PTO Guard

Now that I have an ORC from our host here, I was wondering what people do to cover it when your not mowing, etc. Or, do you drive the roll pin out after each use?

The stock threaded in protection is really nice. Turning off the PTO isn't really an option since you loose the lift. Neither is shutting off the engine everytime I need to get off the tractor. I have a FEL so I need to enter/exit off the back.

Thanks for all of the info so far. My 2n is running really good now.

I've seen guards fabbed out of PVC pipe; looks like a more trouble than they are worth, IMHO.

I just recognize that some things in life are inherently dangerous & act accordingly.

If you do not have anything attached to the 3-point, turn the PTO off.

Never, ever get behind the tractor w/ the PTO engaged.

I don't turn it off when I stop to open a gate (I do have emergency brakes) but I always do when hooking up an implement. When I stop to open a gate w/ the mower attached, I do turn the PTO off, but not the engine.

You are wise to recognize the danger, but there is not much else you can do.
50 Tips

as bruce said... over on another board there is a thread showing one made out of sewer plastic pipe..

looks like they removed the 4 bolts holdignthe pto in, added studs, then double nuts.. one set to hol dthe pto in, then another to hold the flange on.. then just thread a cap over it to cover..

soundguy

ck1.......yeah, thats a 4"-toilet metal rimmed toilet flange. Go shopping. Eazy to adapt. Make cap asby 6-1/2" long ......Dell

Having an ORC (Over Running Clutch) on the PTO shaft for brush hogging adds a good measure of safety. Having that additional length and girth of the ORC down there in the open air spinning at 540 RPM’s with fingers, arms, shoelaces, sleeves and the like in the way is not safe. I posted the question the other day about ORC covers and received a number of great responses including some ideas for building such a cover from “Crem” and “Heybusdriver”. Both of those guys built one out of steel and did a fine job of it. Thanks much guys. Unfortunately, I do not own a welder and having it done just isn’t as much fun as doing it yourself. I decided to make one out of 4 inch, schedule 40 ABS sewer pipe. There is something poetic about having a chunk of sewer pipe hanging off the rear of The Beast!

I first made some studs to replace the bolts that hold the limit chain brackets out of 7/16 – 14 all thread. I used 2 jam nuts to provide a spacer between the limit chain bracket and a 4-inch ABS “Johnny ring” flange. The flange bolt pattern is very close to the 4-¼ inch pattern on the limit chain brackets, I just needed to drill out the flange to accept the 7/16 studs. I then glued a male threaded connector on the Johnny ring and cut a short length of pipe and put a cap on it to allow for easy removal.

Now I can keep the ORC in place while using other implements without the worry that someone can get caught up in it.

[size=18:34ff87018c][b:34ff87018c]However, this thing is made of plastic! For your set of circumstances, I would not recommend doing it my way [/b:34ff87018c][/size:34ff87018c]since you or anyone using your tractor getting on from the rear might have the tendency to use it as a step. I’m not sure the cover & plastic Johnny ring would hold the weight & it would be a disaster if it broke. The better thing for your situation is to get an ORC that slips on and locks in place with a button on the side.

Some folks have said my cover would be a pita to remove every time you needed to access the grease fittings or drive the pin out. I have found it pretty simple to just back out the 4 nuts & slip it off.

I like your design.

I think it would be easy to manufacture in metal.

take a piece of 1/4" plate.. cut it circular.. cut a hole int he middle.. thus leaving you a flange.

get some 4" pipe and weld to it.. using a cap and threaded sections. Many old time hardware stores will still thread pipe for you.

if you can't find anyone to thread 4" pipe, then tackle it a tad differently. weld some tabs on that a section of 4" terminated pipe will slide on, then drill those for keeper bolts.

won't be as fast as the screw on.. but a couple wrench turns and you have a 4" metal step. could even weld a piece of flat to the top and use it as a step.

soundguy

Here is a discussion on Tractor Talk on having ORC protection. Click the link below
Link

Here is a metal cover that I built for my Ferguson. It is made of 4" pipe and I found out that the 4" electrical is better because there is a larger inside diameter and you can get scraps from an electrical contractor. You have to cut the tabs and drill holes and then mount them to the tractor with the bolts. Position the 4" pipe in place and tack weld it. Then you can take it off and weld it up. The end removable cover is 2" pipe and I welded a cap on the end. For the end of the 4" pipe where the 2" screws on I used a plasma torch to cut out a circle and an inside hole for the shaft. I cut a 1/2" sliver off of a 2" pipe coupling and welded that to the plate in order to screw the end cap on. I sold a few of these and then decided that it wasn't worth the liability risk and it isn't a five minute job either. If you want to make one and have any questions send me an email. The length of the 4" pipe is fairly critical so that you clear the ORC but are not too long so that the PTO will not attach.