1948 8N starter broke-so, what's actually broken?

Eriklane · Feb 12, 2011

12v conversion, front dissy. Starter won't turn. Took completely apart. Brushes appear to be about 1/2 worn. All contact the rotor. I cleaned it all inside. No broken wires. Touch 12v to the brass screw and it turns just a tiny bit. Nothing seems visibly broken. I even polished up the brush contact area at the end of the stator.

So, what IS wrong?

souNdguy · Feb 12, 2011

were the field coils cut into?

soundguy

Eriklane · Feb 12, 2011

You mean the wiring on what I called the 'stator'? The large heavy thing that spins?

I noticed no damage and it's been working ever since I got it 3 yrs ago.

Dell (WA) · Feb 12, 2011

No Eric.......the field coils are the windings inside the barrel, NOT the armature which the brushes touch .......Dell

ZANE · Feb 12, 2011

Ude an Ohm meter to see if the field windings are shorted to the frame???? Can use a test light if no Ohm meter available. connect a jumber wire to the frame of the starter and the other end to one posr of a battery.
and then connect the test light to the other battery post. Touch the test light to the brushes that are connected to the field windings. If the test light lights they are shorted.

Zane

souNdguy · Feb 12, 2011

as dell said. the fields are insid ethe barrell.. they can get cut if the bushing/bearings go out.. or as zane said.. short together or to case..

soundguy

Eriklane · Feb 12, 2011

Measuring the case I get 1k ohm. There is no shorting of the fields to the case. The brass bolt that sticks out has connectivity to the 2 internal wires. The other 2 that ground to the case, all show 1k ohms.

Hmm...

I just noticed also that the entire inside of the starter barrel are all coated with a light red paint substance, including the stator windings; in some places, I do see some steel shining through...what the hek?

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn271/erikbroekhuizen/DSCN0163.jpg

teddy52food · Feb 12, 2011

Did you have nuts on the 2 bolts that go through the starter & have them tight? Also check those field windings where the bolts go through. If there is a bare spot, the fields are grounding to the bolt. Check the armature & field poles to see if it is dragging. (bad bushings)

Eriklane · Feb 12, 2011

Did you have nuts on the 2 bolts that go through the starter & have them tight?

When? On the tractor?

No bare spots anywhere.

Field poles?

Bushing?

lha · Feb 12, 2011

Take it to a Mom&Pop starter&generator shop,and they will look at it for You,and tell you what's wrong and how much it will cost.That will get You going,and stop the guessing.---lha

Bob · Feb 13, 2011

Take a REAL good look at the area where the field coil leads are soldered to the terminal stud.

teddy52food · Feb 13, 2011

I can tell you have no idea what makes a starter work. Take it to someone that does.

Eriklane · Feb 13, 2011

Well, that's why they call it 'learning' and why these boards are so important.

Asking questions is how people learn. I rebuilt my tractor motor and just put $1000 into an F-250 that was not running. It now is my work truck. I've been wrenching for 30 years. I'm not a master, but I get along just fine. I just never worked on a starter, and, the intricacies of electrical aren't my specialty.

But they appear to be yours, so, take this opportunity to outline what may be wrong here.

All i'm saying is that from appearances, this starter looks fine. There's not a lot to them. The solenoid is quite new. I just replaced the starter drive. All wiring appears solid. There's not much left to be broken, correct?

Field coils aren't replaceable are they? I see them offered nowhere.

Dunk · Feb 13, 2011

It appears to me that it needs an emery cloth ran on the commutator bad.

Eriklane · Feb 13, 2011

I have done that on the commutator and also the brushes and also the ends of the starter barrel to make sure it's got good electrical contact.

I think I'll reassemble it and re-test it...The armature end bushing seems fine.

Does anyone know why the armature is red?

Bob · Feb 13, 2011

"Does anyone know why the armature is red?"

Cuz it's painted with electrical insulating varnish that happens to be RED!

Dell (WA) · Feb 13, 2011

FYI.......the red varnish is called "Gyliptol". (I think I spelled correctly).......Dell

Brian Jasper co. Ia · Feb 13, 2011

You have some high resistance in there somewhere. A 6V starter should have about .2 ohms resistance. A 12V should be about .4 ohms. Find a starter/alternator rebuilder in your area.

Eriklane · Feb 13, 2011

I cleaned the brushes and commutator and it now works.

Bill(Wis) · Feb 14, 2011

That isn't like noassatol is it? Oh no, I just remembered. That's a contraceptive.

36 Coupe · Feb 15, 2011

You had better give up on starter repair.You wont find a 1K reading in a starter

1948 8N starter broke-so, what's actually broken?

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