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MrWoggins 08-06-2012 14:02:01 71.39.31.10 Report to Moderator	Came across and old 9n that has been sitting for a few years, needs tires, grill, few other misc items. It is sitting outside and has moss and lichens growing on it. Oils all are clean and up no water, engine is free, radiator is good, sheetmetal is good but missing rear fenders, has pipe type loader. Has magneto distributor. Any thoughts on value? Is $800 to much? Will bring over a battery and some gas and see what happens. Is a mostly complete tractor that needs a new home. [Reply]   [No Email]
Royse 08-06-2012 17:50:03 69.36.49.151 Report to Moderator	Re: 9n in reply to MrWoggins, 08-06-2012 14:02:01   Price varies by location obviously, but around here that wouldn't be too bad. Rear tires are expensive if it needs them, so expect that. If the loader is hydraulic dump that's a big plus for operation. Down pressure also a bonus. Here's a pic of a magneto I took at a tractor show. Let us know how it turns out! [Reply]  [No Email]
Bruce (VA) 08-06-2012 14:07:25 24.125.80.178 Report to Moderator	Re: 9n in reply to MrWoggins, 08-06-2012 14:02:01   " Has magneto distributor." Probably not. It's likely you are looking at a front distributor. Pull all plugs, add a cup or more of automatic transmission fluid (ATF ) or Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) in each cylinder. Pull both valve covers & soak everything w/ MMO or ATF. Scrub it all down w/ a wire brush. Remove the 15/16 hex nut to the right of the water pump. This is where your oil gallery is for the valves/lifters is. Don't lose the little spring under the nut. Use an oil squirt can to put about a cup of oil in here. Replace the spring & nut. Then, start looking for mouse/hornet nests in places like the tail pipe & carb breather hose. Once you get it to turn by hand, then change all the fluids (check tips 3 & 4 at the link below for info on the tranny/pump/rear end fluid change) Fluids include oil & filter, oil in the air cleaner, and 50/50 water & antifreeze. Grease all fittings. Replace the points, plugs, condenser, rotor & cap. If the wires are cracked & frayed, replace them as well, or you will spend days trying to find that one short. Clean all connections bright & shiny. Put a couple of tablespoons of oil in each cylinder to help lubricate the cylinder walls & increase start-up compression. Before you put the valve covers back on, coat everything again w/ oil . Clean the fuel screens in the carb & sediment bowl. Spray the carb good w/ carb cleaner. (Some people can get a carb to work like this after setting for years. Some people win the lottery. I have never got away w/ an old carb working; plan on a rebuild). Drain the gas or whatever is in the tank. Add at least two gallons of fresh gas & make sure you have a good flow by removing the bolt at the bottom of the carb. Keep some starting fluid or propane handy. You will need a new battery; it needs a good battery to power the ignition as well as turn over the starter. Just before you try to start it, prime the oil pump by removing the 15/16" hex nut again, & use w/ 90w gear oil this time. Spin the starter over (key off) & make sure you have oil pressure showing on the gauge. Remember, you filled the cylinders w/ oil, so it will smoke a lot when it gets going. Once you get it running, just let it idle for a few minutes while you check closely for leaks (oil, water, gas) & make sure it has good oil pressure. Then, it should be run at variable RPM. Internal parts that would normally have a film of oil have gotten dry. Run the engine up to around 1500 RPM and back down, put it in gear and make a few laps around the yard at various speeds. This will quickly get some heat into the oil and splash oil everywhere it needs to be inside the engine. Continue to watch for leaks, smoke or other problems (like no brakes). $800 is a very reasonable price for a 9N in that condition. Good luck & check back! 50 Tips [Reply]  [No Email]
MrWoggins 08-06-2012 14:32:45 71.39.31.10 Report to Moderator	Re: 9n in reply to Bruce (VA), 08-06-2012 14:07:25   I assumed it was a magneto, it was square looking, mounted on the very front of engine behind the fan, not a typical distibutor cap like I am used to. Have a little experience with aircraft magnetos and it closely resembles such. Regardless thanks for the quick info, guess Ill be loading up some tools, gas, battery and other stuff and go see what I find. [Reply]  [No Email]
HCooke 08-06-2012 16:54:55 70.195.64.208 Report to Moderator	Re: 9n in reply to MrWoggins, 08-06-2012 14:32:45   This is a front mount dist with the coil sitting on top of it. Two bolts to remove it. It can only go back on one way because of an offset tang which fits the cam shaft. Point gap is .015. [Reply]  [No Email]
Bruce (VA) 08-06-2012 14:36:41 24.125.80.178 Report to Moderator	Re: 9n in reply to MrWoggins, 08-06-2012 14:32:45   Just in case......... Check out John Smith's site for a picture of a magneto. Chances are 9 out of 10 it's a front distributor. John Smith's Site [Reply]  [No Email]
MrWoggins 08-07-2012 08:34:28 71.39.31.10 Report to Moderator	Re: 9n in reply to Bruce (VA), 08-06-2012 14:36:41   Well, damn anyways, I had to go and look at Don Smiths web site. Its definately a front mount distributor. Pretty sure Im going to have to buy it now and consider a full restoration. Sure are pretty little things when there all fixed up. Im sure you guys will be hearing from me again with more questions. This is my very first Ford. My grand father bought I believe a '42 brand new with steel. I remember when I was a kid riding on it with him. [Reply]  [No Email]