Install Pertronix on 8N

(quoted from post at 21:12:13 06/11/11)
I have a front mounted distributor on an 8N,serial #8N-79164. I installed the Pertronix in the existing distributor and found an appropriate place for the new coil.The instructions indicate to run the ignition black wire directly to the ignition switch wire.My ignition switch has two wires, black and yellow, which I believe both presently goes to the resistor assembly. So where do I connect that black wire from the Petronix? And then what do I do with the existing coil power wire that is in the wiring harness and was connected to the original coil terminal?

As always, thanks for your help,

CM

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(quoted from post at 21:12:13 06/11/11)
I have a front mounted distributor on an 8N,serial #8N-79164. I installed the Pertronix in the existing distributor and found an appropriate place for the new coil.The instructions indicate to run the ignition black wire directly to the ignition switch wire.My ignition switch has two wires, black and yellow, which I believe both presently goes to the resistor assembly. So where do I connect that black wire from the Petronix? And then what do I do with the existing coil power wire that is in the wiring harness and was connected to the original coil terminal?

As always, thanks for your help,

CM

Click to expand...

(quoted from post at 21:59:37 06/11/11) You are welcome.

Click to expand...

(quoted from post at 10:48:50 12/06/11)

(quoted from post at 21:59:37 06/11/11) You are welcome.

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JMOR--another question in regards to the Pertronix wiring details. I have a '49 8N with the original 6V coil and have installed the Pertronix 1247P6 EI conversion kit. Based on your information it is now clearly apparent where the black wire needs to connected to the resistor block, thanks!!!. However, the Pertronix instructions indicate the coil be attached to ground, however you recommend leaving the coil wire not connected to anything. Are you assuming the coil has already been grounded? If so, couldn't the wire that is disconnected from the resistor block (the one going to the coil) be grounded in the vicinity of the resistor block? Just trying to think of future possibilities in the event I convert back to points.

Thanks!!

Eric

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(quoted from post at 08:54:40 12/07/11)
Copy and paste a reply to JMOR after (with his help) I got the beast fixed...

Confirmed igniter was pulling the coil to ground on command...
Checked with a lab scope and a test light... The trick is to remove the coil and you can access the brass screw to check switching...

I had the dist off on on so many times I lost count,,, did fix the dist so I could set timing at 0 TDC....

When I first checked spark it was good but while I have been working on it the coil was failing (spark got weaker),,, installed a new coil and it starts and run's with the best of them...

I did add a OEM resistor to the coil,,, it was pulling 5.40 amps with out it now its 3.5 amps... If the switch is left on it still pulls amps at the coil... ( so it will get a coil if you forget to switch it off...

Note the EI does not actually pull the coil to ground,,, Its more like 1/2 volt.

Click to expand...

(quoted from post at 14:14:41 01/09/12)

(quoted from post at 08:54:40 12/07/11)
Copy and paste a reply to JMOR after (with his help) I got the beast fixed...

Confirmed igniter was pulling the coil to ground on command...
Checked with a lab scope and a test light... The trick is to remove the coil and you can access the brass screw to check switching...

I had the dist off on on so many times I lost count,,, did fix the dist so I could set timing at 0 TDC....

When I first checked spark it was good but while I have been working on it the coil was failing (spark got weaker),,, installed a new coil and it starts and run's with the best of them...

I did add a OEM resistor to the coil,,, it was pulling 5.40 amps with out it now its 3.5 amps... If the switch is left on it still pulls amps at the coil... ( so it will get a coil if you forget to switch it off...

Note the EI does not actually pull the coil to ground,,, Its more like 1/2 volt.

Click to expand...

Well, it has taken me a while to get back to this post....now that the holidays are over, and since there has been NO SNOW in NE Minnesota I have not had to move snow--so no need to operate my tractor.

After installation of the EI module I measured coil amps with connection going across the resistor and measured 0.8 amps and 1.5 amps with no resistor--So I hooked it up without the resistor. I also replaced some rotten wires in the process. Note: I did not remove the coil to measure, just put the amp-meter probe on the coil post--maybe I should have taken it off(?).

After installation of the Pertronix EI module I was still having the same tough starting problem that I had before I removed the points. I checked spark at each plug and each had spark. Before starting it would crank and crank with an occasional pop. The pops would get more frequent then it would almost start, then idle roughly....then run and purr like it is supposed to.

Once I got it started it ran like a champ. When the engine was warmed up it would start right off. One of the immediate benefits I noticed was less smoke coming out of the tailpipe.

This morning I started it and had it idling in the shed while I put stuff away and all of the sudden it quit running. Now there is no spark. When I turn the switch key the AMP meter needle goes to the negative. So I figure the problem now is the coil, does that sound right? Could my tough starting be due to the coil that was slowly circling the drain and decided to give up the ghost today?

Thanks for all of your insights and inputs!!

Regards,

Eric

Click to expand...

(quoted from post at 13:39:29 01/09/12)

(quoted from post at 14:14:41 01/09/12)

(quoted from post at 08:54:40 12/07/11)
Copy and paste a reply to JMOR after (with his help) I got the beast fixed...

Confirmed igniter was pulling the coil to ground on command...
Checked with a lab scope and a test light... The trick is to remove the coil and you can access the brass screw to check switching...

I had the dist off on on so many times I lost count,,, did fix the dist so I could set timing at 0 TDC....

When I first checked spark it was good but while I have been working on it the coil was failing (spark got weaker),,, installed a new coil and it starts and run's with the best of them...

I did add a OEM resistor to the coil,,, it was pulling 5.40 amps with out it now its 3.5 amps... If the switch is left on it still pulls amps at the coil... ( so it will get a coil if you forget to switch it off...

Note the EI does not actually pull the coil to ground,,, Its more like 1/2 volt.

Click to expand...

Well, it has taken me a while to get back to this post....now that the holidays are over, and since there has been NO SNOW in NE Minnesota I have not had to move snow--so no need to operate my tractor.

After installation of the EI module I measured coil amps with connection going across the resistor and measured 0.8 amps and 1.5 amps with no resistor--So I hooked it up without the resistor. I also replaced some rotten wires in the process. Note: I did not remove the coil to measure, just put the amp-meter probe on the coil post--maybe I should have taken it off(?).

After installation of the Pertronix EI module I was still having the same tough starting problem that I had before I removed the points. I checked spark at each plug and each had spark. Before starting it would crank and crank with an occasional pop. The pops would get more frequent then it would almost start, then idle roughly....then run and purr like it is supposed to.

Once I got it started it ran like a champ. When the engine was warmed up it would start right off. One of the immediate benefits I noticed was less smoke coming out of the tailpipe.

This morning I started it and had it idling in the shed while I put stuff away and all of the sudden it quit running. Now there is no spark. When I turn the switch key the AMP meter needle goes to the negative. So I figure the problem now is the coil, does that sound right? Could my tough starting be due to the coil that was slowly circling the drain and decided to give up the ghost today?

Thanks for all of your insights and inputs!!

Regards,

Eric

Click to expand...

.8 and 1.5 amps sound more like "engine running average" amps than stalled/points closed/EI on current??? "Amp probe to top of coil" also sounds strange. Unless you have a contact-less amp probe (loop around wire), then an ammeter must have 2 leads and be installed in series with the wire carrying coil current. If 0.8 and 1.5 amps is in fact stalled current, then that is too low to start/run correctly.

Click to expand...

(quoted from post at 18:11:12 01/09/12)

(quoted from post at 13:39:29 01/09/12)

(quoted from post at 14:14:41 01/09/12)

(quoted from post at 08:54:40 12/07/11)
Copy and paste a reply to JMOR after (with his help) I got the beast fixed...

Confirmed igniter was pulling the coil to ground on command...
Checked with a lab scope and a test light... The trick is to remove the coil and you can access the brass screw to check switching...

I had the dist off on on so many times I lost count,,, did fix the dist so I could set timing at 0 TDC....

When I first checked spark it was good but while I have been working on it the coil was failing (spark got weaker),,, installed a new coil and it starts and run's with the best of them...

I did add a OEM resistor to the coil,,, it was pulling 5.40 amps with out it now its 3.5 amps... If the switch is left on it still pulls amps at the coil... ( so it will get a coil if you forget to switch it off...

Note the EI does not actually pull the coil to ground,,, Its more like 1/2 volt.

Click to expand...

Well, it has taken me a while to get back to this post....now that the holidays are over, and since there has been NO SNOW in NE Minnesota I have not had to move snow--so no need to operate my tractor.

After installation of the EI module I measured coil amps with connection going across the resistor and measured 0.8 amps and 1.5 amps with no resistor--So I hooked it up without the resistor. I also replaced some rotten wires in the process. Note: I did not remove the coil to measure, just put the amp-meter probe on the coil post--maybe I should have taken it off(?).

After installation of the Pertronix EI module I was still having the same tough starting problem that I had before I removed the points. I checked spark at each plug and each had spark. Before starting it would crank and crank with an occasional pop. The pops would get more frequent then it would almost start, then idle roughly....then run and purr like it is supposed to.

Once I got it started it ran like a champ. When the engine was warmed up it would start right off. One of the immediate benefits I noticed was less smoke coming out of the tailpipe.

This morning I started it and had it idling in the shed while I put stuff away and all of the sudden it quit running. Now there is no spark. When I turn the switch key the AMP meter needle goes to the negative. So I figure the problem now is the coil, does that sound right? Could my tough starting be due to the coil that was slowly circling the drain and decided to give up the ghost today?

Thanks for all of your insights and inputs!!

Regards,

Eric

Click to expand...

.8 and 1.5 amps sound more like "engine running average" amps than stalled/points closed/EI on current??? "Amp probe to top of coil" also sounds strange. Unless you have a contact-less amp probe (loop around wire), then an ammeter must have 2 leads and be installed in series with the wire carrying coil current. If 0.8 and 1.5 amps is in fact stalled current, then that is too low to start/run correctly.

Click to expand...

JMOR:

Amperage was measured using a standard volt-ohm meter, set for DC amps. With key on, engine not running, one probe was grounded to the frame and the other was held to the coil terminal. The 0.8 was measured when the coil wire was connected across the resistor and the 1.5 was measure with out the resistor.

This afternoon I removed the distributor and coil. Checked to make sure the coil was making good contact at the EI module and that the distributor cap spring was properly set. Re-assembled and have determined the coil is shot.

Eric

Click to expand...

(quoted from post at 17:39:58 01/10/12)
Wires: I only messed with two for the Pertronix install.

1. Wire from the EI module was connected to the resistor block, at the same terminal as the wire coming from the switch (not across the resistor and not on the block's middle terminal).

2. Wire from the coil was connected to the frame/ground.

As for measuring the amperage---I know just enough about electricity to be dangerous, so it is very likely my measurement was not correct. Any guidance you can provide would be appreciated.

Thanks!!

Eric

Click to expand...

(quoted from post at 19:24:39 01/10/12)

(quoted from post at 17:39:58 01/10/12)
Wires: I only messed with two for the Pertronix install.

1. Wire from the EI module was connected to the resistor block, at the same terminal as the wire coming from the switch (not across the resistor and not on the block's middle terminal).

2. Wire from the coil was connected to the frame/ground.

As for measuring the amperage---I know just enough about electricity to be dangerous, so it is very likely my measurement was not correct. Any guidance you can provide would be appreciated.

Thanks!!

Eric

Click to expand...

2. Wire from the coil was connected to the frame/ground. "

If you want to measure coil current, replace the wire you describe as 'coil to frame/ground' with the ammeter. That is, one ammeter wire to terminal on top of coil AND the other ammeter wire to frame/ground. Then bump starter (tiny incremental rotation of engine) until EI closes the circuit (you will know by the ammeter reading jumping from zero up to something around 4 amperes).

Click to expand...

(quoted from post at 10:25:57 01/11/12)
Most recent: Tractor was running/idling fine then just quit. There wasn't a sputtering like lack of fuel or flooding out more like when the key is switched off.

Previous problem (which led me to consider installing an EI module) was a cycle of progressively rough starting when it previously had popped right off. Points had been untouched for 6 years and I was seduced by the thought of switching them out for electronic ignition.

Click to expand...