6v to 12v conv. question

Anonymous-0 · Sep 14, 2012

Hello everyone. My question is the following:
when I do the 6v to 12v conversion on my 8N Engine powered tractor, I plan on redoing ALL the ignition stuff(points,condeser, Dist Cap, spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, coil, etc.), apart from installing a 12v coil, do I need to be concerned about the other parts being 12 volt compatible? Are most of the replacement electrical parts(stuff I would buy from a catalog/website catering to N's)intended for a 6 volt system only? My gut tells me this is a silly question, but I want to be clear on what I need when I start ordering stuff. Thank you.

JMOR · Sep 14, 2012

coil is it as far as ignition is concerned.. Otherwise, lights.

Anonymous-0 · Sep 14, 2012

Awesome. Thanks very much!

David G · Sep 14, 2012

Coil or resistor for coil and lights. I would not change out everything at once. Do the 12V conversion, make sure it runs, then do the tune up. It is really hard to troubleshoot when you change more than one thing at a time.

36 Coupe · Sep 14, 2012

Why change all the ignition parts?

Anonymous-0 · Sep 14, 2012

Got it. Good point.

Anonymous-0 · Sep 14, 2012

I just figured it would be a good idea, so I could get a solid baseline. I have no idea what the age is of all the items currently on the tractor. Since they are maintenance items, and I'm converting to 12v anyway, just do it all at once. This rig runs, but it needs to be gone thru completely, from a mechanical standpoint, b/c I don't know how well it has been maintained.

old · Sep 14, 2012

8N engine can be front or side mount distributor which do you have??? Then we can go from there to tell you which way you need to go.

Dell (WA) · Sep 14, 2012

Karl.......we've all flunked mind reading, so you really need to tell us iff'n yer dizzy is the weird 4-nipple frontmount ...or... the 5-nipple sidemount. You can count nipples can't you???

Surprizingly enuff, yer points and condenser are good fer about 200V, so 12V is NOT a problem.

The other thing you need to do is make certain ALL lights are changed to 12V.

And remember, even the 4-nipple 12V squarecan frontmount coil needs the MANDATORY "infamous ballast resistor".....NO ARGUE!!! .......Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister who knows 8-ways to convert to 12-volts and they all work the first time

Anonymous-0 · Sep 14, 2012

side mount dizzy.

Anonymous-0 · Sep 14, 2012

Definitely have the 5 nipple version. Thankfully, no lights to mess with...I plan on adding those later(much later)down the road.

oldtanker · Sep 14, 2012

Karl, with the side mount you can use the 12 volt no external resitor required coil. Point and condenser don't really care about voltage. Add 12 volt lights and yer good to go.

Now if there are other mechanical issued....like low compression fix those problems first. 12 volt is an upgrade not a band aid.

Rick....with 2 N's converted to 12.....one IE.

Dell (WA) · Sep 14, 2012

Karl........for the 5-nipple 12V conversion, we recommend the NAPA IC-14 roundcan coil, NO RESISTOR EVER. ($18, cheap) And it has HOTTER sparkies too. ........Dell, sparkie-meister

Anonymous-0 · Sep 14, 2012

This is all fantastic info. Thanks so much for the speedy responses. The condition the tractor is in now is kind of: "where do I begin?" I have to have the radiator re-cored, the hoses are on their last legs, might as well get a new t-stat too...carb, I'm sure, could use a rebuild...plan on doing that, the outer jacketing/cover on the plug wires is cracked(2 wires are completely missing boots at the plug end). Don't know when the oil was last changed. This particular engine doesn't have an oil filter(which I found peculiar, until some fellow owners on another forum told me that it wasn't unusual). So, I'm going to plug away at these items just to get to where I can see what else needs to be done. Wish i knew how to post a pic, then you all could see what I'm up against(ha!). Looking forward to diggin into it regardless.

Ultradog MN · Sep 15, 2012

When you get done with your conversion you will have years of trouble free tractoring. At least electrically.
12V is the only way to go.

NoNewParts · Sep 15, 2012

your plan is fine,
but, like said, if you don't have a lot of engine/wiring/tractor
experience, just do one change at a time.
Besides, a test drive after every change is just fun,
and keeps your enthusiasm up.
When you go thru the distributor, check the condition of the
insulators where the feed comes in thru the side carefully.
common short area on a side mount.
If you are going to stay with points, buy good ones,
and the IC14-SB coil recommended.

NOXJohn · Sep 15, 2012

If you are going to buy a 12 volt conversion kit I would recommend the one wire kit sold by this site and/or nnalert. It comes with all the alternator, mounting hardware and a new wiring harness. The instruction are a little limited but it is the simplest installation possible. I have three 8Ns and have converted each with one of these kits. The first conversion is 4 years old and I have not had any problems. The tractor starts much easier especially in the winter.

Royse · Sep 15, 2012

(quoted from post at 00:46:36 09/15/12) This particular engine doesn't have an oil filter(which I found peculiar

I find that peculiar too Karl. Are you sure it doesn't?
Usually it's on the left side of the tractor inside a metal can bolted to the
engine block just in front of the serial number on the late 8N.
Its a drop in paper element filter, not a spin on like a car has.

Anonymous-0 · Sep 15, 2012

I agree, that is definitely the best way to proceed. I noticed one thing you wrote and would like to ask an additional question related to that...your last sentence above: "...if you are going to stay with points,...", my plan IS eventually(after 12v conv., cooling sys., etc.) to go with the pertronix ignitor. Is anyone running one of those? I have one in my Mustang(1967), and it is nice. Like I said, I got miles to go before implementing THAT upgrade, but just wondering...

Anonymous-0 · Sep 15, 2012

I saw those kits... they look to be right in my wheelhouse(from a simplicity standpoint).

Anonymous-0 · Sep 15, 2012

I'm positive It doesn't have one. Before I realized it didn't have one, I thought I was starting to lose it, b/c: "I just CAN'T find it...what am I missing?!!!". I even went so far as to buy one of those snazzy,machined, billet spin-on oil filter adaptors from the gentleman who sells them on ebay, and had to return it. The plumbing isn't there...there's definitely a boss in the engine block where the canister should go, but that's the extent of it. Full Disclosure: This IS a Worthinton "G", but it's is the 8N powered Worthington(engine, radiator, hood). So that probably would go a long way explaining why no oil filter(I don't know if EVERY Ford 8N came with a filter), but I would hazard they probably did. Some 8N Worthingtons had engines with filters, some didn't. I guess it was luck of the draw once the engines shipped to the Jake/Worthington assembly lines.

36 Coupe · Sep 17, 2012

You will find that some new parts are junk.Some new caps will break rotors/

Hobo,NC · Sep 17, 2012

Answer to yer next question...

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewtopic.php?t=713707&highlight=bracket

TISCO kits has the correct pulley don't settle for anything else....

I build my own conversion from scratch (piece it together from different parts) cuzz I know of no kit that suits me...

I use from TISCO

alternator mounts
alternator pulley #98-NAA5825
Alt belt
6V wiring harness for a side mount

alt I get from a parts store for a 83 chevy chevett... 75 chebby pick up will work....

JMOR has the info to use a 6V harness for 12 alt....

Anonymous-0 · Sep 17, 2012

I have replaced my points with one of the electronic modules. I think it was Pertronix but it was so long ago (about 9 years now) that I have forgotten. I have never had to touch it.

Anonymous-0 · Sep 18, 2012

Excellent info. Thanks!!

Anonymous-0 · Sep 18, 2012

I am DEFINITELY going to go that route after I convert to 12V. I did it to my '67 Mustang years ago, and it works great!

W_B · Sep 19, 2012

Karl Gant, what's a Worthington G?? Google was not my friend today on that one.

Anonymous-0 · Sep 19, 2012

W_B,
The Worhington "G" was the Model that came out commencing in 1950, and going thru 1960 or '61("G" was from '50-'53-ish, "G2" was from '54 thru '56-ish, etc.). Built at the Worthington plant(which was bought out by Jacobsen in '46, I believe)in Stroudsburg, PA. They moved the manufaturing to Wisconsin(Jacobsen Proper)in '61, and closed Stroudsburg, and I believe quit calling the tractors Worthington once they moved....
The "G" used 8N Engine, and 8N Sheet Metal(fuel tank, radiator, were 8N). Ford half-ton Truck front axle, 1 ton truck rear end, and a Ford truck transmission. Used a Ross/Ford Jeep steering box, and many other things I'm sure I'm leaving out. I beleive the only Proprietary(Worthington Buit/Manufactured components were the frame--4"channel--, wheel weights, front radiator support, etc.). The "G2" used Ford Jubilee Sheet metal, Red Tiger Engine, etc.
If you go on ebay, and do a search for "Worthington Tractor", you will see a red "G" on there with a tow behind turf vac hooked up to it. Can be yours for the bargain price of $4K!! I told the guy his price was a little steep almost 2 years ago(eventhough it seems to be in good shape)...he didnt seem happy with my comments, but there it still sits, 2 years later. They are great little rigs, with just the right amount of thoughfully mixed together components, so that they aren't too dufficult to find parts for even 60 years later. Low center of Gravity, and truck transmission=40 MPH on one of these, on a bad day!!

Thanks,
Karl

6v to 12v conv. question

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