Installing ballasted tires

Silly question, I'm sure...

So I just did a brake replacement. No questions or problems there. But now I have to remount the tires.

I didn't know if they were ballasted when I took them off, but they clearly are. (Probably only 1/4 full or so.) I had no problem getting them off without help. But now I have to get them back on...

I'm sure there's a technique to this--can anyone provide suggestions?

Thanks,

-Paul
 
If you took the tires off with the centers in them, just roll them up close,
turn the hub so the studs line up and raise/lower the jack until it will slide on.
Start a nut or two, jack it back up a tad, install and tighten all the lug nuts.
Easy to do if you have a helper that can run the jack.
 
Paul , I've taken off probably most of my tractors
, getting them off isn't bad if they are not
rusted onto the hub, I know your not asking that
question , to put them back on I roll them up
close leaning them against the hubs, then use a
lever ( maybe a fence post or anything solid ) put
a block or something under the lever and lift
until close enough to maneuver the stud in the
hole, start nut on stud , move the tire until the
rest fit. Good luck.

Stan
9N 222933
2N with 8N motor 8N345567
8N 146710
8N 179555
8N 197904
8N 199000
8N 254079
8N 362039
 
I do it the way Royse posted. Easy on the back. Just take it slow and if the tire starts to fall when rolling let it go. A portable engine lift is good for lifting a tire back up once it has fallen.
 
Best to call a friend-------or two. When they fall over you wont be able to pick it back up by yourself if it loaded.
 
use long levers ( shovel? ) and a piece of plywood and dish soap. keep em standing straight up and scootch them right up to the hub.. get 1 nut on and you are golden..

use a bottle jack onthe tractor so you can preciseliy line it up[.. but back it up with a jack stand within 1/2" of the bottle jack lift..

if anything shifts suddenly.. don't even think.. just jump back..
 
I use the technique Royse describes. Above all be
safe. To me that means having plenty of room to move
away if things shift. Use a bottle jack to adjust
the height of the tractor with the tire and wheel in
place. A second person helps but I do it by myself.
 
Since I got this lift, I wouldn't change another tire without it. Safe, one man job and easy on the back. It works with other color tractors too.

Larry
a89811.jpg
 
Larry,

I had considered something like that before I posted. If I can't get Royse's method to work for me, I'll be off to Princess Auto (Canada's version of Harbor Freight) to pick one up.

-Paul
 
(quoted from post at 17:21:04 11/20/12) Larry,

I had considered something like that before I posted. If I can't get Royse's method to work for me, I'll be off to Princess Auto (Canada's version of Harbor Freight) to pick one up.

-Paul
If you use a shop crane, make sure you have proper cribbing under the tractor,
as it looks like Larry does in his photo, and be careful not to let it swing.
That much weight can knock a tractor off a jack pretty fast.
I don't have any trouble doing the smaller Ford tractors by hand, but I could
see using a crane/loader/forklift on larger ones.
I used my cherry picker (similar to Larry's) to put the duals on my Case 930.
Good luck and let us know how it works out! :)
 
If you use a shop crane, make sure you have proper cribbing under the tractor,as it looks like Larry does in his photo, and be careful not to let it swing. That much weight can knock a tractor off a jack pretty fast.

Thanks for the tip, Royse. I hadn't thought of that. The tractor is on axle stands right now, with the jack still there (with minimum force on it to keep it properly engaged). I'm sure that's not good enough to keep it up if a swinging tire hits it... If I get the crane, I'll get cribbing, too.

I should be able to use your method, though. Especially if I get a helper.

-Paul
 
I got one too, but I didn't like the long legs, I made mine 3 point hitch .I've used mine for everything too ,

Stan
9N 222933
2N with 8N motor 8N345567
8N 146710
8N 179555
8N 197904
8N 199000
8N 254079
8N 362039
 
Well, Royse's tip worked great. A little finesse worked a lot better than the brute force I was trying before I posted yesterday. Lining up the hub with the wheel is a lot easier than trying to line up the wheel with the hub!

No need to buy a crane. Yet...

Thanks!

-Paul
 
(quoted from post at 06:23:49 11/21/12) Dang! I didn't mean to keep you from getting new tools! :lol:

No worries, Royse! Since bringing the tractor to the city a few weeks ago, I've bought:
battery load tester
hydrometer
brake spring tool
set of impact sockets
1-1/16" socket
3/4" drive breaker bar
6 ton axle stands
3 ton floor jack (actually, I bought that when I needed to put winter tires on my truck--but I would have had to buy it for the tractor anyway--my old floor jack is just too darned small)

And that's just tools--not counting parts for the tractor or the cost of renting a trailer to get the tractor to/from the cabin...

The crane will come, I'm sure. Just not this week. I'm a firm believer in having the right tool for the job at hand.

-Paul
 
I added 3 point connections on a 1 ton version and used it to pull shrubs. It only worked on the small ones. Put the legs back on and good for inside work too. The vertical straps bent so it needs to be reinforced. The 2 ton model is a better choice, but I went with 1 ton since the 2N can't lift more than that. Good for lifting heavy parts from the truck if you don't have a loader tractor to use.
Larry
a89929.jpg
 

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