Wiring Harness 1950 8N 6 volt

Jeff Mead

Member
I purchased a new wiring harness form my 1950 8N 6 volt. The old one (undoubtedly from 1950) was in very rough shape and certainly not color coded. I am concerned that I am not hooking the correct leads up to the correct posts. For instance the two on the generator, the three on the voltage regulator, and anything else. Can anyone suggest how I can assure that I am doing this correctly. The lenghts are all the same and the connections are the same size. If it helps I can attach pictures.
 
(quoted from post at 20:04:33 10/04/11) I purchased a new wiring harness form my 1950 8N 6 volt. The old one (undoubtedly from 1950) was in very rough shape and certainly not color coded. I am concerned that I am not hooking the correct leads up to the correct posts. For instance the two on the generator, the three on the voltage regulator, and anything else. Can anyone suggest how I can assure that I am doing this correctly. The lenghts are all the same and the connections are the same size. If it helps I can attach pictures.
enerator ought to have 3 terminals, not 2. Both front distributor & side distributor engines were manufactured/sold in 1950, so one needs to know what you have to begin. Next, colors differ, depending on where you got your new harness. Excepting colors, you surely can fine what you need here (link), but when you copy & paste to address bar, you must remove * before hitting ENTER key.
http://www.nt*ractorc*lub.com/howtos/howtos.htm


Look for, Wiring Pictograms, by JMOR
 
I went for the high end wiring harness. Cloth color coded and length of wires just right. 48 8n front dist with 3 wires to gen and 4 wires to regulator. You def need to say type of 8n setup you have.
 
here is pic
a50774.jpg
 
Even with several wiring diagrams and color coded wires I still used an ohm meter to check every wire and connection. Getting a good main ground on the pos battery line was big.
 
My tractor is a side mount distributor. Yes the generator has three leads, but one is longer and larger ID (that makes it obvious) and one of the four to the voltage regulator is also longer and larger ID. I bought the harness through Antique Tractors and was described as identical to the original.
 
Jeff-
Read JMOR"s post below and follow the link he has and you can get any wiring diagram you want. An original 8N Operators Manual and the I&T Manual have correct wiring diagrams with the color codes listed. Depending on who you got your harness from, it may not be correctly color coded so as Soundguy said, an OHM meter to check continuity is needed. Cheap, vinyl harnesses won"t be color-correct. Dennis Carpenter makes and sells the correct exact-as-original harnesses. Just 8Ns sells them also. They are cloth-covered and color coded exact. Lengths are perfect too. Some guys make their own.

Tim Daley(MI)
 
Jeff........I'm a certified missile and aircraft wiring harness maker and installer. I can NOT make a wiring harness as cheap as I can buy one. Unless yer a sphincterly challenged originality inspector rebuilding a trailer queen, DO NOT mucka'round with cloth covered rubber insulated "original" harness. Modern vinyl is so much better.

When I replaced the original harness on my 52-8N, my 10-yo son did the screwdriver work. (part of a Boy Scout merit badge reqmt) the harness wires were of the correct length, terminals the correct size, and color code matched the FO-4 manual. Piece'o'cake.

Iff'n yer new harness is NOT COLOR coded (and surprizingly enuff, electrons don't care what color the insulation is) use of an ohm-meter as an end-to-end continuity checker before installation is a wize thing to do.

Didja know the wiring harness's used on BOEING aircraft are ALL WHITE and have "printed" wire numbers on them for circuit identification. All flight test wiring is ORANGE for removal after airplane testing .......Dell, retired Boeing Flt Test Engr
 
I have el cheapo replacement harnesses on both my 8's & they work fine - fatter wire runs from genny arm to vreg arm connection and also vreg out (batt connection) to terminal block then ammeter and battery connection side of solenoid. Rest are all skinnier wires as they don't have to carry near as much amps as the charge circuit. You're on your own for light circuit - 14 stranded would work OK - I used 12 solid - don't want any voltage drop, or lights will be dimmer.
 
Yeah, I laid the old harness out on the bench and continually went back to it with an ohm meter to make sure I was hooking up the new harness correctly. Worked like a charm. Don't have to worry about colors.

Joe
 

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