Bad sleeves?

1948 8n MN

New User
Tore apart the engine, broke it down and this is what I found. Sleeve on the #3 was cracked and missing the lip on top. Upon tearing the tractor apart I found alot of wearable items that were in desperate need of atention.

My next question is: when I was cleaning the top of the pistions and valves off, I turned the crank to get them to the top of the block and #1 sleeve came up with the piston. Pushes up and down easy. This engine was rebuilt by a machine shop about 6 years ago top to bottom. Arent the sleeves suposed to be a tight fit in the cylindar wall or is that a little normal? Some one that has, and rebuilt there 8n told me that the slevees go in easy after you freeze them for a while and that the head gasket helps hold them down.
 
Sleeves need to be a tight fit, .001 interferance. The missing lip on sleeve #3 is the result of loose sleeves. If you had run it long enough the sleeve would have wound up in pieces in the base.

Mark
 
That is too loose. The head will hold it down but there is not enough heat transfer & that piston will run hot. Did the block get bored 6 years ago when these sleeves were put in? The bore needs to be .001 smaller than the sleeve.
 

That's a common problem with thin wall sleeves and one reason I will not use them... Bout all you can do is lock'em in with sleeve retainer goop...
 
Locktite makes a sleeve locking product that is designed to remedy that problem. Replace the sleeves with new ones because the old ones may be worn from moving in the bore.

If the engine still has the thin .040 sleeves you could have it rebored to receive the thick .090 sleeves then sleeve locking compound would not be needed if the machinest bores it properly with the .001 interference fit.

Zane
 

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