2N Runs bad

46 2N 12 volt with wagner loader has always started great and until now ran great. Last wkend I worked it hard moving gravel over rough ground realy bounced it around as well as me, at the end of the day it started running rough and hesitating on throttle up and clutch release . Started it yesterday and had to choke it to get moving stalled it several times I thought I might have shook some crud loose in the fuel system so I replaced the screen in the sediment bowl and the elbow at carb. 5 gal in tank so I didn’t remove sediment bowl to check that screen. Gas flows freely from plug in carb filled a soup can in
short order. Still ran the same it has been 3 or 4 yrs. Since tune up so I replaced points .015 gap and set timing. Still ran the same. Today I pulled the carb cleaned with carb cleaner replaced the gasket between halves. Blew out all the ports. Set the twekums per the fo4 and it starded and ran great I backed out of garage no hesitation started in 3rd gear great and ran about 100 ft. then starded to stall I had to choke it to get back to garage.che cked fuel flow at plug right away seamed ok. Tried carb twekums slightly and thought it improved but it still hesitates.also cleaned and regapped plugs .025 plugs are champion h10c not the recommended al437 Any thoughts?

Flembo........the carb tweek-ums in the FO-4 are NOT even close. Set the down-pointing mainjet to 2-turns and LEAVE-IT!!! Set the side-pointing idlemix to about 1/4-turn and starter up. When warm, adjust the side-pointing idlemix for FASTEST idle NOT SMOOTHEST idle. Understand the difference???

NEW sparkies ALWAYS start eazier. While Champion H10C are equivalent to the original H-10's, AutoLite 437's are better as they self-clean the center insulator better. ........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

Thanks Dell as far as the plugs go I will pick up a new set of al437s tomorow and try them. right now the main jet is set at two turns and I will revisit the idle mix as you suggest. also I didn't mention I checked spark at # 3 and 4 with plug set at 3/16 gap good strong spark. Thanks again. Don

Next time it stops, check quickly for fuel then spark. When I say quickly, I mean get off the seat, grab the tools & do it right then. Do not wait a minute or two.

You still do not know if you have a spark or fuel problem.

While new plugs won't hurt a thing & adjusting the carb is needed anyway, you probably won't fix it.

So be prepared to check spark & fuel as soon as it stops running.

And get a plug checker when you go to buy the new plugs.

When you adjust the carb, make sure the tractor is at operating temp; that usually takes 10 – 15 minutes at idle depending on ambient temp.

Both Ford and Marvel/Schebler (assuming you have a M/S carb ) say to set both the side-pointing idlemix and the down-pointing mainjet to 1-turn as a starting point. I set the down-pointing mainjet to 1-1/2 turns and don't fool w/ it until the final step.

Then adjust the side-pointing idlemix for fastest idle; not the smoothest idle. Next, adjust the behind the carb idle-speed set-screw for very slow 400-rpms idle. Do that idlemix adjust for maximum idle at least 3-times. Make sure that you turn the screws slowly, like 1/8 of a turn at a time & wait a second or two for the engine to catch up. Take your time!

Do it like this:

1. Adjust idle mix jet until RPM increases

2. Adjust idle-mix set screw until the engine nearly stops (as slow as you can get it unless you have a tach that tells you 400 rpm)

Repeat steps 1 - 3 three times.

Remember the side-pointing idlemix is out for lean, in for rich.

If you do not have any problems inside the carb, it is easy to get the idle down to 350 - 400 rpms.

Your last step is to go back to the main jet. Remember, in for lean, out for rich. If you end up turning it OUT more than ½ turn for max power (remember, you already had it 1 ½ turns out) then stop right there because you have a dirty carb or a fuel problem.
75 Tips

My one 2N has not been started in quite awhile (3 years?) It had no spark so I pulled the dist. and plugs, al437. I set gap and timing but then found that the gap varied from one cam lobe to the next. Wha....? On closer examination I found that the dist. shaft bushing under the rotor was worn. Time for a rebuild.
Meantime, I pulled a dist off another tractor that has not been run in awhile. Put it on the bench to check it out and put it on the 2N. AH! Got spark. Now fuel issue. Old gas and probably need a carb cleaning. The hood comes off tomorrow to make things a little easier to get at stuff.
I put two gallons of the old gas in my almost full PU tank and two in wife's car also almost full. Help or hurt mileage? Oh well.

You do what you want, but taking the hood and tank off to do ignition and carb work seems a bit extreme. I know it's tight but if you hold your tongue just right and figure out the best approach and place to put your hands you can do it with less work overall.

that would be real extreme with a wagner loader.I can get at the dizzy thru the loader with some cussing but can be done. carb is no problem. Thanks Don

Yup. Extreme for just tune-up. I didn't mention that the tractor is very dirty from sitting for 3 plus years. Easier to wash all the nooks and crannies with the hood off. Also I'm going to replace some wiring that though functional is ugly red and yellow. Meantime, some paint touchup is in the offing. Mission creep.