Traveller® Premium Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic Fluid

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Didn"t want to start a new thread about it and I appreciate the info in the last thread. But I wanted to get some feedback on this b4 I change the lift oil today.

I returned the extreme yellow pails and bought Traveller® Premium Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic Fluid. On the back it lists 134-D. Is this fluid correct for the 8n and a stupid question here but does the n have a wet clutch? I don"t think it does but....???? I read that some products well separate the clutch adhesives from the fibers thus ruining it. Please steer me in the right direction as I don"t have a New Holland dealer anywhere around here. Thanks.
 
No, it doesn't have a wet clutch. The only way a N will have a wet clutch is w/ leaky seals.

The fluid is fine; see tips 3 & 4.

And tip # 39 as well. A set of manuals will save you a lot of time & probably money.
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50 Tips
 
Hey thanks guys as I really appreciate it! I googled new holland dealers and called. Their 134 is like $78 and they said they have a More oil product and a UTF for $58. I mentioned what I have and they said it is good to go. Also, I checked the pail...sloshed it around after it sat outside last night and it was pretty fluid so it should be ok in the cold up here.

Now, I'll pull the drain plugs (in order from rear to front) and let it drain for a couple days and then pour some diesel in there. But do I just pour it through the inspection plate hole? On the pump itself? I can't pull it out so the "quick" method will have to do. Thanks so much!
 
For the quick clean, after you get the old fluid drained out (overnight is best) remove both inspection plates & start pulling the sludge in the pump base out by hand. Then, get a couple of gallons of kerosene or diesel fuel & pour it into the pump base. Catch it in a bucket & reuse it. (Some folks use a hand garden sprayer.) Flush the pump base out 5 or 6 times. Do not start the engine to run the kerosene through the pump; kerosene and diesel fuel do not have sufficient lubrication properties for a 60 year old hydraulic pump designed to be immersed in 90w gear oil. Some folks say it’s ok to start the engine, engage the pump for a minute or two, then turn the engine off. Your call on that one.

This 'quick-clean' is not as effective as dropping the pump & doing a full job. But if the choice is between doing nothing & the quick clean, spray it out. It worked for me for 3 years on my 1951 N. If you have the time, drop the pump; that is the right way to do it. I’ve done it both ways & don’t plan on doing the quick clean again. That’s because dropping the pump is not a big deal. If you have hard packed crud in the pump base, you are wasting your time w/ the "quick clean".
50 Tips
 
The lift works great until it gets down to about 20F or so. I'll be pulling sludge out then I guess. I plan on letting it drain for a couple days. Even thought of putting a hair dryer into the hole to "help" it. We'll see as the temp should be going up to about 35F in a couple days. Hopefully my week leak on the right hub doesn't turn into a gusher with the new stuff. I'll let you guys know how it turns out on the old girl. Again, thank you so much.
 

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