Draft vs Position Control

I haven't had a chance to use my 8N much yet, but in the meantime I have been trying to read up and learn what I can. I'm still trying to wrap my brain around the difference between draft control and position control.
When I put the rear blade on next spring and blade my driveway, which setting should I use?
My previous experience with rear mounted blades on other tractors has been when the tractor wheel drops into a hole, the blade dips also and digs a gouge in the driveway. Likewise, if the wheel goes over a rock, the blade lifts and leaves a hump.
Is this what I am in for, or does one of these settings eliminate that?
Sorry if this is a dumb question. I've been driving tractors for 50 years, but never owned an 8N before. Drove one as a kid, but never with a blade on.

(quoted from post at 16:48:39 02/14/12) I haven't had a chance to use my 8N much yet, but in the meantime I have been trying to read up and learn what I can. I'm still trying to wrap my brain around the difference between draft control and position control.
When I put the rear blade on next spring and blade my driveway, which setting should I use?
My previous experience with rear mounted blades on other tractors has been when the tractor wheel drops into a hole, the blade dips also and digs a gouge in the driveway. Likewise, if the wheel goes over a rock, the blade lifts and leaves a hump.
Is this what I am in for, or does one of these settings eliminate that?
Sorry if this is a dumb question. I've been driving tractors for 50 years, but never owned an 8N before. Drove one as a kid, but never with a blade on.

Click to expand...

For blading your driveway use position control. That is what most modern tractors have and will be what you are familiar with.

The two different modes work like this:

[u:c7ded7fe06][b:c7ded7fe06]Draft Control[/b:c7ded7fe06][/u:c7ded7fe06]

Used for ground engaging equipment like a plow or cultivator. The top link on the three point hitch is connected to a feedback system inside the lift cover via teh large spring on the back. As the plow is pulled through the ground the plowing force is transmitted to the feedback system through that spring. When ground conditions cause an increase in the pulling force the spring gets compressed and causes the feedback system to command the lift up to reduce the pull (draft) on the tractor. When ground conditions cause a reduction in pull (draft) the spring extends causing the feedback linkage to command the lift down. This process produces a constant draft on the tractor allowing it to maintain the required traction to pull the plow through ground conditions that may vary considerably.

[u:c7ded7fe06][b:c7ded7fe06]Position Control[/b:c7ded7fe06][/u:c7ded7fe06]

Used for trailed equipment like a rotary mower. In position control the draft control feedback linkage is dosconnected and a second feedback linkage is engaged. This linkage receives feedback from a cam on th elift mechanism. When the 3pt arms are moved upward for any reason the feedback mechanism commands teh lift down to compensate. When teh arms are moved down for any reason teh feedback system commands teh lift up to compensate. Thisi allows the operator to set the height of the lift at intermediate spots on the quadrant and have it remain there.

TOH

(quoted from post at 16:48:39 02/14/12) I haven't had a chance to use my 8N much yet, but in the meantime I have been trying to read up and learn what I can. I'm still trying to wrap my brain around the difference between draft control and position control.
When I put the rear blade on next spring and blade my driveway, which setting should I use?
My previous experience with rear mounted blades on other tractors has been when the tractor wheel drops into a hole, the blade dips also and digs a gouge in the driveway. Likewise, if the wheel goes over a rock, the blade lifts and leaves a hump.
Is this what I am in for, or does one of these settings eliminate that?
Sorry if this is a dumb question. I've been driving tractors for 50 years, but never owned an 8N before. Drove one as a kid, but never with a blade on.

Click to expand...

OH explained, but I will add that neither will solve your wheel in hole gouge or wheel over rock hump....need a road grader to 'help' that.

(quoted from post at 20:06:21 02/14/12)

(quoted from post at 16:48:39 02/14/12) I haven't had a chance to use my 8N much yet, but in the meantime I have been trying to read up and learn what I can. I'm still trying to wrap my brain around the difference between draft control and position control.
When I put the rear blade on next spring and blade my driveway, which setting should I use?
My previous experience with rear mounted blades on other tractors has been when the tractor wheel drops into a hole, the blade dips also and digs a gouge in the driveway. Likewise, if the wheel goes over a rock, the blade lifts and leaves a hump.
Is this what I am in for, or does one of these settings eliminate that?
Sorry if this is a dumb question. I've been driving tractors for 50 years, but never owned an 8N before. Drove one as a kid, but never with a blade on.

Click to expand...

OH explained, but I will add that neither will solve your wheel in hole gouge or wheel over rock hump....need a road grader to 'help' that.

Click to expand...

That's exactly why I weasel worded my reply - "what you are familiar with" ;-)

TOH

Thanks, guys, for the replies. TOH, your explanation made more sense than any of the official stuff I've read. I appreciate it!
My driveway is fairly smooth, so hopefully the gouges and humps won't be too much of an issue, but I appreciate the clarification on that too.

TOH has it right.back blade is not the best actually for grading.I use a landscape rake more myself. I will make sugestion you may try. find a piece of about 4 or five inch i beam maybe six foot long. To each end weld a good chain about 4 foot long.put your 11 hole drawbar on tractor and use clevises through it to chains on your drag.drag that to level your road and it will float and fill the holes.by adjusting the lenght of chains you can turn rock one way or the other more to turn rock thats pushed to out side back into ruts,build up the center etc.if you want to get real fancy just build a three point frame to hook chains to and you can lift it when needed.

Use implement position. IMHO, my dad made the best driveway leveler using RR iron welded in a V-shape. I went one more step and made a self leveling 3-pt self-leveler using mobile home frame I beams. Used my woods mower's design to make hinges for lift arms to float. This is better than my box blade and back blade. It is also a green blade, all made from scrap material. Only expense was time and a few welding rods. I bevel the blade to pull gravel in from the sides and top and deposit the gravel in the tire track. This way I can crown the road and keep water from collecting in the tire track. Patient pending Also add block to I-beam for added weight. Works Great.
George

George

(quoted from post at 17:19:38 02/15/12) Use implement position.

Click to expand...

Implement position? Never heard of that. I sure don't have that notch on MY 8n.

Draft or Position. Plow or brush hog. They're all implements, right?