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Re: delco 10si

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Paul in MN

11-04-2012 11:24:01

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I usually buy them from a local auto salvage yard (AKA: "junk yard"). The guy at the desk knows exactly what I want, looks at his pile for a recently rebuilt one, and the deal is made for $15 or $20. I have converted more than 10 tractors and trucks with these alternators, and have never yet found one that doesn't work. But if I do, he'll trade even up for another one. No core charge either because he normally sells to the reman people for less than 1/2 price of what I just paid.

I just cut out all the middle men, and probably made slightly less employment in Mexico city.

On our big tractors with lots of lights and electrical load, I usually use the Delco SI 12, sourced from the same place for about $5 more.

You do not need a 61 or 72 amp SI 10 for an 8N. Even if you have a new wiring harness, the lead going to the alternator is at best 10 gauge. If it is carrying 72 amps for more than a minute or so, it creates enough heat to soften or melt its insulation and the insulation of the adjoining wires in the harness. A few months ago I rebuilt the electrical system of a customer's tractor which had been burned and almost burned the tractor. Bottom line is a 39, 45, or 52 amp SI 10 is plenty of electrical power for any N tractor.

Best of luck in your change-over. The improved starting in cold weather, improved lighting, and long term reliability are great rewards for your efforts.

Paul in MN

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George Marsh

11-04-2012 12:54:44

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 Re: delco 10si in reply to Paul in MN, 11-04-2012 11:24:01  
If you can burn down a tractor because the alternator is too big for the tractor or alternator wires, why not protect the wires with a 30 amp auto reset circuit breaker? I did. Have never had any problems with circuit breaker.

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Paul in MN

11-04-2012 14:15:58

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 Re: delco 10si in reply to George Marsh, 11-04-2012 12:54:44  

Excellent idea, but 30 amps might be a tad small and trip out during a normal start-up with a low battery. I think I'll opt for the 40 amp CB, and by purely guessing, I think the wire harness is safe. We probably need to protect both ends of that #10, as the a short can occur anywhere between the dash and the alternator. If this short occurs (as with the customer's tractor), the wire softened became very floppy, melted the zip tie close to the alternator and then fell on the hot exhaust manifold. There is no way to stop that battery short without pulling or cutting a batt cable. But it will seriously burn your hand and fingers if you try to handle it without benefit of some tools.

I agree that this is a shortcoming of all N series tractors, and probably many others as well.

If the companies that make the aftermarket wire harnesses were to include a CB on this line from batt to alternator, it would save many tractors (and maybe some sheds) from this fierey death.

Paul in MN

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George Marsh

11-04-2012 18:09:40

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 Re: delco 10si in reply to Paul in MN, 11-04-2012 14:15:58  

I used a 10g wire from the alternator to the ammeter, so my 30 amp CB is under the dash before the meter. Used a 30amp for 2 reasons. First, it was the only one I had in my used parts box. Second, to protect 10g wire you should use a 30 amp fuse or CB.

I wired my Jubilee about 4 years ago and yet to have any problems. Lucky if my alternator produces 20 amps on start up. Had to replace the 40 amp alternator because the bearings went out. I went with a larger alternator. Still no problems with CB.

When I changed the alternator on my IH C, I used a 30 amp fuse on the alternator wire because I didn't have another 30 amp CB. NO PROBLEMS.

When I told people I was fusing the alternator wire, some thought I would have nothing but problems. Glad that you agree that alternator wires should be fused.


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