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Gordo83 07-26-2012 07:00:16 206.53.77.190 Report to Moderator	The last time I ran my 9N was in the winter plowing snow. I backed it in to the garage and had no more snow, Spring/Summer came and it's time to get wood. Tractor won't start. Here's what I've done so far. New points, condensor, rotor, distributer cap and coil. I can't even get this thing to pop on starter fluid. I'm thinking timing, but don't know why it would all of a sudden go out of timing. Could I have changed the timing when I put new points in? I marked it and put the distributer back in the same way it came out. I'm also getting good spark at all 4 plugs. How do I time it? Or does anyone else have a different theory? Any help is appreciated. Thanks [Reply]   [No Email]
Gordo83 07-30-2012 17:27:21 75.58.112.26 Report to Moderator	Re: HELP 9N won't start in reply to Gordo83, 07-26-2012 07:00:16   Dell, You"re the man!! Stuck rings were apparently the culprit. Followed your advice to the letter, other than leaving the ATF in a little longer until my gaskets came in, and after a few turn overs, she lit right up. Purring like a kitten, as they say. The only thing I did wrong was being a little anxious to try it out. I started it in the garage. Took a while to burn off the ATF and I couldn"t get it out of the garage due to all the tools and misc. objects in the way. Nothing a large pedestal fan couldn"t handle though, once I found it through the haze. Thanks Dell and all the folks that replied. Also, one more question for now. What are the normal turnouts for the two carb screws. I normally go in until it stops and back off 1-1/2 turns on a regular Briggs or any other small carb. On this one the large screw in the front of the carb was 3 full turns out and the little one on the side was 1-3/4. [Reply]  [No Email]
ZANE 07-26-2012 14:35:33 98.83.15.149 Report to Moderator	Re: HELP 9N won't start in reply to Gordo83, 07-26-2012 07:00:16   Are you sure you got the spark plug wires back in the right holes in the distributor cap?????? Zane [Reply]  [No Email]
Gordo83 07-27-2012 04:02:39 76.202.163.117 Report to Moderator	Re: HELP 9N won't start in reply to ZANE, 07-26-2012 14:35:33   Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Yes, I marked them with tape before I took them out of the old cap. [Reply]  [No Email]
Bruce (VA) 07-26-2012 10:09:09 24.125.80.178 Report to Moderator	Re: HELP 9N won't start in reply to Gordo83, 07-26-2012 07:00:16   " Here's what I've done so far. New points, condensor, rotor, distributer cap and coil." There are two schools of thought when it comes to getting a non-running tractor to start. One way is to just start replacing every part you can get to until it starts or you run out of money. The other way is to take a step-by-step approach to solving the problem, working from most likely to least likely. The trick to fixing these tractors (or trouble shooting any piece of equipment) is to be systematic about it. You need to isolate the problem step by step and work from most likely to least likely. You don't know if you have a fuel problem or a spark problem. And it's not a timing problem either. It is important for you to tell us if your tractor has a 6 volt or 12 volt electrical system. The troubleshooting is different based upon the configuration of your engine. It takes three things for an engine to run: spark at the right time, compression, & fuel in the right mixture. For the moment, forget about compression & concentrate on narrowing the problem down to spark or fuel. First, replace the plugs. If you flooded it, they're fouled & it will be it next to impossible to start. You don't need to toss them; heat the tips for a few seconds w/ a propane torch to burn off the invisible spark-robbing deposits from today's additive filled gasoline........or wash them in lacquer thinner. There are three very important tools you always need to have in your N tool box: a 3 inch piece of wire w/ alligator clips on each end, an old spark plug w/ the gap opened to at least 3/16” ( ¼” is better) and a 7/16 box end wrench. (see tip # 50 at the link below) And, you really do need a working ammeter on the tractor; it is a very important diagnostic tool. With these tools, you can quickly narrow down most N problems to spark or fuel. First, check for fuel. Get a can & put it under the carb. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb; as long as the fuel is turned on, you should see gas flowing out of the carb. Let it run for at least 30 seconds. If it’s a dribble, or runs for 5 seconds & stops, or none at all, you have solved half the problem: it’s fuel related. If gas flows well out of the carb & only stops when you turn it off at the sediment bowl, chances are very good it’s not a fuel problem. So, next, turn the key on, crank the engine & look at the ammeter. What is the needle doing? Does it show a constant discharge, no movement at all, or does it move back & forth slightly? Next, get the old plug, ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the engine, turn the key on & crank the engine. If the spark jumps the 3/16” gap, you probably don’t have a spark problem. If it won’t jump the 3/16” gap, you have a spark problem. If the ammeter needle shows a constant discharge, or doesn’t move at all, that also tells you that you have a spark problem. Jump the ignition switch w/ your jumper wire & see what happens. If it runs, you found the problem. If it doesn’t have spark after you jump the ignition switch, post back for more info on further troubleshooting. (and do not forget to turn the ignition switch off; see tip # 38) If it does not have gas coming out of the carb at a steady stream w/ the bolt out for at least 30 seconds, you have a fuel problem. First, remove the gas cap. Your vent could be clogged & it vacuum locked. If that doesn’t work, tap the carb bowl w/ a hammer handle in case the float is sticking closed. (don’t whack it w/ the head of the hammer; you can crack the bowl). If you still don’t see gas flowing, the N has three fuel screens; one in the brass elbow, one in the top of the sediment bowl & one on the stem of the sediment bowl in the gas tank. Check the screen in the elbow & the screen in the top of the sediment bowl. (don’t worry about the one in the tank) Both probably need to be cleaned. If you have the fuel knob turned on all the way, & 1 gallon or less in the tank, it may be trying to feed off of the reserve inlet which is probably clogged. Only open it 2 full turns. Put at least 2 gallons in the tank. (and do not forget to turn the gas off; see tip # 9) There are ways to check for spark & fuel that work & ways that don't. For example, having gas to the carb is nice, but having it past the float is what counts! That’s why removing the 7/16” bolt in the bottom of the carb is the way to check for fuel. And, same thing w/ spark at the plugs. Some folks think that checking for spark means pulling a plug wire off & looking for one. Well, it's the distance the spark jumps at the plug that gives you the info you want. It takes about 17kv to jump a 3/16" gap & 22kv to jump ¼” in the open air. Remember, it’s 14psi outside of the engine & about 90psi at a 6:1 compression ratio in the cylinders & compressed air creates electrical resistance, so you really need the 17-22kv to fire the plugs when the engine is running. A store bought plug checker will work better than an old plug because it won’t shock the snot out of you like an old plug might! 50 Tips [Reply]  [No Email]
Dell (WA) 07-26-2012 09:14:41 97.113.109.107 Report to Moderator	Re: HELP 9N won't start in reply to Gordo83, 07-26-2012 07:00:16   Gordo.........aint'chur timing. How do I know? Yer 4-nipple frontmount is held on by 2-bolts. You can NOT putter on outta time. ...plus... you report sparkies so yer points are working and not shorted out. (the most common cause of no sparkies) Keep yer itchy-twitchy fingers off'n them handy-dandy carb tweek'ums. They aint'chur problem. But OLD GAS gitts water in it and gums ups the works. Pour at least 5-gas of FRESH gas and letter settle the fines before you try to re-start. Iff'n it won't start/pop on ether quick start, you most likely have "stuck rings" and NO compression. Ford specs: 90psi min (dry). New engine is about +125psi. Pour about 1-oz of ATF down each sparkie hole and comeback tomorrow and dooitt again. (1-oz) Now with yer sparkies OUT, turn yer engine over with yer starter motor to spread yer ATF around. And on the 3rd day, NO ATF and putt'chur sparkies back in and with 2-turns on the under the tank valve, NO CHOKE, try to start yer engine. Report back ........Dell [Reply]  [No Email]
Gordo83 07-26-2012 09:32:18 206.53.77.190 Report to Moderator	Re: HELP 9N won't start in reply to Dell (WA), 07-26-2012 09:14:41   Will do Dell. I have to wait for a carb gasket anyhow, since mine ripped when I took the bowl off. I have the ATF. I also have Marvel Mystery Oil, if that is better. Will let you know how it all works out. Thanks [Reply]  [No Email]
old 07-26-2012 10:29:03 209.86.226.27 Report to Moderator	Re: HELP 9N won't start in reply to Gordo83, 07-26-2012 09:32:18   MMO is pretty much the same as ATF other then the smell. ATF smells bad and MMO smells almost so good that t=you might think about taking a drink of it. As for that carb gasket if you have an O'Reilly's auto parts store in your area they probably have a kit for it at around $20 [Reply]  [No Email]
Dell (WA) 07-26-2012 09:37:37 97.113.109.107 Report to Moderator	Re: HELP 9N won't start in reply to Gordo83, 07-26-2012 09:32:18   Gordo........while I personally like MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) many consider the cheaper ATF to be just as good iff'n not better. .......Dell [Reply]  [No Email]
Gordo83 07-26-2012 08:58:45 206.53.77.190 Report to Moderator	Re: HELP 9N won't start in reply to Gordo83, 07-26-2012 07:00:16   I forgot to mention the fuel part. I removed the carburetor to clean it and sprayed starting fluid right up the intake minifold and still couldn"t get a pop. [Reply]  [No Email]
old 07-26-2012 09:36:29 209.86.226.27 Report to Moderator	Re: HELP 9N won't start in reply to Gordo83, 07-26-2012 08:58:45   Stop throwing parts at it and do the simple trouble shooting first. #1 check for a blue/white spark that jumps a 1/4 gap. Of you have that check that you have fuel out the carb drain plug for a few minutes catching it to look for water and or dirt/rust. If you have both of those put about a 1/4 cup of ATF in each cylinder and let it sit 24 hours then spin it over clean the plugs and try to start it. By the way there is almost no way in the world for it to all at once jump timing so that is not your problem. Spark is the most likely thing your lacking [Reply]  [No Email]
Fuel,Air,Spark..John,PA 07-26-2012 08:50:41 209.163.118.179 Report to Moderator	Re: HELP 9N won't start in reply to Gordo83, 07-26-2012 07:00:16   Make sure you are getting fuel at the carb. If'n sat for a long period, probably have water in the fuel system from the NEW GAS. John,PA [Reply]  [No Email]
Mike Groom 07-26-2012 08:36:58 199.36.210.202 Report to Moderator	Re: HELP 9N won't start in reply to Gordo83, 07-26-2012 07:00:16   If you have fire and fuel,check your intake,(take the hose off to the carb)then either take the exhaust off or make sure it's not plugged,ran into that a year ago,mice built a nest so tight the tractor couldn't breath and would not start! The old potato in the exhaust trick!It had fuel and fire but no place for the exhaust so it wouldn't suck the fuel into the cylinder. [Reply]  [No Email]
Billie R. Smith 07-26-2012 07:30:17 69.245.108.151 Report to Moderator	Re: HELP 9N won't start in reply to Gordo83, 07-26-2012 07:00:16   Are you getting fuel ? [Reply]  [No Email]
JMOR 07-26-2012 07:03:23 99.105.24.57 Report to Moderator	Re: HELP 9N won't start in reply to Lamont7777, 07-26-2012 07:00:16   Quoting Removed, click Modern View to seeStop looking at timing. [Reply]  [No Email]