Hydraulic Toplink

Fuddy Duddy

Well-known Member
Anyone ever use a hydraulic top link? I been using a dirt scoop that works great. Puts the weight on the rear tires where you need it when moving dirt. Problem was, Once full I would raise the 3 point and half to dirt would fall out. Seems if I had a hydraulic top link then I could roll the bucket back to help keep the dirt in it. I've got a FEL on the tractor. When I replaced the control spool I installed one with 3 levers. The FEL only uses one and a haft of them. So I've got a spare (and a half) for such needs. Make since? Also thought while working on the drive way, Wouldn't be a good idea to have the leveling link hydraulic too? As I was trying to make the center higher to help roll the rain water off. I kelp having to adjust its angle.
I believe these are good ideas. Just wondering if anyone else is doing this?. And if there would be any down side?
Keep thinking about such things and maybe I have my six foot blade working as as six way blade before I'm finished.
 
Doesn't sound like a bad idea to me--I don't have any implements that would need it, but that dirt scoop sounds like it could use it.

I wish my back blade was remotely controllable (in rotation, of course; up and down works fine with the position control). But since I don't have hydraulics at all, it would be a lot of work. And besides, I want about 300° of rotation in the blade, so there's no way a ram would work--it would need a motor and gears. But it would sure be nice to not have to jump on/off about fifteen times in the course of clearing snow from my drive to put the blade where I want it. Last weekend, when I was getting off to adjust the blade, I accidentally kicked it into gear, and the tractor started driving away without me! :shock:

-Paul
 
If you put a hydraulic top link on your tractor you will Never go back to a screw type.
Plow, back blade, rear scoop and especially a boom pole will all be handier with one.
I made my own. Bought a hyd cylinder on craigslist and welded the swivels from a screw type on it.

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I thought it would be a good idea. Just hadn't heard anyone talk about it. As far as the Back Blade, You could have a Lynch pin to release it when you needed to turn it around backwards. Got to jump off some time. Just not near as much. Anyone wanting to do it with out a FEL you can install a Hydraulic pump with out the loader. As for me, I think I'm going to go for it.
 
As far as the Back Blade, You could have a Lynch pin to release it when you needed to turn it around backwards. Got to jump off some time. Just not near as much.

True. But I find it's the switching from backwards to forwards is what I'm most often jumping off for.

-Paul
 
I use a hydraulic top link when using a slip scoop or box blade. It's the cat's meow for these implements and you will wonder how you got along without one once you have one.

One must be careful though with a box blade with rippers as one can puncture tires with the rippers if not paying attention.

If you buy one, be certain to get one with pilot operated check valves if you wish it to remain in position during use.

Dean

Dean
 
Best you stay home because if you ever come to see me your going to be back here so much that you will have to get a key to my place LOL. I have so much junk laying around and so many things I have built and played with and your question is just another thing that I have BTDT and figured out to many crazy thing to do with
 
Hobo,
No different than a screw type. Maybe quicker as you can slide the cylinder in or out to the right length to attach the pin.
You thinking about making one?
I know you too much of a cheap arse to buy one and that's a compliment by the way.
Expensive
 

I did not know you could slide if :oops: ,,, Theirs a possibility I may have to have one for my 3000,,, I took the loader off have the controls and a couple hundred to burn.... I will get you a few pix will need info on how to hook it up :wink:
 
"pilot operated check valves" That's a new one on me. Is that built into the cylinder or added in the line? Did a short Google search. and just got confused. I'll research some more once I have the time to do so. I of course understand how a check valve works on a well. But in Hydraulics the flow has to go both ways.
I guess the pilot operated check valve will add to the cost of a cylinder. Double the cost or what?
 
Pilot operated check valves are directly on the cylinder and the hose attaches to them. They are designed to reduce creep or drift in a cylinder they will also hold the cylinders position if the hoses were to burst. This assumes there is no bypass in the pistol seals of the cylinder.
 
Hook up is not a big issue as I use mine mostly on my 860 with the slip scoop, box blade or boom.

I can reach the lift and remote controls when installing the top link pins and can usually muscle things around a bit if necessary.

Dean
 
The check valves are mounted externally on the cylinder as part of the unit.

I bought mine two or three years ago. IIRC, I paid a about $275 for the top link assembly and an optional hose/connection kit.

Dean
 
Here is a setup that I use.

Used Fit-Rite Hydraulics and The Old Hokie for the remote ports.

Thanks to TOH for guidance.

Cheers,

Greg
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I paid $25 for the cylinder on CL and had a few extra screw type top links laying around.
Don't remember what I paid for the hoses, quick disconnects and fittings - maybe $60?
I might have $100 in it all together - not counting the remote valve.
 

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