when I connected the
battery. No sparks or engine trying to start before I hit the
button, but unfortunately when I did hit the button all I got was
a click. The battery is less than a month old, put it on a charger
and it doesn't seem to be taking a charge. I"ll drag it back to
Wally mart to day and exchange it for a new one. Does it
sound like I'm missing anything?
Thanks

(quoted from post at 10:29:41 12/28/12) Well. I got everything hooked up to the new solenoid and
starter, everything seemed to be correct when I connected the
battery. No sparks or engine trying to start before I hit the
button, but unfortunately when I did hit the button all I got was
a click. The battery is less than a month old, put it on a charger
and it doesn't seem to be taking a charge. I"ll drag it back to
Wally mart to day and exchange it for a new one. Does it
sound like I'm missing anything?
Thanks

Click to expand...

ure does sound like you are missing the ammeter or do not have ammeter wired correctly

ah-ha

Before the starter locked up and I replaced with new starter
and solenoid, all of the wiring was correct from ammeter,
ignition, push button, and starter. I swapped everything out
and wasn"t sure about the wire from key ignition switch going
to right side of solenoid cause all the diagrams didn"t show it
that way. Dell confirmed that it was ok to run that way. So it
looks like everything is back where it was before starter
crapped out. I"m hopping the reason I"m only getting a "click" is
due to bad battery, but I"m afraid it may be a bad new
solenoid. Heading to get battery checked now. I"ll keep you
posted. Thanks for your help and patience.

"OK" is sort of 'OK', I guess, but I don't see your ammeter telling you much, as it will not read either charging or discharging (load) current as wired, with alternator & ign both tied directly to battery side of solenoid.......but the tractor should run like that.
"Click" is most often a bad connection at one end of either battery cable, a weak battery, a bad cable, a bad starter with a good solenoid. If with a known good battery, you still have same results, after ensuring connections & cables, give starter housing a good solid 'whack' while holding the start button down. Sometimes this will temporarily gain brush to commutator contact when brushes/brush springs are shot.