(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

1948 8N - hub shot?

E

Eriklane

Member
If I push side to side on the rear axles, I get just a slight clicking sound-only in the left side. Does that always represent a shot hub or only if it gets to a certain point? It's not much...
 
It could also mean a loose nut . Get it up in the air & check nut tightness . I believe the hub nuts are to be torqued at 400 - 450 lb .If they are set tight , then it's definitely worn hub . Get yourself a service manual IT-F04 . Sorry I can't help more than that . Maybe others will jump in also . Post back . God bless
 
hub or axle is worn and nut has bottomed out.

3 things you can do:

1, nothing, it will wear more and you risk loosing the hub and axle, and the brakes and seals.. etc..

2, bandaid.. cut some strapping metal from the bands on a pallate and shim the splines int he hub to axle fit. torque down.. drive it some.. retorque, etc.. that will usually buy you time and is virtually free.

3, fix it right.. pull it apart and see if it is worn hub, axle or both, replace as needed. ( hub is soft cast, axle is hard.. usually hub wears more than the axle unless it goes along time..)

soundguy
 
Hi Folks-
In the same vein, how easy is it to strip the threads on the axle or 2" axle nut? Tightening up the nuts on the '50 and it got to feeling un-right, as if the threads were stripping. Needed to order a fuel elbow and gas cap, so I threw in a new axle nut for cheap insurance. Any thoughts?
Thanks for any replies.

Mike
Albert, KS
 
i would have bought a repar nut.. IE.. a 2part squeezum nut.. as the bad threads could have been on the axle too.. not just the nut.

soundguy
 
Thanks for that- I'll know a lot more when I get the parts in and have a look at the threads. A five buck part would be the cheapest $$$ I've thrown at the old machine yet if it dosen't prove to be faulty. Why wouldn't I have pulled it yet, you ask? I didn't want to disassemble and not be able to have the tractor mobile while I wait for parts. At least this way I can move it out of the shop under it's own power to do other things while I wait. Having to borrow the 2" socket and drive from the tool room at the srvc. dept. throws another worm in the can as well. Hopefully and from what I've gleaned from the archives the axle is much tougher than the nut.
Pretzel logic?

Mike
Albert, KS
 
(quoted from post at 15:57:13 10/01/10) Where exactly does it show the wear?
Click to expand...
f your "clicking sound" is coming from one axle bumping the other, then it isn't a hub problem. It is pretty easy/simple to see movement between the hub & axle/nut/washer if hub-to-axle interface is worn. This picture shows what happens in this case.....the hub & sometimes both axle & hub splines wear enough that given the taper design, the hub can slide further up on the tapered splines. This allows axle to protrude so far beyond the hub's edge that no amount of tightening of the nut will ever tighten the splines (wedge).
Hub_worn_out.jpg
 

Save yer money,,, those so called repair nuts are a P.O.S.,,, I challenge any one to try and tighten the P.O.S. to spec,,, it ain't possible....
 
picture esplains it perfectly-now I know what to look for. What I meant was where would I see signs of wear? My axle end on the left is perfect. Haven't had the right one out...Had lots of leakage in the past...found out last week it was not tight enough-reefed on it and its been dry now. Maybe my slight wear isn't enough to cause leaking, at least not in a week. Will watch it closely.
 
I agree, I tried one without success, like you say
P.O.S. mine was loose within 2 hours. My thoughts
are wonder :why they wouldn't have put a cotter
key behind the nut? I found that little spring
clips don't work well at all.
Happy Tractoring
Stan
1949 8N146710
1949 8N179555
1949 8N197904
1949 8N199000
1950 8N254079
1951 8N362039
 
I've had the same problem only on both sides. Both hubs were shot and the axles were worn. I replaced the hubs and shimmed them enough to tighten but I know it needs axles to "make it right" for hard use. For what I use it for, 20 to 30 hours a year, it will last a long time like it is. Gene
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
1948 8N steering
Replies
13
Views
637
Dan
D
zuhnc
Newly acquired 1948 8N
Replies
9
Views
2K
zuhnc
zuhnc
Tall T
Jube Rear Axle Hub
Replies
5
Views
336
Tall T
Tall T
That_guy
Need help with 8N Brake pedal alignment
Replies
2
Views
321
That_guy
That_guy
M
8n Brakes
Replies
8
Views
585
Hobo,NC
Hobo,NC
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top