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1950-8N- Firing Order

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Joe Diddley

05-05-2010 23:03:09

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I was wondering what the firing order is on the 1950-8N. The Ford manual doesn't give much details on that. Also, does the distributor wire connect to the pos. or neg. side of the coil. Mine doesn't match the looks of the original diagrams.

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Joe Diddley

05-10-2010 12:37:36

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 Re: 1950-8N- Firing Order in reply to Joe Diddley, 05-05-2010 23:03:09  
I took the coil off and had it checked out. I was dead. I put another one on for twenty bucks and it fired right up!

I appreciated all who responded to help me out. I am a novice at the tractor game.

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05-06-2010 07:52:27

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 Re: 1950-8N- Firing Order in reply to Joe Diddley, 05-05-2010 23:03:09  
6 or 12 volt?? If it has an alternator on it then it should most likely be a - ground system so then the coil wire going to the distributor should also be - side of it if it is a side mount distributor that is if front mount you can not change that. Or in other words you should when you post fill in a few blanks so we do not have to guess as much to answer you the best we can. Or as Dell says we can not read minds.

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Joe Diddley

05-06-2010 20:52:40

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 Re: 1950-8N- Firing Order in reply to old, 05-06-2010 07:52:27  
This tractor is in it's original condition,being a 6-volt, positive ground. The manual I have is very vage,not many pictures or diagrams. I played with the order today,changed points,condensor,rotor & cap. Wouldn't fire! Checked and set the timing to 4 degrees BTDC. Tried again nothing. Pulled #4 plug and attached the boot to spark on engine block and nothing. I'm going to assume it's a bad coil and replace it.

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Bruce (VA)

05-07-2010 05:27:43

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 Re: 1950-8N- Firing Order in reply to Joe Diddley, 05-06-2010 20:52:40  
" I'm going to assume it's a bad coil and replace it. "

And you will be wasting your time & money. Diagnose the problem before you start replacing parts. You don't have a parts problem, you have a troubleshooting problem.

There are two schools of thought when it comes to getting a non-running tractor to start. One way is to just start replacing every part you can get to until it starts or you run out of money. The other way is to take a step-by-step approach to solving the problem, working from most likely to least likely. The trick to fixing these tractors (or trouble shooting any piece of equipment) is to be systematic about it. You need to isolate the problem step by step and work from most likely to least likely. You have solved half the problem by determining it is a spark problem. That doesnít mean you need to replace all of the electrical parts on the tractor! :)

Coil problems are difficult to diagnose. For starters, round coils are pretty robust & square coils arenít (because of the difference in insulation used), but neither one will hold up to a poorly done 12v conversion that allows too much current to the coil or leaving the key on (see tip # 38). Too much current creates heat which melts the insulation. Insufficient resistance in a 12v conversion will do the same thing. Rarely do coils just ďgo bad.Ē

There are a few ways to see if a coil is bad, but itís not possible to determine if a coil is good w/o some expensive testing equipment. If you detect a dead short or high resistance in the coil w/ an ohm meter, itís bad. If itís cracked, itís bad. If a sidemount coil w/ battery voltage to the primary will not jump a ľĒ gap from the secondary wire to the block, itís bad. But, here is the hard part: even if you do not detect a short, even if it will produce a spark, even if itís not cracked, that doesnít mean the coil will work when itís hot & under a load. So, itís a process of elimination. If the tractor starts & runs fine for 30 minutes or an hour then cuts off & refuses to re-start, and you checked for spark at the plugs & it had no spark at all, AND you have the correct voltage at the coil thatís a good sign that you have a bad coil. Let it cool off, restart it & if you have a good spark, odds are itís a bad coil. But, even then, you might end up w/ a spare coil on the shelf!

Bottom line.......coils do go bad, but I'll venture a guess that 75% of new N coils sold today are sold to folks who do not understand how to diagnose a poor spark problem or how a coil works. So, for those who donít know any better, in a no spark situation the first suspect is usually the coilÖÖand, more often than not, it isnít the problem.

Get your meter out. The ignition circuit goes from the battery to the terminal block then to the switch then to the coil then by the primary (little) wire on the coil to the points. Trace the circuit.

Do you have voltage across the points when they are open? Verify the gap on the points at .025. Then, run a new clean dollar bill through them. New points sometimes have a residue & old points can corrode, or get grease from the distributor cam on them. Or, you could have used a dirty feeler gauge. (I always spray mine off w/ contact cleaner.) Make sure you have voltage across the points, as in past the insulator on the side of the distributor. That is a very common failure point on sidemounts & often hard to find because it is usually an intermittent short. (If you find the short there, the Master Parts catalog lists everything you need on page 154. You can make the strip and you could also make the insulators as well. But, somethings are just easier & in the long run cheaper to buy. Get the strip, 12209, screw 350032-S, 12233 bushing & 12234 insulator & just replace it all.)If you just replaced the rotor & lost spark, put the old one back in. Check continuity on the secondary coil wire. Make sure it is firmly seated in both the cap & the coil. In fact, replace it temporarily w/ a plug wire.

Post back w/ results; I'll be interested in what the problem was.

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05-06-2010 21:31:06

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 Re: 1950-8N- Firing Order in reply to Joe Diddley, 05-06-2010 20:52:40  
But see again you do not fill in the needed blanks. Yes now I/we know it is 6 volts so it should be + ground so the + side of the coil goes to the distributor but the one big thing you do not tell us is. Is it front or a side mount distributor?? In 1950 it could be either one since in 1950 the early ones where front mounts and a 5 year old could get the firing order correct on them since it has that on the caps but if side mount then that is not as simple. Sorry I can not read your mind or see from your eyes

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05-06-2010 07:30:02

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 Re: 1950-8N- Firing Order in reply to Joe Diddley, 05-05-2010 23:03:09  
firing order is 1-2-4-3 one being at radiator.If yours is not in the same holes in cap as shown dist has probably been removed and reinstalled out of time,if its a side mount. then someone moved wires to compensate.cant do this with a front mount as they only install one could change it to match ,by pulling dist and resetting initial timing.or you could leave it be if it runs wont hurt anything just make it harder to trouble shoot maybe.

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05-05-2010 23:16:41

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 Re: 1950-8N- Firing Order in reply to Joe Diddley, 05-05-2010 23:03:09  
ALL 9N, 2N, 8n fire 1-2-4-3.

You apparently have late 1950 8N with a side-mount distributor?

If as-original (+) ground, wire from ignition switch goes to coil's (-) terminal.

If it has been changesdver to (-) ground, wire from ignition switch goes to coil's (+) terminal.

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