2n missing bad

just put new coil,points,con,rotor,,wire copper ones,,and a new carb x241 ond my 2n,,runs great at low speed but when i give it full throttle it misses,backfires and sparks shoot out of muffler ,dose it with the choke in or out and ideal what it is thanks cdv

check spark.. if -good-.. go with fuel.

post back.

Recheck firing order

good spark,,and good flow of fuel

(quoted from post at 12:17:32 02/19/12) just put new coil,points,con,rotor,,wire copper ones,,and a new carb x241 ond my 2n,,runs great at low speed but when i give it full throttle it misses,backfires and sparks shoot out of muffler ,dose it with the choke in or out and ideal what it is thanks cdv

Click to expand...

adjust carb at high RPM

flow of fuel.. where?

Most common problem here is that two of the cylinders aren't firing because the plugs wires are misplaced. Check your firing order 1,2,4,3.

6v or 12v?

Tell us how you are checking for fuel.

What did you set the point gap at?

Did you set the timing?

Check the firing order per the pic.

Adjust the carb.

Make sure the tractor is at operating temp; that usually takes 10 – 15 minutes at idle depending on ambient temp.

Both Ford and Marvel/Schebler (assuming you have a M/S carb ) say to set both the side-pointing idlemix and the down-pointing mainjet to 1-turn as a starting point. I set the down-pointing mainjet to 1-1/2 turns and don't fool w/ it until the final step.

Then adjust the side-pointing idlemix for fastest idle; not the smoothest idle. Next, adjust the behind the carb idle-speed set-screw for very slow 400-rpms idle. Do that idlemix adjust for maximum idle at least 3-times. Make sure that you turn the screws slowly, like 1/8 of a turn at a time & wait a second or two for the engine to catch up. Take your time!

Do it like this:

1. Adjust idle mix jet until RPM increases

2. Adjust idle-mix set screw until the engine nearly stops (as slow as you can get it unless you have a tach that tells you 400 rpm)

Repeat steps 1 - 3 three times.

Remember the side-pointing idlemix is out for lean, in for rich.

If you do not have any problems inside the carb, it is easy to get the idle down to 350 - 400 rpms.

Your last step is to go back to the main jet. Remember, in for lean, out for rich. If you end up turning it OUT more than ½ turn for max power (remember, you already had it 1 ½ turns out) then stop right there because you have a dirty carb or a fuel problem.

50 Tips

mess with it today again,,,took line off carb flow in gas can good non-stop flow,,the carb rebuit got it for Tom at external_link 241 this week,,did compresstion test 110-120 all 4 cly,,points gap 20 ,, new plugs ,,now are black corbon up,, dist shaft is good and tight,,mess with timing put it were was runnig best,,, runnin out of ideals thanks cdv

cdv.........you write......."points gap 20"......would it surprize you to learn that the 4-nipple frontmount dizzy points are supposed to be 0.015" and too wide gap will cause weak sparkies and missing??? Isn't that amazing???

You do know ittza 2-bolt, 15-min job to remove the weird 4-nipple dizzy and change and adjust the points on the kitchen table, don't you??? Just un-snapple yer capple and letter dangle. Installation is a reversal of the removal ...except... finger start yer 2-bolts and then install yer rotor and rotate yer rotor so the OFF-SET tang drops into the camshaft OFF-SET drive slot. Now tighten yer 2-bolts and re-snapple yer capple. Simple, eh?

Don't fergitt to "polish" the invisible corrosion from between yer points after installation. I clamp a clean $1-bill and puller thru. Iff'n yer really cheap, tear a strip of HEAVY brown paper grocery sack and use that. Iff'n you don't polish yer points CLEAN, you will have weak sparkies and hard running and missing.

Ennytime you have "starting issues", CHANGE yer SPARKIES...........NO ARGUE!!!!
Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025". Don't throw yer FLOODED sparkies away, just clean'n'dry them one-atta-time in HOT running engine and save'um fer the next time. (and there will be a next time) .........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

" points gap 20 "

That's wrong. Gap should be .015

" mess with timing put it were was runnig best,,"

That's pretty hard to do on a front mount distributor. You set the timing (correctly) on the bench w/ the distributor off the tractor. Tell us how you set the timing.
50 Tips

little bolt with a small plate on side of dist i move the plate up and down were i think it ran the best

You didn't set the timing like that. The timing is set by removing that screw and moving the plate inside of the distributor that the points set on.......and not the little tab.

First, check out tip # 39. You will save yourself a lot of time & aggravation w/ a set of manuals.

You need to pull the distributor to re-set the points anyway, so you should set the timing while it's off the tractor. Set the point gap first.

Make sure you are using quality parts; the points should have a phenolic rubbing block & not the cheap white plastic crap. Use only Wells, Blue Streak or Echlin brand points. (* see below) Be careful not to ground the tip of the condenser wire to the body of the distributor when you replace the points. Do not break the little copper strip that goes to the points. (If you do, make another out of the old set of points) Also, make sure the condenser wire does not go through the same opening in the distributor that the coil pig tail does. The condenser wire goes the opening on the top right. Look at the old points; are they burned, pitted or mis-aligned? Check the point gap, .015 on all four lobes. Make sure the blade is at a perfect right angle to the points & you want to feel just the slightest bit of drag when you pull the blade through the points. Set the points on the highside of the cam. Make sure you have the star washers under the screws on the points. Dress the points by running a piece of card stock or brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. And, don’t forget to lube the rubbing block w/ cam lube; not Vaseline, not bearing grease, but cam lube. (** see below)

Now, set the timing. Get a meter or test light, a 21/64” drill bit & a metal straight edge. Put the distributor face down w/ the condenser on the left & the timing plate lock screw on the bottom. Look at the end of the shaft: it has a narrow side & a wide side. Make sure you can tell the difference. Now, place the drill bit in the bottom mounting hole. (this will be your reference point for measuring) . Next, place a straight edge on the wide side of the tang on shaft as shown in fig. FO83 in the I&T FO4 manual. Rotate the shaft CCW (as viewed from rotor side OR CW as viewed from back/tang side) until the straight edge is ¼" beyond the outside edge of the drill bit you stuck in the distributor mounting hole. At this distance, the distributor points should start to open. (get your meter/light out now & check) If not, loosen the timing plate lock screw and turn to advance or retard the timing. (move the plate down to advance timing, up to retard) Remember, each one of those little hash marks represents about 4* of timing. Keep adjusting until you get the proper ¼" setting. (if the plate won’t move, you might need to remove the big C clip to loosen it a bit) As you’re adjusting, eliminate backlash by turning the shaft backwards (CW as viewed from the front) and bring the shaft forwards (CCW as viewed from the front) to measure your setting. This ¼" setting will get you static timing at top dead center.

After you set the points & timing, do a continuity check before you put the distributor back on the tractor. Before you start, make sure your meter/light works (don't ask....)

With the distributor still off the tractor, follow these steps:

1. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other on both sides of the open points. On the side closest to the cam, you should have continuity. Not on the other side! If you do, you will also have continuity everywhere because the points are grounded.

2. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity! Now, rotate the tang on the distributor....as the points open & close, you have continuity (closed) and lose it when they open.

3. Put the coil on the distributor, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other on the cam side of the open points. You should have continuity!

4. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity!

At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil mis-aligned trying to put it back together one piece at a time & the result is something gets broken or you get a ‘no spark’ problem.

It's possible to put it back on wrong & break it. Look at the slot on the end of the cam shaft. What ever angle it happens to be, turn the distributor tang to match it. Make sure you can tell the wide side from the narrow side on both the cam & distributor! (close counts) Then place the distributor on the front of the engine, gently push it in place & slowly turn the distributor body until you feel the tang slip into the slot. Rotate the distributor body until the bolt holes line up. Then, hand tighten the two bolts until the distributor body is flush w/ the timing gear cover.

Post back w/ results & any other questions.



* NAPA part numbers:

· Points: FD-6769X

· Condenser: FD-71

· Rotor: FD-104

· Cap: FD-126

** Distributor cam lube: http://www.autoanything.com/fluids-manuals-63-771-1978/201A1960.aspx?kc=FFPMM




50 Tips