1954 Ford NAA

upnorthwi

Member
I appreciate everyone's thoughts and help.

There was a few replies to not take advantage of her, so we agreed on $800, though I probably could have got it a little cheaper. That'll give me a few bucks to figure out how I'm going to get it home. The tractor still even has the factory screen over the grill, perfect shape.

I am interested in any thoughts on the possible cracks in the castings, anything I need to look for and where?

Thanks everyone,
Tony
 
All concerns will be addressed when you get it running. That is the thing about buying something that doesn't run.

You could get it running and more than double the value, because then problems if any will be easily found out.

OTOH, if it started and a rod popped out the side of the block that would detract from the value.
 
I think you are referring <a href="http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ford&th=535785" target="_blank">to the post you made on the Ford Board.</a>
I think for the tractor you described you did real good.
Congrats.
 
You did well!. If it turns over, the tin is good and the tires are OK you got a real bargain.

You won't know about casting cracks until you get it running. At this point I wouldn't worry about it. I'd clean up the electrical connections, install new points, plugs, plug wire, condenser, rotor and cap, drain the gas, clean the screens, and put in a new battery and see what happens. You could even just try the battery, you might get luckly

If it starts, great. If not post post back and we can help!

I get my tractors home on a U-haul car carrier. Don't tell them it for a tractor, they won't rent it to you. Tell them is for a 1954 Ford. If they ask, its a Custom.

Keep us posted. Picture always welcomed - we love pictures.
 
Hi,

I stopped and looked at a U Haul car trailer
today, I heard they had ramps instead of a floor.

Will the NAA fit in the channels?

It doesn't look like it would be wide enough.

If you've tried it let me know, it'll make life alot easier.

Thanks
 
800's good.. but

and I'll say this again.

you took / are taking a gamble.

it's not 'taking advantage' of somebody to not pay top dollar for a NON running machine.

i've seen plenty of non runners I would not pay over 500$ for.. but I offered to get it running for the op for a small fee.. and if it ran.. then they could deduct that from the purchase price.. if no run.. I'd not charge.

thus a win-win..

heck.. I've fixed the steering on a tractor for an old guy down the road.. and I had no intention of buying it.. but he couldn't manhandle the spindles... a real win-win for him.. :)
 
Brought my 660 home on a U-Haul car carrier. Fit right on it. Take some measurements to be sure. Unless the wheels are spaced unusually wide you should be fine. I drove mine right on and strapped it down.

My heavy half ton pickup handled the weight OK. My 660 had loaded 13.6X28 tires and inside wheel weights, so it was really heavy. I wouldn't want to go much heavier on my truck.

BTW, a 660 just very slightly larger and heavier than an NAA. My tractor was well over 3500 lbs, plus the trailer. Easily 6000 lbs total. Don't pull that with an SUV.
 
I believe the NAA is 2800 and the trailer is 2200.

You wouldn't pull it with a 4wd Grand Cherokee?

I don't believe the tires are loaded.
 
Sounds about right for the weight on the NAA and trailer. Check your Grand Cherokee's weight rating. Most larger SUV's will handle 5000 lbs. Hitch weight might be marginal. The U-Haul car carrier has surge brakes, so that will not be an issue.

I've pulled 5000 lbs trailers with small V6 pickups without too much trouble. Just take it easy. Much over that and I want a V8 full size pickup, preferably with a load equalizing hitch. My old Ford F250HD, with a 460 V8 and a load equalizing hitch would pull an 8000 pound trailer all day with out bit of complaint. In a pinch it would handle 12,000 lbs.

Just my 2 cents worth!
 
With my Hemi, the curb weight is 4735, the gvwr is
6150, gross trailer weight is 7200, gross combined
weight is 12,200 and the tongue limit is supposed
to be 720.

If I figured right, I should be OK if the tires
are not loaded.

I only have to go about 40 miles, mostly country
roads and city driving, 1 hill up and 1 hill
down...each way.

I think I should be OK if I take it easy.
 
I think you sound OK. If you rent from a U-Haul store, they will check it for you. They have an on line system, you put in your vehicle info and it will tell you if you are OK. My biggest concern is your hitch weight. 700lbs on an SUV is really heavy and you will be close to that.

If you go to a smaller "mom an pop" type of U-haul place, they ask fewer questions.

Do you have a Class III receiver type hitch? If not, you will need one.

Whatever you, don't tell U-Haul its for a tractor. Their system doesn't have info on them and they won't rent you a trailer (Lawyers got to them). Just say its for a 54 Ford.

Realize you are very near your tow rating. Once you are on the road. Slow and easy - be safe. If you've never towed a heavy trailer before you will understand the term "tail wagging the dog".

Have you considered just renting a truck and trailer combo from U-Haul? It would take all the guess work out of this. And a lot easier on the nerves and safer too. Heavy trailers are best with heavy trucks.
 
if you've never pulled surge brakes.. go easy on the first few stops till you get used to them. they 'feel' different than electric brakes that actually pull a bit as soon as the pedal moves a hair.. unlike surge, that don't pull till the vehicle actually slows more than the trailer, thus compressing the brake cyl...
 
How far Upnorth are you and how far do you have to haul it? If you are in my backyard I might be able to help.
 
i towed my 8n funk with a u-haul on my honda odyssey back from ohio with no problems DO-NOT!!! tell u-haul it"s for a tractor. i told them it was for a 1964 mustang. had no problem then.
 
Thanks for the offer, but I'm in south eastern Indiana, Lawrenceburg. I wish I was upnorth. I need to haul it about 40-50 miles.
 

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