1948 8n, 12v, front dissy-carb leaking-float good, confused.

Eriklane · Nov 5, 2011

I posted earlier this week. Took carb apart-all is good-float is fine, all appears clean. Reassembled-did air pressure test by blowing into inlet in upright position-tight, no air getting in. Flip over, air gets in. Needle/seat thus, appears good.

Reattach, turn on fuel, tight, no leaks. Engine did start but after 30 seconds of cranking (motor always used to start promptly-was rebuilt 3 yrs ago-most parts new now including elect, etc). Ran it up the drive and back. Turned off, retry-wont start, leaks now out of bottom of carb.

I'm a carb dummie-what the hek is going on?

souNdguy · Nov 5, 2011

are the fuel screens clean and delivering clean fuel with no rust or debris in it?.

soundguy

GB in MT. · Nov 5, 2011

[b:c6cebeefc0][i:c6cebeefc0]
UHMMM, Eric;
You say.....:" Reassembled-did air pressure test by blowing into inlet in upright position-tight, no air getting in. Flip over, air gets in. Needle/seat thus, appears good."
What ya got there is, JMO, a set of floats that were imploded, when ya shot air into the empty bowl, and NOW yer carb is flooding due to the float needle staying open all the time.
Take the carb apart remove the floats and inspect them for dents in the sides......if NO dents, put enough water into a pan, to cover the floats....bring the water up to almost boiling and dip the floats under the water, .......hold the floats under for about 1 min., while checking for bubbles coming out of the floats.....if no bubbles visible.....lift the floats out of the water and shake themm hard next to yer ear.....if sloshing is heard...... ya gots BAD floats that leak and stay at the bowl bottom.

Floats at the bottom of the bowl.......float needle open
Floats in the up possition.....float needle closed

NEVER shoot air into a completely, assembled carb!!!!!

Reply back to let us know what ya find!!!

JMH guess!!!!!

Gary

[/i:c6cebeefc0][/b:c6cebeefc0]

Bill M. From Illinois · Nov 5, 2011

I might be wrong, but I think the float might collapse with air pressure applied to inlet thus causing float to be nonfunctional. Maybe some other experts can weigh in on this.

Mike Stegall · Nov 5, 2011

make sure the seat is super tight some times they leak around the seat at least thats what i read on one fellas website

GB in MT. · Nov 5, 2011

[b:7424daea7a] GOOD thinkin' BILL
I just beat ya that's all!!! :lol:

Gary 8) [/b:7424daea7a]

Den N Ms · Nov 5, 2011

Eriklane.If you used a blow gun and had a good bit of pressure on your air hose you could have collapsed the brass floats in the carb.One or two psi would be enough to test or just blow into the fitting with your mouth,then turn the carb upside down to test the float.Take the carb back apart and look at the float good.Also fuel could be leaking past the seat, be sure the seat has a gasket under it and it as tight as you can get it with a BIG wide blade screwdriver.

Dell (WA) · Nov 5, 2011

Eric........you write......."did air pressure test by blowing into inlet in upright position-tight, no air getting in. Flip over, air gets in. Needle/seat thus, appears good".......uh? think about that fer minute.

When yer carb is in up-right position, GRAVITY is gonna DROP yer float 'cuz you ain't gott NO GAS in yer bowl. and blowing air will whistle right by yer float valve 'cuz the float is dropped and pullin' yer needle valve DOWN.

And conversely, when you flipped yer carb UPSIDE DOWN, guess what??? GRAVITY is gonna cause yer float to press UP AGAINST the needle seat and seal yer valve. (that is unless yer standing on yer empty head)

You complain........"Turned off, retry-wont start, leaks now out of bottom of carb".......guess what??? yer float ain't floating UP to seal yer needle valve and yer FLOODING!!! There are several causes, collapsed float; un-tite valve seat; or most likely all yer jerkin'round has un-hinged yer float pivot.

And in all honesty, all yer complaints show a serious lack of mechanical aptitude. While us guessers pride ourselves in ability to solve many of the N-Problems, you haffta be able to follow directions. And all yer complaints imply sparkie problems, NOT carb problems. ........respectfully, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

36 Coupe · Nov 6, 2011

Friend did that to his float.It would help if questions were asked before doing some thing foolish.Common sense seems to be lacking.Ive found floats with gas inside them and plastic floats that absorb gas.I bought a chevy truck from a fellow who complained about poor gas milage.I found the vacuum advance wasnt working and the plastic float was sinking.Cost 16 bucks for new parts.

Eriklane · Nov 6, 2011

I didn't use an air gun-just blew with my mouth through a tube...

GB in MT. · Nov 6, 2011

(quoted from post at 18:47:00 11/06/11) I didn't use an air gun-just blew with my mouth through a tube...

b:30ddf7857a][i:30ddf7857a]
Eric;
In that case, yer floats are probly still OK,....altho, with the stated flooding prob., I would suggest ya check them anyway.
Gotta be some reason the carb is flooding......leaking float needle and seat, floats not set to 1/4" off of center gasket, ect.???????

GB :?: [/i:30ddf7857a][/b:30ddf7857a]

Eriklane · Nov 6, 2011

Also, I did check the float by simply lifting it and it was very light-not like it had gas in it...Put it this way, seems if a float is gonna be full of gas, and, after the carb is dripping, I immediately take the entire carb off, and lift the cover, and, the float is not full of gas, it's ok.

The float I have never adjusted-I did replace it last winter. When I hold the carb upside down, and inspect the float, it does appear basically flat.

I did tighten the screw as hard as I could. The needle seems very fine.

Oh yeah, Dell, you're right, I',m an imbecile. That's how I maintain 3 chain saws, 5 vehicles,(new CV joints on a 2006 taurus and on 2 Saturns, an exhaust redo, all without air tools and, usualy, on my back on the driveway in any weather) and, after rebuilding my motor 3 yrs ago having never done it, I was also able to take a non-running Ford F250, with a plow, and, get it all entirely working, and now it is my wood/plow truck. I got it free and did a carb rebuild (first time ever), rear axle seals, all new brake lines, new brakes front and back...I should stop. I'm too stupid to do much mechanically, I keep forgetting. Oh that's right, and the Husqvarna chain saw I got for 40 bucks, with poor compression, after I put a new ring in it, it runs great! Yeah, but, that was just dumb luck...Really, I am quite stupid, as you say...wish I was more like you Dell.

HCooke · Nov 6, 2011

I had a carb that gave me fits with a leaking needle
valve. Finally discovered that the seat that the
needle valve sat in was chipped and would not seal
with the gasket. Used an o-ring and problem solved.

Hobo,NC · Nov 6, 2011

(quoted from post at 01:21:28 11/06/11) I posted earlier this week. Took carb apart-all is good-float is fine, all appears clean. Reassembled-did air pressure test by blowing into inlet in upright position-tight, no air getting in. Flip over, air gets in. Needle/seat thus, appears good.

Reattach, turn on fuel, tight, no leaks. Engine did start but after 30 seconds of cranking (motor always used to start promptly-was rebuilt 3 yrs ago-most parts new now including elect, etc). Ran it up the drive and back. Turned off, retry-wont start, leaks now out of bottom of carb.

I'm a carb dummie-what the hek is going on?

If it won't start and you crank on it long enuff it will leak fuel out the do-icky in the bottom of the carb... Its a natural event to me on a updraft carb... On a no start it tells me the do-icky is not stopped up... It makes me mad cuzz I smell fuel and its not flooded...

If it leaves a small puddle and that's it nuttin is wrong with the carb,,, if it leaks and does not stop you mite look at the carb...

On yer no start if the plugs are not wet its notcher carb,,, all the fuel that got sucked up on the no start has to go somewhere,,, the do-icky is good for sum'n :lol:

Britcheflee · Nov 7, 2011

I would take it apart again and check that all is correct as far as the float hinge and spring is concerned (I think there is a little spring in there which keeps tension on it - also possibly the pin on which the float pivots might be sticking thus not letting the float move up or down freely? Dont get yourself too worked up about Dell's way of writing - I have been using this forum for many years and he gives good advice albeit in a strange and often jarring manner!

I still think a series of T shirts with his best one liners would sell well!!!

Lee

Eriklane · Nov 7, 2011

I never complained about his advice; why he demeans people is beyond me...I know better.

I see no spring on the diagram, I do see a tiny economizer jet which I have no idea where it goes, or what it does. I don't ever remember seeing it. Maybe that's my problem, but, I'm sure Dell will haul out the 2x4 and bash me over the head with such a STUPID comment as that.

JMOR · Nov 7, 2011

(quoted from post at 15:55:11 11/07/11) I never complained about his advice; why he demeans people is beyond me...I know better.

I see no spring on the diagram, I do see a tiny economizer jet which I have no idea where it goes, or what it does. I don't ever remember seeing it. Maybe that's my problem, but, I'm sure Dell will haul out the 2x4 and bash me over the head with such a STUPID comment as that.

he economizer jet is deep in a bore, hard to see, harder to access and to further complicate matters some version of the N carb didn't even have such a jet, just the bored hole that the jet usually resides in.

Sometimes he gives good advice, sometimes he is dead wrong, but will never admit it. He is the best "safety police" when it comes to over-run couplers though!

Britcheflee · Nov 7, 2011

Sorry, maybe was thinking of one of the other carbs I have been messing with over the past year!

Eriklane · Nov 9, 2011

I did a spark check and found a very weak spark. Must be points issue as the plugs are 3 hours old. I had suspected it as it started hard this summer last time I used it and had a pop pop occasionally during running...then wouldn't start after running it...

Will open the dissy soon and check/replace plugs.

leej · Nov 9, 2011

(quoted from post at 03:44:32 11/10/11) I did a spark check and found a very weak spark. Must be points issue as the plugs are 3 hours old. I had suspected it as it started hard this summer last time I used it and had a pop pop occasionally during running...then wouldn't start after running it...

Will open the dissy soon and check/replace plugs.

That is a start. Then work on spelling......as in distributor.

36 Coupe · Nov 10, 2011

I can spell distributor, carberator and condenser 3 or 4 different ways,Dosent matter any way.Mark Twain said it was a damn poor man who couldnt spell words in several different ways.

Eriklane · Nov 10, 2011

Took the points out tonight. Hmm. The part that bolts to the base-the point looked basically like a donut-big ole hole in the middle. I think I know the source of my weak spark now...hilarious.

36 Coupe · Nov 12, 2011

Never saw ventilated points before?

trouttman · Nov 12, 2011

(quoted from post at 19:13:55 11/06/11) Also, I did check the float by simply lifting it and it was very light-not like it had gas in it...Put it this way, seems if a float is gonna be full of gas, and, after the carb is dripping, I immediately take the entire carb off, and lift the cover, and, the float is not full of gas, it's ok.

The float I have never adjusted-I did replace it last winter. When I hold the carb upside down, and inspect the float, it does appear basically flat.

I did tighten the screw as hard as I could. The needle seems very fine.

Oh yeah, Dell, you're right, I',m an imbecile. That's how I maintain 3 chain saws, 5 vehicles,(new CV joints on a 2006 taurus and on 2 Saturns, an exhaust redo, all without air tools and, usualy, on my back on the driveway in any weather) and, after rebuilding my motor 3 yrs ago having never done it, I was also able to take a non-running Ford F250, with a plow, and, get it all entirely working, and now it is my wood/plow truck. I got it free and did a carb rebuild (first time ever), rear axle seals, all new brake lines, new brakes front and back...I should stop. I'm too stupid to do much mechanically, I keep forgetting. Oh that's right, and the Husqvarna chain saw I got for 40 bucks, with poor compression, after I put a new ring in it, it runs great! Yeah, but, that was just dumb luck...Really, I am quite stupid, as you say...wish I was more like you Dell.

You say you never adjusted the float? I think I would try to adjust it if it is flooding.

trouttman

1948 8n, 12v, front dissy-carb leaking-float good, confused.

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