HR, If I were going to make bushing to fit the wrist pins, I would not use the supplied bushings. Here is what I would do. First I would study the rods with a test bar to see if I could find any "unsquareness". You need to be pure of thoughts when pondering "truthiness".
If I were satisfied that the holes were parallel I would proceed as follows: Start with a bronze bar about 1/8 diameter larger than your finished od. Chuck with enough metal hanging out for ~3 bushings. Drill to within 1/8, bore to three thou undersized and "almost" finish with a brake cylinder hone.
Oh, you have to sneak up on your fits. You'd need to make up a "go, no go" bar with steps, to check yer hole and a sharp cutting tool with a small nose radius for boring.
Then turn and polish the outside to fit. Sneak up on the final fit checking with a stepped gage that you bored before starting. Then cut two bushings out of the middle length, discarding the ends, which are going to be bell mouthed from the hone.
Have to do the above twice.
Cut a five thou releif in the center of each bush about 20% of the length. That way the center can't be high, rocker.
You should at this point be about 5 ten thou under. Finish with made to fit soft aluminum or brass lap and fine compound, or a dowel and micron paper.
Much of the modern world is working off numbers. Many old time machinists did first class "fitment" without bothering to know exact dimensions.
You'd definately want to watch the side clearance on each rod when assembling the engine, well any engine. Check at 90 degree increments, feeler gauges if unsure.
You will be money ahead to pay the automotive machine shop to hone the bushing you already have.