Lisa K

Member
51 8n side mount converted to 12v..We picked up this tractor awhile ago, it had been sitting in a quonset for an unknown amount of time as the owner had passed. It appeared to have been serviced and then parked as the oil was like new. Anyhow first thing we did was put some atf in the cylinders. We were able to turn it over using a round metal bar on the nut. Did a carb rebuild, fixed the 12v conversion, rewired and so on. First bumped the starter button a few times with the key off. Everything sounded ok. No oil pressure while doing this. So we turned key on and she fired right up. Only ran it a few seconds as we got smoked out by the atf!! Started it again and thought we heard a noise so we shut it right back off. 3rd time we started it oil pressure came right up and let it run oh probably 45 seconds and realized we have a problem. Something somewhere in the engine was hammering. Any idea on what it would be. Sounded like from the lower side of the engine. Possibly towards the rear. Do things go bad just sitting for years? Am i looking at a whole rebuild?
 
If it were mine, I would do a compression test and if there is a low cylinder, take off the valve covers and check for a valve that is sticking part-open ...maybe cam/lifter is hammering on the valve stem. If there is compression on all cylinders, I would remover the oil pan and inspect the main and rod bearings. That should tell you what needs to be done next.
 
Start it holding the clutch pedal down. If you have no hammering noise then it is from the clutch back. If you still have the noise it is forward. Maybe as simple as the hyd /PTO sounds or could be other things
 
Hi Lisa,

Welcome the YT board. I left you message on the other board. But I got to thinking, If the hammering is coming from under your seat, it is likely the hydraulic pump. If this is the case, its not unusual. If the hammering stops with the clutch depressed, the pump is almost certainly the culprit.

My 8N hydraulic pump knocks all the time, especially under load. If the pump is working, it will likely run this way for years. I'd fix it when it quits.

If the hammering is from the engine, its likely engine rebuild time. Fix it now or loose the block.
 
It's from the engine, we disengaged the pto as the seal leaks and it's low on fluid, which we didn't wanna fill up till we knew the condition of the motor. We do have a spare pump if it turns out to be bad. Atleast we purchased it for 700 so we have some room to spend some money on it. i think we will be dropping the oil pan and removing valve covers to see if we can see what's going on. we never did depress the clutch, might have to start it one more time to see if the noise goes away.
 
check all dip stick see if she got water on them.. it should look like lt brown or white color in them sometime spit pea color that mean you have water mix with those oil you might want to change all oil and 90 wt transmisson oil but sound like you got water in motor or transmission ..if set more the 2 year there chance there is and you might have to fush two or three time until it get all bad oil out
 
Madam,
You are not gonna like my post.
The tractor got stuffed into the quonset shed because like scores of engines I have seen 'rebuilt' on this board the owner didn't do it right and it hammered noisely. So he shoved into a corner, dropped off the radar on this board and subsequently perished with the tractor being a disapointment at the end.
That's the bad news. The good news is the whole top end might be fresh and all you gotta do is regrind the crank and make the bottom good.
That's a lot cheaper than a full rebuild.
Dunno what your circumstances are - if you bought a pig in a poke or you aint bought it yet or the tin and paint and tires are nice but the motor hammers. Depending...
I wouldn't despise a tractor that hammers but I would adjust the price to suit.
I bought a tractor once that had the crank broke clean in half. It was a very good tractor otherwise but the crank dumped the sale price and I bought it accordingly.

P1010001.jpg
 
That's exactly where I would start too or even before that It wouldn't hurt to leave key off and just turn it over a few times to see if you hear anything without it running, maybe even using a piece of hose or tubing against the motor. just my opinion.

Stan
2N with 8N motor 8N345567
8N 146710
8N 179555
8N 197904
8N 199000
8N 254079
8N 362039
 
I guess you know you can't drop the oil pan unless you remove the hood and tank and the whole front axle?????????

I'm in the process of replacing the crankshaft on a 9N that was run without oil pressure when the oil pump lost it's prime because the gasket where the pick up tube is bolted to the oil pump was broken allowing air in the pump. Ruined one of the throws on the crankshaft.

Zane
 
Yeah i was doing some reading about removing the font axle. I would say the 3 times we started it it didn't even run for a minute total. the oil pressure came up on the 3rd start. we won't get around to tinkering with it till the weekend probably, the hood we already had off to clean the tank and rewire. so we didnt bolt it back on yet just set it in place. When we cranked it over without the key on we heard no funny noises in the motor. i will report back soon as we get to tinkering around with it!!
 
Ultradog MN, yes we bought it a few months ago. There is no cancer on any of the tin. Has ford script fenders, had the original air cleaner jar still on it, the rear tires were like brand new tread but some weather checking on some sort of custom made rim and way too big 14-26 or something like that, but we got the original rear rims and purchased a set of new 11-28 tires, one original tire and rim on the front, got the other original rim for the front, for 700. kinda makes me nervous as we purchased 2 other non runners to get going again. I suppose next time one should prime the oil pump first? It is our first with a side mount so we had planned to keep this one and sell 3 others. But i'm sure even if we do have to rebuild the entire engine we wouldnt loose money on the deal if we ever sold it. The proofmeter has just over 1600 hours on it, and yes the meter still works.
 
Hope you have better luck with yours than I did with the one I'm working on now.

Zane
 
Why. I do old dead tractors all the time and most of the time I do well. But then I do have a Farmall BA which I built form one junked A and 2 junked Bs so I have a one of a kind BA
 

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