tn8n

Member
the previous post about alternators reminded me of a question i had. i wanted to get a delco 10si for my tractor, and i've been to NAPA, autozone, and o'reilly's to get one. at each place i got the same responses. "what is that? i've never heard of a 10si. we don't carry anything like that" i didn't tell them anything other than "delco 10si." at all three places they acted like i was an idiot, didn't know what i was talking about, or i was wrong about the name of it. they all tried to sell me a "similar" style that ranged anywhere from 99.0-130.00 dollars.

does anybody know the actual part number for it from any of those places or a vehicle that used it, so i can get the right thing? thanks
 
I bought my Delco from Auto Zone back in 2001 and the box it came in was marked "Valucraft" Remanufactured alternator. The part number on the box was 7127. Hope that helps
 
Off the top of my head I can not give you a part number but I can tell you this. Go to O'Reilly's and ask for an alternator that fits a 1980 Chev pick up no A/C no power any thing and that is what you want and if you asked for it they have them with a life time warranty for around $45 if you have a core if no core $10 more. By the way if they ask engine size tell them 350 with a 4 speed 2 wheel drive
 
I just priced one at AZ and Advanced and it was about $50-55 including core charge. Advance had a 20% off but I think it ended yesterday. They frequently have similar on-line only deals.

Oh the loca bigl mainstream auto parts house had one for $124.
 
If memory serves, 7127 is the generic Lester number for a 61 amp, three wire 10si. If your parts man cannot ID that number....find a better parts man.

Mike
 
For that price I can buy 2 10SI alternators from O';Reilly's and have a life time warranty so if it does stop working they will replace it for free
 
Thats a hell of a way to have to buy a part! If a store cant give you what exactly you ask for go to a different store. Have you got stock in Oreillys?
 
napa and carquest should be ashamed.

OI walked in to CQ and got one.. asked for a gm alt.. the manager asked me how I wanted it clocked.. ( ears ).. and i told him what would work.. and he reached abck and grabbed one off the shelf for me...
 
That is the easy way to do it so the people who may not be all that good can find the part I want. As for stock in O'Reilly's heck no but up till just this year it was O'Reilly's or drive 50 plus miles to find another parts store so it is them or nothing or wait a week or more for mail order. But in this local O'Reilly's the people have learned that they can depend on me coming up with the odd stuff so I have a few trained to find me what I need and sometimes they call me asking me where and or who or if I have
 
I usually buy them from a local auto salvage yard (AKA: "junk yard"). The guy at the desk knows exactly what I want, looks at his pile for a recently rebuilt one, and the deal is made for $15 or $20. I have converted more than 10 tractors and trucks with these alternators, and have never yet found one that doesn't work. But if I do, he'll trade even up for another one. No core charge either because he normally sells to the reman people for less than 1/2 price of what I just paid.

I just cut out all the middle men, and probably made slightly less employment in Mexico city.

On our big tractors with lots of lights and electrical load, I usually use the Delco SI 12, sourced from the same place for about $5 more.

You do not need a 61 or 72 amp SI 10 for an 8N. Even if you have a new wiring harness, the lead going to the alternator is at best 10 gauge. If it is carrying 72 amps for more than a minute or so, it creates enough heat to soften or melt its insulation and the insulation of the adjoining wires in the harness. A few months ago I rebuilt the electrical system of a customer's tractor which had been burned and almost burned the tractor. Bottom line is a 39, 45, or 52 amp SI 10 is plenty of electrical power for any N tractor.

Best of luck in your change-over. The improved starting in cold weather, improved lighting, and long term reliability are great rewards for your efforts.

Paul in MN
 
Paul,
If you can burn down a tractor because the alternator is too big for the tractor or alternator wires, why not protect the wires with a 30 amp auto reset circuit breaker? I did. Have never had any problems with circuit breaker.
George
 
George,

Excellent idea, but 30 amps might be a tad small and trip out during a normal start-up with a low battery. I think I'll opt for the 40 amp CB, and by purely guessing, I think the wire harness is safe. We probably need to protect both ends of that #10, as the a short can occur anywhere between the dash and the alternator. If this short occurs (as with the customer's tractor), the wire softened became very floppy, melted the zip tie close to the alternator and then fell on the hot exhaust manifold. There is no way to stop that battery short without pulling or cutting a batt cable. But it will seriously burn your hand and fingers if you try to handle it without benefit of some tools.

I agree that this is a shortcoming of all N series tractors, and probably many others as well.

If the companies that make the aftermarket wire harnesses were to include a CB on this line from batt to alternator, it would save many tractors (and maybe some sheds) from this fierey death.

Paul in MN
 
Paul,

I used a 10g wire from the alternator to the ammeter, so my 30 amp CB is under the dash before the meter. Used a 30amp for 2 reasons. First, it was the only one I had in my used parts box. Second, to protect 10g wire you should use a 30 amp fuse or CB.

I wired my Jubilee about 4 years ago and yet to have any problems. Lucky if my alternator produces 20 amps on start up. Had to replace the 40 amp alternator because the bearings went out. I went with a larger alternator. Still no problems with CB.

When I changed the alternator on my IH C, I used a 30 amp fuse on the alternator wire because I didn't have another 30 amp CB. NO PROBLEMS.

When I told people I was fusing the alternator wire, some thought I would have nothing but problems. Glad that you agree that alternator wires should be fused.

George
 

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