1948 8N rear wheel seals

I have an 8n with just 1 set of seals-Redid everything last fall and its back to being wet with fluid.

Right side is dry as bone.

So, back at it again-In summary, there's this cork seal that you push down the axle spline, and there's the outer metal seal, that's it, right? The book shows a bunch of other stuff.

Anyway, I did do one thing that I wasnt sure of and that was to take the wide cork seal and slice it in half so it wasn't so big when you shove the hub on. I should have kept it its normal width. Is that the problem? Since obviously fluid sloshes around in the trumpets when you go on unlevel ground...

I did the Dell bottom bolt removal method...and do park on pretty level ground.

The seal itself is supposed to carry a cork gasket under it where it bolts to the bearing hub. I always use RTV silicone glue by 3M. instead. Cork ring behind the hub and behind the axle nut washer. I use RTV here too. Then of course the hub has to be tight on the spines. If it moves on the spline it will never hold oil.

Zane

"The seal itself is supposed to carry a cork gasket under it where it bolts to the bearing hub. I always use RTV silicone glue by 3M. instead."


Yes, I remember that little seal, and did replace it-its thin, right?

Cork ring behind the hub and behind the axle nut washer."

I don't remember seeing this in the book or on mine, prior owner put rubber seals where the thick cork one was behind the hub-they were all tor up.

"Then of course the hub has to be tight on the spines. If it moves on the spline it will never hold oil."

Mine is nice and tight and the ends are flush, everything checked out on the axle ends also, no wear...Lucky.

So, is it also possible that the big nut isn't tight enough? That I'm going to have to admit not actually torquing to 425 or whatever it is...Not really sure what mine is...

That cork gasket can be had in rubber, I know my last ones were.

The best totuorial is here

http://www.oldfordtractors.com/rep.htm#q15

If your hub is bad, all else fails.

Hi Eriklane I am into that arae on my rebuild right now and it sounds like your leaky side might not have the correct amount of shims that keep the axle tight and if the axle torque is not tight enough supposedly it will always leak. I had on that was easy to get the hub off and the other was really tight and I had to chisel the axle nut to get it off. If theone you have leaking was easy to dis,amtle it might be that it isn t tight enough but man don t use me for a real know something person. I am just going bt the book er actually the computer and Yesterdays Tractor maint. links on the web site for the 8n. I do know that both my drums came off, one easy and one hard , with the hub still attached with the screws they said remove which I did not. I suspect I should be shimming mine but can t right now and will later but do not plan on any hard work with the tractor so it eill be OK for now and I can get that done later. I did the bolt drain on mine also and it stopped leaking The oil level is slightly below the dip stick and won t be showing on the stick if enough drained out. About 1 gal drained out of mine before it stopped. I checked the levelwith a small piece of wire and found the level just under the stick end. I hope this helps and maybe if you got it tight enough it would stop leaking. I am gonna sure put the torque on mine qhwn I close them up and hope it stays dry. Later Devious

"Mine is nice and tight and the ends are flush"

The end of the axle spline should not be "flush" with the hub outer flange or face. The end of the axle flange should be inboard of the bub face.

Zane